My 351M problems
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
My 351M problems
A stock replacement timing set on an RV cam is fine isn't it, I know factory cams were retarded 4 degrees, but was it the grind, or due to the timing set. If I put the stock timing gears on a RV cam, it's not going to be retarded is it?
I replaced the pitiful Holley with a Carter AFB, has the small 16-241 metering rods, I may need to upgrade, has an Edelbrock intake. It doesn't feel like it's running like it should, I believe it should be performing better. I added an MSD Blaster coil to the Dura spark ign, has a new electronic ign box, but the old distributor. I'm thinking about either replacing the distributor with a new one, or upgrade to the HEI setup.
We can't seem to find the timing marks, I painted the damper and it seems my highting the numbers has disappeared, it's set by ear. Now, when set a bit high, it's a little drag at start up, but blew a flame up the carb when you stab the throttle. It's turned back, but still doesn't feel like it's really improving. Could the pick up in the distributor be operating poorly, or vac advance malfunction? It's idled a little higher than normal but almost feels like it's going to quit when in gear (automatic).
I replaced the pitiful Holley with a Carter AFB, has the small 16-241 metering rods, I may need to upgrade, has an Edelbrock intake. It doesn't feel like it's running like it should, I believe it should be performing better. I added an MSD Blaster coil to the Dura spark ign, has a new electronic ign box, but the old distributor. I'm thinking about either replacing the distributor with a new one, or upgrade to the HEI setup.
We can't seem to find the timing marks, I painted the damper and it seems my highting the numbers has disappeared, it's set by ear. Now, when set a bit high, it's a little drag at start up, but blew a flame up the carb when you stab the throttle. It's turned back, but still doesn't feel like it's really improving. Could the pick up in the distributor be operating poorly, or vac advance malfunction? It's idled a little higher than normal but almost feels like it's going to quit when in gear (automatic).
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,036
Likes: 137
From: Maryville
It is aftermarket, but not double roller, I can't recall the brand, I remember getting it on ebay, I was thinking about it, that's not the problem I'm sure. The engine is together people, hint: the entire second paragraph, I think you're missing it. We pulled it down and had a machine shop turn the crank and replace the cam bearings. I put in a non double roller timing set when reassembling it, if I go back it'll get a gear drive but I'm not planning on doing it for some time. I'm trying to get it smooth and get the power out, I'm not feeling it, it's more than a timing set.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: near pittsburgh pa
Always good to degree a cam, this will verify cam timing! Might want to check into gear drive before doing that. Most of the hype is the sound, not really a bid-banger.
Your timing problems may be in the damper, they are known for slipping. Pull your plugs and find top dead center, check timing mark on damper. Good Luck
Your timing problems may be in the damper, they are known for slipping. Pull your plugs and find top dead center, check timing mark on damper. Good Luck
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
Yeah, we've pulled it up to TDC a few times, so the distributor is in the ball park.
Today it refused to fire, wasn't cranking great, but this time is the battery, guess it's about done, went down on it's own, so it was recharged back to full, now it's going. I don't have a short or draw on it, this just started, the cold sure zaps one.
Wife put the throttle/kickdown adapter on it today, but wasn't able to fire it up, battery low and spark issue. Tomorrow hopefully she'll have time to pop the distributor cap, check it for corrosion, was new.
Today it refused to fire, wasn't cranking great, but this time is the battery, guess it's about done, went down on it's own, so it was recharged back to full, now it's going. I don't have a short or draw on it, this just started, the cold sure zaps one.
Wife put the throttle/kickdown adapter on it today, but wasn't able to fire it up, battery low and spark issue. Tomorrow hopefully she'll have time to pop the distributor cap, check it for corrosion, was new.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
Intake is tight, no leaks there, I bought caps to neatly plug up the unused port tree to the rear, and the few on the cab are correctly placed, it's down tight. The carb has the leanest meters available, guy who I got it from told me it'd be a good idea to get some larger replacements. The small front port is currently on the vac advance, I swore it's the correct location, guess when it's finally running again, it needs to be checked out. After putting the carb on, for the first time it started and ran, no constant quitting cold, no manual choke, it's automatic now. The difference from now than then is the distributor is turned back a bit, felt too advanced, but it was running then. I either need to attempt to charge this battery again, or replace it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
Loose coil wire, now I need to get new plugs in, I'm positive the others are fouled out from the flooding Holley.
Can anyone tell me what metering rods to put in this Carter, I'm positive the #16-241's are too small?
Can anyone tell me what metering rods to put in this Carter, I'm positive the #16-241's are too small?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Your wife works on your rig with you! Hot damn!! My wife couldn't tell ya the difference between a carb and a distributor.
It may be quite a chore for you getting that setup to work right. The stock set-up is fugured to run with all the stock stuff on it. When you start dickin' with stuff, things can get out of whack.
I agree, save up for a new distributor-buzz box set-up, and use the same brand. MSD has the stuff you need, its easy to install with little to no guess work right out of the box.
I do not believe you need to retard or advance the new cam. I didn't with my new cam, and it's fine. I'd just leave it at '0' vs 4 degrees advanced or retarded.
It may be quite a chore for you getting that setup to work right. The stock set-up is fugured to run with all the stock stuff on it. When you start dickin' with stuff, things can get out of whack.
I agree, save up for a new distributor-buzz box set-up, and use the same brand. MSD has the stuff you need, its easy to install with little to no guess work right out of the box.
I do not believe you need to retard or advance the new cam. I didn't with my new cam, and it's fine. I'd just leave it at '0' vs 4 degrees advanced or retarded.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
I'm paralized, so I'm in a wheelchair, reaching the engine in the lifted truck is impossible, last time I worked on it, I had it on the stand.
I saw a HEI distributor on ebay, they had them at a buy now for $90, doubt anyone else can match that. I bought a new ign box last year when we reinstalled the engine, the other one was a hack job, installed my MSD Blaster II coil that I was saving. I see the HEI is pretty much close to the MSD or Mallory, so what is the best one, I do like the simplicity of the HEI system.
It was running with the intake before the rebuild, but had a stock cam, after the rebuild I drove it, felt sluggish, 4 barrel wasn't opening. I put a rebuild kit in the carb, replaced the vacuum secondary springs by stepping them down 2 grades, started flooding like crazy, the floats were properly wet set, I just had to replace the Holley. My Edelbrock AFB has a small metering rod setup #16-241, I'm sure they are too small, and the plugs are likely to be fouled out, due to the previous flooding, the oil was reaking of the gas smell. Couldn't the small jet/metering rods, along with fouled out plugs be causing my problems?
I saw a HEI distributor on ebay, they had them at a buy now for $90, doubt anyone else can match that. I bought a new ign box last year when we reinstalled the engine, the other one was a hack job, installed my MSD Blaster II coil that I was saving. I see the HEI is pretty much close to the MSD or Mallory, so what is the best one, I do like the simplicity of the HEI system.
It was running with the intake before the rebuild, but had a stock cam, after the rebuild I drove it, felt sluggish, 4 barrel wasn't opening. I put a rebuild kit in the carb, replaced the vacuum secondary springs by stepping them down 2 grades, started flooding like crazy, the floats were properly wet set, I just had to replace the Holley. My Edelbrock AFB has a small metering rod setup #16-241, I'm sure they are too small, and the plugs are likely to be fouled out, due to the previous flooding, the oil was reaking of the gas smell. Couldn't the small jet/metering rods, along with fouled out plugs be causing my problems?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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I'm not sure what the #16-241's are, but if I were to assume that you have a 650cfm Edelbrock, (recommended for a 351) any more than 650cfm will be too much carb for the engine. I recommend rods 1456 (073 x 047).
Maybe this chart will help. It's for a Edlebrock 1406. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_1406.html
Maybe this chart will help. It's for a Edlebrock 1406. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_1406.html