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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Gauges and general engine info

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Old Jan 22, 2026 | 07:08 PM
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Gauges and general engine info

Hey guys- in the video is new to me 68 , 390 engine.
first run after 30 years. Any tips in regards to what I can do to get it back as much as possible? Do I hear what sounds like sticky lifter?
mind you I haven’t messed with timing yet, or carb adjustment. I get a 20 ish with the vac gauge so far.
as far as gauges go I got nothing on the cluster from fuel to oil pressure- where would you guys start? Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2026 | 08:23 PM
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You might put some mystery oil in there to see if that will help with that tick.

I’ve been told that FE engines do not like to sit and are known to bend rods or have lifter issues after a long sit. I can’t attest to that.

I would initially check connections on the engine as well as the gauge cluster.

30 years is a long time to sit and not have a mouse chew on something.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2026 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by moto_hero
You might put some mystery oil in there to see if that will help with that tick.

I’ve been told that FE engines do not like to sit and are known to bend rods or have lifter issues after a long sit. I can’t attest to that.

I would initially check connections on the engine as well as the gauge cluster.

30 years is a long time to sit and not have a mouse chew on something.
definitely will check, to me it looks a bit weird every gauge is not working.. I also don’t get any power to the cables using a test light, not the oil gauge wire to the sender and not to the power cable for the gas gauge… so maybe there is a part on the cluster that control them all?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2026 | 09:05 PM
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On my 70 f250, after I built a 390 for it, I let it set for about 22 years. My dad wanted to crank the engine over when I wanted to get it ready to go on the road. We bent all the intake push rods. I dont have anything that has been sitting that long anymore but I wouldnt do it again. Not without checking some things first anyway.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Daniel Yosef
definitely will check, to me it looks a bit weird every gauge is not working.. I also don’t get any power to the cables using a test light, not the oil gauge wire to the sender and not to the power cable for the gas gauge… so maybe there is a part on the cluster that control them all?

There isn’t a lot of fuses on these trucks so I would say it’s likely something disconnected.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 1browski
On my 70 f250, after I built a 390 for it, I let it set for about 22 years. My dad wanted to crank the engine over when I wanted to get it ready to go on the road. We bent all the intake push rods. I dont have anything that has been sitting that long anymore but I wouldnt do it again. Not without checking some things first anyway.
Thats what I’ve heard happening.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by moto_hero
There isn’t a lot of fuses on these trucks so I would say it’s likely something disconnected.
I'd agree with this wholeheartedly. I have a bunch of corrosion on my fuse panel and fuses that I had to clean up, and moved some of the electrical to a new blade style fuse panel because it was easier than trying to get the older fuse box to work. First thing I'd do with the electrical is use the continuity function on a multimeter to check the fuses and check the condition of the terminals on the panel.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 05:33 PM
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So I checked oil pressure, I get about 12-15 on idle. Is it anything to work with? Reviving prob 45 ish
also , the distributor just won’t budge trying to time the engine, loosen the bolt and everything. Any help?
thank you
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Daniel Yosef
So I checked oil pressure, I get about 12-15 on idle. Is it anything to work with? Reviving prob 45 ish
also , the distributor just won’t budge trying to time the engine, loosen the bolt and everything. Any help?
thank you
what weight oil did you use? Marvel mystery oil would be a good idea to add.
the distributor thing is very common.
what I have done is heat the base of the dizzy real well and then soak it with Kroil and repeat the process as needed. A guy could use automatic trans fluid too or your favorite penitent.
what has happened is the distributor has corroded to the intake, they are dissimilar metals thus causing corrosion.
once it starts to loosen you just have to work it back and forth.
Jeff
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by whitey68
what weight oil did you use? Marvel mystery oil would be a good idea to add.
the distributor thing is very common.
what I have done is heat the base of the dizzy real well and then soak it with Kroil and repeat the process as needed. A guy could use automatic trans fluid too or your favorite penitent.
what has happened is the distributor has corroded to the intake, they are dissimilar metals thus causing corrosion.
once it starts to loosen you just have to work it back and forth.
Jeff
thanks for the response !
what do you think about the oil pressure stats? Too low? Fine?
also, tick might be timing fix?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Daniel Yosef
thanks for the response !
what do you think about the oil pressure stats? Too low? Fine?
also, tick might be timing fix?
Oil pressure was why i asked what weight oil you used, 12-15 at idle will work, rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm.
tick is not from timing, is it internal, is it an exhaust manifold leak?
if it's internal could be a lifter hanging up/sticking thats where the Marvel's mystery oil comes in, great for freeing up sticking valve trains.
how much have you ran this engine that sat for so long?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by whitey68
Oil pressure was why i asked what weight oil you used, 12-15 at idle will work, rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm.
tick is not from timing, is it internal, is it an exhaust manifold leak?
if it's internal could be a lifter hanging up/sticking thats where the Marvel's mystery oil comes in, great for freeing up sticking valve trains.
how much have you ran this engine that sat for so long?

manifold has a leak yes. But I think the tick is from valve cover area.. I took the cover off and cranked, all lifters move perfectly fine. Can’t see the issue there. Can I be delusional and it’s just the manifold leaking bad?
engine started first time yesterday , did 2-3 10 min cycles on idle.
gonna let the marvel oil sit for a day now
 
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 05:13 PM
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So I let things soak in marvel mystery oil , cleaned up a lot of junk and have a new carb put on.
here’s a video from today, what you guys think? Sounds improved? Oil pressure around 20-25 now
can get my idle screw to affect rpms tho.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 05:28 PM
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No video posted, keep letting it run varying the throttle. A short drive might be good if possible,
nothing fast just going through the gears.
The multiple heat cycles will help as well, but its the cleaning and freeing up of the valve train plus the good carb thats helping.
I would add some seafoam to the fuel now that you are running it more.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2026 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by whitey68
No video posted, keep letting it run varying the throttle. A short drive might be good if possible,
nothing fast just going through the gears.
The multiple heat cycles will help as well, but its the cleaning and freeing up of the valve train plus the good carb thats helping.
I would add some seafoam to the fuel now that you are running it more.

posted now!
 
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