Is this shot?
Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 1,769
From: Western NY
Overall, that rust isn't concerning and doesn't condemn the unit. However, it might need some servicing such as points/cap/rotor/condenser, checking on the advance mechanism, a little lube here or there. Also there is the overall timing, plug wire order and so on... Let us know what you need some help with.
What causes you to look at the distributor?
What causes you to look at the distributor?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 197
Likes: 82
Overall, that rust isn't concerning and doesn't condemn the unit. However, it might need some servicing such as points/cap/rotor/condenser, checking on the advance mechanism, a little lube here or there. Also there is the overall timing, plug wire order and so on... Let us know what you need some help with.
What causes you to look at the distributor?
What causes you to look at the distributor?
I also bought the ez wire kit so I have some work to do.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 532
Others will chime in and say if it is a bad idea but take the condenser, rotor and points off and put it upside down in Evaporust or rust 911 or citric acid and washing soda. It won't damage the metal or plastic components. I would just not put it deep enough for the bearing area to be submerged.
24 hrs it will look as good as news and then spray it down with your favorite rust preventive oil like fluid film or Gibbs oil etc. I am partial to Gibbs oil for this application.
This link provides some information on Evaporust, Rust 911 and the citric acid washing soda combination. They are all chelating agents and have a PH of around 4 which is the same as a tomato so the do not eat the metal or acid etch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ust-911-a.html
If it is a rotten idea others will correct me.
24 hrs it will look as good as news and then spray it down with your favorite rust preventive oil like fluid film or Gibbs oil etc. I am partial to Gibbs oil for this application.
This link provides some information on Evaporust, Rust 911 and the citric acid washing soda combination. They are all chelating agents and have a PH of around 4 which is the same as a tomato so the do not eat the metal or acid etch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ust-911-a.html
If it is a rotten idea others will correct me.
Last edited by 8pack; Jan 13, 2026 at 02:32 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 532
Separately on removed the points and condenser and went with the Pertronix "electronic ignition " module. Plugs and play, takes 10mins.
No adjustments to be made ever and runs like a top. A little pricy (cheaper on Summit Racing) but you don't have to worry about adjusting points or humidity etc. Less to break and adjust especially on longer trips.
https://pertronixbrands.com/pages/te...hoChtwQAvD_BwE
No adjustments to be made ever and runs like a top. A little pricy (cheaper on Summit Racing) but you don't have to worry about adjusting points or humidity etc. Less to break and adjust especially on longer trips.
https://pertronixbrands.com/pages/te...hoChtwQAvD_BwE
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,670
Likes: 367
From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
There is absolutely no reason to remove the service/flash rust from the ignition components inside the distributor. They are not seen and they get replaced at the next tune-up. As already stated verify the advance mechanism is not locked up, lube the shaft, pivots (for the weights) and the cam for the rubbing block. Then send it down the road. If the OP is concerned with aesthetics he could pull the dist and clean the case and even paint it, if so inclined.
Last edited by truckeemtnfords; Jan 14, 2026 at 01:49 AM.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 268
Likes: 157
From: On a farm in Michigan
I have restored old Harley's like this for years and once cleaned up, with new points, condenser and rotor they work just fine. Of course HD doesn't use a rotor, but rest of the parts it does. Clean it up and run it.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,486
Likes: 336
From: Bakersfield, CA
My first 223 in my '56 f100 died a few years ago so I prepped a second 223 from my back yard. The dist on it had the cap on and looked clean throughout. I took it off and it spun with a little bit of drag compared to the dist on my daily driver of 12 years--this was not a surprise.
I decided to leave the second engines dist on it as I pressed it into service.
A few weeks into driving the freshened engine the timing didn't seem right. The mechanical advance was gummy and not advancing correctly. I didn't remember that from my initial inspection.
I go to turn the dist shaft and it was very tight. That was definitely new.
I was afraid this resistance might ruin the gear teeth on my cam.
I pressed my dist from engine #1 back into service and moved on.
Just because an old dist first appears to work doesn't mean it will keep going.
I decided to leave the second engines dist on it as I pressed it into service.
A few weeks into driving the freshened engine the timing didn't seem right. The mechanical advance was gummy and not advancing correctly. I didn't remember that from my initial inspection.
I go to turn the dist shaft and it was very tight. That was definitely new.
I was afraid this resistance might ruin the gear teeth on my cam.
I pressed my dist from engine #1 back into service and moved on.
Just because an old dist first appears to work doesn't mean it will keep going.
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