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I'm now looking for advice on piston rings. The ones on our FE360 are OEM (so cast iron). We're prepping to put a cross hatch on the cylinder which are amazingly true and round (fantastic news). I understand that typical advice is to replace the rings with the same type (cast) as we're reusing the OEM pistons. We will measure to see if (or how much) we need to go oversize once honing is complete but I just wanted to hear from y'all regarding using cast, OEM style rings.
You need to know what type, grit of a finish stone the particular piston ring your using needs in order to seat correctly. Check bores with a bore gage reading in .0001 for straight and round.
Thanks fellas! Yes, I've been searching the youtube as we do and found a channel called Uncle Tony's Garage. He seems super knowledgable and has tons of experience. His video here
covers a lot of info and it fits with what I have learned elsewhere. The rings that @Rubiranch mentions above are these type... I'm just hoping someone will have done this before me and chime in. Looks like a 220 grit is suitable for cast rings but I'd like to confirm!
I agree too on the checking for roundness Mark A. My son is a machinist and has done this with our 360 (using his gauges) and have confirmed the trueness.
What you're really trying to do when you glaze break the cylinder is put in the RvK that has been worn away to allow you to use the plateau finish that was created by the old ring yet with valleys to hold the oil. This is why a 220 vitrified or a 320 diamond stone can be used because it isn't really making a big effect on the Rk or the Rpk in the cylinder. Just a few strokes is plenty. You're not going to change the geometry of the cylinder to any real degree with a flex or ball hone.
I assume you have not taken the pistons out of your old 360 yet, nor looked at the bores or cut the ring ridge?
I say that because you said you were going to re use the original pistons
Like the above post mentions about measuring the cylinders with a bore taper gauge on one tenth of a thou increment
I think you should plan on a bore job and new pistons
I've cut many a ring ridge out of those old 360 and 390 FE motors
Yours will have a big one by now and you know what that means?
The cylinders will be egg shaped and no ring will seal properly
That is precisely why they make bore taper gauges in the first place
I assume you have not taken the pistons out of your old 360 yet, nor looked at the bores or cut the ring ridge?
I say that because you said you were going to re use the original pistons
Like the above post mentions about measuring the cylinders with a bore taper gauge on one tenth of a thou increment
I think you should plan on a bore job and new pistons
I've cut many a ring ridge out of those old 360 and 390 FE motors
Yours will have a big one by now and you know what that means?
The cylinders will be egg shaped and no ring will seal properly
That is precisely why they make bore taper gauges in the first place
You can't really say what the condition of the cylinders are without actually seeing them in person and measuring them so who knows. Taper is usually the worst type of bore distortion, not so much for sealing but just because it tends to make the ring wear out quickly. How much can you have? I'd say if it is less than about .004 it'll probably work pretty well for quite a long time. Out of round if it is out of round from top to bottom doesn't really hurt much.
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