Hi Guys,
Newbie/Novice mechanic here (got an experienced Ford Guy helping me).
We have a '72 390 (w/65K miles) on an engine stand that will be going into my '72 F350.
We're NOT doing a major rebuild on it, or anything like that ($).
What we are doing is:
Replacing the Stock 2 barrel with a Holley 500CFM 2 barrel.
Long Tube Headers
Getting Distributor re-curved for Low - Mid range Power (Torque) and converting the Stock Distributor to Pertronix (swapping out points).
New Plug Wires & Plugs. Nothing too crazy. Just want a solid running engine for my "new" Farm Truck.
HOWEVER......Some of the Pros on here, and other forums have warned about how the Stock Timing Chain can be worn out, and have slop in it.
I'd hate to put it back with that being the case.
I've seen where guys are installing the Double Chain set up - making it nice & tight - makes sense to me.
How difficult of a procedure is this?
I viewed some videos, and was thinking - when we yank the Distributor, we'll things set at TDC.
That would be a good time to set the new Timing Gear/Chain set in, and everything would be at TDC.
Is there a Timing Chain Set that is best/easiest to install?
What other parts (if any) would need to be replaced at the same time?
Any special tools needed?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!

 

You can get an idea of how sloppy the timing chain has gotten, but the miles are relatively low to have concern. Rotate the crank in one direction to where the distributor rotor starts to move, then rotate in the opposite direction and note how much crank roatation there was before rotor motion starts.
The difference is how much slack there is from chain wear. My guesstimation is that with reasonable oil changes the chain should last over 200k, and not have much noticeable slop until about 100k from where you are. Of course each will have its own wear pattern that varies somewhat.
You would have to remove accessories, the front crank pulley(likely need a puller), socket to fit the crank bolt. Timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, thermostat housing gasket, a length of heater hose for the water pump to intake gap, and a timing cover crankshaft seal. I would clean the pulley seal area, and use crocus cloth to lessen the seal wear groove. I would use the seal to center the cover on the crankshaft unless you have a tool to align the cover.
tom

 

I'd LOVE to discover this was someplace I didn't need to go.
I'll try doing what you said - when we get in there.
Thanks!

 

If the engine is on a stand, then yes, this is a no brainer to do. I am not sure of your engine, but many had plastic covered timing sprockets to keep the chain noise down. They notoriously wore out. You do not need a double roller timing chain, but I would put in a new all steel replacement set.

And since you asked.... I would also drop in new rod and crank bearings if the crank is in good shape. Also probably rings as well (after a quick dingleball hone), and perhaps an oil pump. These things are relatively cheap and it is the time do do this when the engine is out. None of this is difficult and does not require anything more "special" than a torque wrench. This would facilitate all new gaskets too, which IMHO is mandatory.

The heads are likely not setup for unleaded gas, they would not have been from the factory if truly from a '72, so that would be my biggest concern of all; the requirement of hardened exhaust valve seats. How many of those 65,000 miles were racked up on unleaded fuel? Heads would have to go to a machine shop for this. You can use a lead additive, I don't suggest it, but some do. If you don't plan to drive it much then that might be acceptable. But since you are adding headers, carb, and Pertronix (I prefer the Ford Duraspark ignition myself), at least, this suggests this is to be driven.

Good luck.

 

Thank You very much!
This will be a "Low Miles" Truck throughout the Spring/Summer months.
It may be driven 1K - 2K miles at most.
I ABSOLUTELY Promise that NEXT WINTER when the Farm Truck is Idle - in the Garage.....I'm definitely going to give it a complete once over.
A buddy of mine has an Automotive Machine Shop - said he'd do the heads for $500 (Hardened Seats. etc.).
The guy is a real Pro. He's been building race engines forever (mostly GM - but he does FE's, too).
Funny thing - he and I were talking awhile back - he's doing a 428CJ for a guy.
He told me that it said 352 on the block. I told him, Yeah, I knew that.

YOU GUYS ON HERE ARE THE BEST!
Thanks So Much.
I'm Learning & Getting New Ideas every day!

 

If your engine truly does have only 65K mile on it, it shouldn't need anything. The only thing you need to do is remove the oil pan without turning the engine upside down and see what is in the bottom of it. If the engine has been making metal or pieces are coming off of the timing chain, there will be evidence of it there. You can check the slack in the timing chain by going thru where the fuel pump mounts to the timing cover 1/2-inch max deflection. As far as the valve seats go Ford began induction hardening valve seats in 1972 and 73 by 74 all were hardened. But with a stock engine with the compression ratio that engine has, you don't have to worry about the valve seats. Valve seat recession is caused by extremely high exhaust gas temps that cause micro welding of the valve to the seat. I doubt you will ever experience that. I took a 352 apart that had 160,000 miles on it there was no valve seat recession just normal wear.

 

Thanks!
You have a '65 F100?
I love those Trucks!