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About 5 years ago, I installed a completely new braking system (rear drums, cylinders, hose, hardline, and front disc kit, booster, master, combo valve, hose, hardline) on my ‘72 F100 2WD 429/C6 project truck. I test drove it to bed the brakes and it’s been parked in the driveway ever since. Since that time, I have temporarily removed some engine bits as well as the steering box and booster/master in order to install a new tilt column, but the project stalled about 3 years ago.
Recently, the problem is when I attempted to push the truck, the front wheels wouldn’t roll. I jacked it up front and rear to investigate and nothing seemed amiss. I figured the disc pads were clamped under pressure so I removed the brake hose at the calipers and removed bleeder screws, and some fluid spilled out. Then manually pushed the outer brake pad away from the rotors causing some more fluid to pour out, but the wheels still won’t roll. There’s a complete coating of surface rust on the new rotors but could that really prevent the wheels from spinning?
Yes rust will keep them from turning. Going to have to break the bond between the pads and rotors before it will turn. I live in a high humidity area and my brakes rust to the rotors if it sits too long between trips. Soon as I put it in reverse they squeak and scrape till they get cleaned off.
Take a soft head hammer and hit the pads and rotors may break them loose. Or drag the truck with another to turn the wheels.
If you do the front go around the large cross member under the engine. On the rear I would place it near the leaf spring mount on the axle, be careful of the brake lines. Try not to jerk if you can.
Last year I had the clutch rust/stick on my tractor (Ford 2600), could not disengage the clutch. So I was starting in gear going front and backwards, standing on the brakes. Took me many many tries to get it to break loose. The old 2600 has mechanical brakes which are useless on trying to load the clutch to beak it loose.
Okay, I appreciate your input! And I’m a city slicker so I know nothing about tractors, but I’m betting your old rig would still make quick work of dragging my rusty brakes free. Haha
You could always jack up a wheel and put a breaker bar on one of the lugs, that should get it moving a little if you don't feel like dragging it around with another vehicle.
Thanks, sounds like a plan. I’ll jack it up this weekend and try a combination of lead hammering while someone’s working the breaker bar to shock things loose.
Btw, the pads are brand new, any chance I could ruin them by spraying brake cleaner on the rotor/pads?
Break cleaner is a solvent for cleaning and is used to remove the oil from new parts. But since we never clean new pads, I don't know if it will or not. My gut feeling is that it is safe to use but I don't see it helping here. You would want a penetrating oil to creep between the pads and rotors which is oil, not good. I'm trying to recall if the rotors are separate from the hubs. If so taking the wheel off would allow the rotor to move some if hit, giving it wiggle room.
So… I took the wheels off and, of course, there was a full dusting of rust, but surprisingly the rotors broke free and rotated rather easily. I scotchpadded off a healthy layer of crud until things spun freely. Then bolted up a wheel and everything came to a screeching halt again. Apparently these chrome smoothies do NOT fit my front disc brake kit!
In hindsight, I had swapped the smoothies on last summer, but never drove/rolled the truck with them on, so I had no idea things were binding. I’ll be taking a closer look with a grinder in hand to hopefully massage things into place.
Maybe adding some 1/4" spacers will make it clear. When I converted to disk brakes on rear they said it would clear a std 15" wheel, NOT. Adding 1/4" spacers did the trick, actually 1/8" washers was all that was needed. I have to replace the wheels on mine any way due to the front requiring 17" to clear large disk brake setup. So the spacers are just temp till I order wheels and tires.
Yeah, I have no experience with spacers, and I hear folks either love them or hate them. However, I’ve personally never met anyone that’s had a mishap, and since my truck won’t be used for off-roading, hauling, racing, or towing, spacers are a viable option. Plus, I suspect folks have used spacers for all types of applications (abuse). Thanks!
Last edited by Terry Veiga; Jan 30, 2026 at 09:41 AM.
