That's an excellent summary of what's swirling in my head. Like you, I have no brand loyalty. I have had cylinder deactivation in an old Honda Odyssey, and I bypassed it a few years ago.

It seems the PS is reliable if you add the disaster prevention kit; the gasser is reliable out of the box, but with worse economy; but the transmissions will be a bit of an unknown. Yeah, I have no interest in either cylinder deactivation or turbo gas motors.

Kind of back to where I started but this still helps to think through the options.

 

Opinions are like...

Anyway, what does reliability really mean to you? Some people need uptime, reliability means a vehicle isn't running means losing more money due to downtime than they cost to fix and they'd often happily "overpay" to fix something if it can be fixed right now vs tomorrow. Some people reliability means lower total cost of ownership, downtime is always inconvenient but the big motivator is minimizing if not eliminating repair costs.

It sounds like your description of use falls into the latter so I'm guessing reliability is less about downtime and more about repair costs. If that is true the 6.8 or 7.3 probably fit better. Not because the 6.7 will necessarily have an issue more frequently, it just has more ways to fail (like the entire turbo system and exhaust aftertreatment) and more sensitive components make it less resilient to failure-causing conditions or mistakes that the gassers more easily shrug off, like water in the fuel. When those things do fail, it's a lot more money to solve it on the 6.7 platform. Their injectors are modern miracles of engineering, not cheap. The gasser injectors are still basically the same thing in my 90's mustang and while technically different and improved, I could put a 90's injector in and it would work. If you work on your own stuff the gassers are a lot like the 60s - 90s SBF to work on. They have a pretty low skill floor to be successful taking them apart and putting them back together. If you're already a diesel tech than this is a wash as anybody who can do that with a 6.7 can also do that with a 7.3, but it's not a given the other way around. In my own circumstance where I'm comfortable working on a 6.7 the extra time and attention it takes would often drive me to just let someone else work on it, where the SBF-esque stuff is so fast and easy to work the only reason I'll take it in is warranty work.

The trans blew up in my 6.7. My 7.3 basically has the same transmission. The trans in the GMs are blowing up too, and Ram has always been known for crap transmissions. I've basically just accepted that transmission replacement is what it is no matter what platform in the 3/4 - 1 ton segment. After that when it comes to simplicity, repair costs, and power-per-displacement to give you an idea of strain the 6.8/7.3 platform wins on simplicity, repair costs, and the lowest strain. So I think it will likely give you the best chances of reliability in terms of cost over the long run, if that's what you're targeting.

 

I love boost drive dynamics and how a simple 57mm hair dryer can replace a bank of cylinders but having now put close to 60k miles on the simplest big block turbo 4, inline, single turbo, long stroke gm 2.7t and starting to throw the odd code towing and it will be evap or turbo stuff related, lose power, restart truck full boost back, etc. I just don't wanna play the maintenance game figuring out what's going on with turbo side of things and staying on top of it. The 5.0 is thee half ton motor to have, it's more efficient under load, the turbo's suck fuel, lot more heat and cooling stuff to deal with vs just having that power come from another bank of low pressure cylinders. I can put down big block power but it will certainly eat big block fuel, and I love driving it...like a blend between a 5.3 v8 and 3.0 diesel in drive dynamics but I'm over all the stuff that goes with turbo's. I'm sure the 2.7t gm will be as hard to kill as the engineers said 'one of only 2 engines they tried to kill in torture testing (seize) and they couldn't kill it' so it's built like a little tank for all those cylinder pressures etc. but as I said...it's not the block I'm going to have to deal with long term...where NA v8 will have none of that to deal with, just change the oil and keep on trucking. They are more efficient under load and I find now I'm trailering and loaded more miles than not so it will be more efficient for me now to use a v8 over that turbo 4, if empty all the time and tow infrequently then the turbo 4 is awesome, can get phenomenal economy as you stay way lower in the boost needs.

Are your goals power and speed etc.? Do you flip trucks before off warranty? Then it does not matter what way you go. If your goals are long term ownership and total cost of ownership with least downtime and lowest anxiety then na v8 is likely where you need to look and simpler the better. 5.0 is proven but big lump with the overhead camp design, 6.2 boss also like that and has good rep for reliable but the 6.8/7.3 are even simpler with pushrod and no epa systems other than cats in the exhaust that everything gas has to have anyway, non-issue. In my case with my turbo 4 it's nearly 115 hp per litre....the 6.8/7.3 are like 59 hp per liter, and the 5.0 is about 82 hp per litre.....what's doing the least output per litre displacement? I'm going opposite end of spectrum here. By all info available and my long term anxiety goals etc. the ford hd gassers are the best current bet on market imo. I research truck stuff to death for ages but to fit my own needs and desires and generally it was half tons but as said didn't take long to figure out the hd gasser game as there's only 3 options, zilla, 6.6, 6.4 (zilla just comes in two forms but same thing really). Everyone different. Bet as true light duty the gm 2.7t half ton would be the winner for that lowest total cost and long term reliable with the 5.0 ford right with it, it's the only turbo gasser I would rank, but with more work than not the 5.0 now goes to front for me as the turbo side will require more maintenance and work over time if worked all the time.

if you are considering diesel and don't actually need it and sounds like you don't, also watch a good 6.7 full delete video, they are over 900 lbs heavier than the same gas version and once you see the delete video you'll understand most of that extra weight is in emissions gear not a turbo and some exhaust manifolding, the egr block that comes off the side of the motor is like a whole *** 4 cylinder motor block, the sheer volume of sensors to unhook and that 10' long 5 gallon buck diameter section of exhaust that comes out with all the stuff going on in that thing, then def fluid tanks etc. etc. it's eye opening....you really want all that stuff? only if you need it.....935 lbs heavier....all emissions stuff....insanity to me but that's just me...

 

So you are set on a CCLB diesel. Good. The transmissions in these trucks are less problematic than the diesel engine, so you are good to go. Thread closed, Happy shopping!

 

So with such light loads that you tow, a gas would be a perfect fit. If you plan to tow 2 cars in a large trailer I would opt up for a 6.7PSD.

 

You have been following what's been going with Tundra's 3.4L V35A-FTS engine since 2022, right? I have several older Toyota products but won't touch any of the their new stuff with a 1794 ft long pole, including their new turbo 4runners and Tacos.

 

I see that 1794 ft long pole.... Errrrgh 1794 Edition... LOL

 

There are two different transmissions depending on what engine you choose: 10R100 (Torqueshift-G) or 10R140 (Torqueshift).

 

And which weight class+trim combination. most 7.3 F250s now come with the 10R100 outside of the Tremor versions.

Looking at the way it is going, I don't know if this means come 2027, would the 10R140 be further restricted from Tremors and F350s...

 

I owned two Tundras, a 2018 and a 2022. Was planning to get a 2026.

Engine was replaced on the '22 under recall even though the TT-V6 was still OK, if a little noisy, at 30,000 kms. A friend who had a 2022 Tundra was so frustrated with it, he traded it for a brand new 2024, thinking many of the early problems with the new 3rd gen would have been ironed out, most notably the engine failures. They were not. The same problems, even the same window rattles were present, and he traded that truck too. 2024s are now subject to the engine recall.

I have been a Toyota customer, and big fan of the brand, for a long, long time. I still own a 1983 Land Cruiser FJ60. But with no changes to the 2026 Tundra (the fifth model year of the third gen), with no changes to the problematic engine, no interior changes and no evidence of the many quality problems being addressed — and with a big increase in price from my 2022 LTD with TRD — it was time to try something else, at least for a few years until the Tundra gets its **** together.

Having recently factory ordered (what a concept: ordering what you want on a truck instead of being told what you're getting) and taken delivery of a 2026 F-250 Lariat crewcab with the 7.3L, I can honestly say the 250 is a vastly superior truck in terms of build quality, fit and finish, noise, vibration, harshness — and with almost three times the payload and towing capability of the Tundra — for only about $10k more. Even the ride quality, from a 3/4 ton no less, is infinitely better — the smoothness is unreal, hard to comprehend really.

Stepping on the throttle is now an exercise in pleasure instead of laggy and delayed frustration from the TT-V6, even with the replacement engine. Highway driving is quiet instead of wondering if a window is open. The exhaust note of the 7.3 is perfect, not weird. The window frames don't squeak. Getting in and out of the bed does not require a weird step. My armrest feels like a vault. The seats could not be more comfortable. The heated steering wheel gets hot. The seats + wheel warm up when I remote start, and the engine does not shut off when I open the door. I do not have to get a subscription to lock or start my truck by phone a year from now. The bed doesn't sag when I add 15 bags of Sakrete. I'm still smitten with this thing.

Sure, I miss the full, power rear window of the Tundra some days, as well as the tailgate release on the side of the brake light, but I'm having a hard time thinking of much else I miss. Maybe the fuel consumption in town. Tundra was 18-19 L/100 km, versus the 25-28 L/100 I get now, but cost of fuel is not high on my priorities. Remarkably, the 7.3L can get 13 L /100 km on the highway at 100 km/h. I know it's not a fair comparison, going from a 1/2 to 3/4 ton. I had lived with Tundra's lesser capability only because of its reliability, but when the reliability part disappeared, I was done.

No doubt the F-250 will have issues or recalls at some point, but for now it feels like the right decision on a way better truck.

 

So I just went through this whole ordeal this past year. I'll gibe you my opinion:

-Lifetime GM guy here. However, I do check everything out before making a large purchase. NOT BRAND LOYAL. The best vehicle wins.

-I was doing research on GM and started finding out little things like: EGR cooler leaks/eating motors, still have not fixed the harmonic balancer issue that busts the crankshaft, 10 speed is definitely lacking and at a minimum needs a 3600.00 valve body. So I went researching.

Ford:
Yes the scorpion still runs the CP4. At least you have cheap (ish) options. My last truck was an LML duramax that I personally did the CP3 conversion on. 400.00 and forget it. When it does go, replace it. I will be installing a disaster prevention kit...just in case. I have several friends that have high mileage 6.7L trucks (over 165K miles up to 240K miles) that have done proper filter changes and running a good additive like Archoil. Nothing trumps good maintenance. My local diesel shop swaps out the hotshots Ford CP4's every 350-400K miles. Do some fail sooner? Sure.
10R140 is pretty good after 2023 (internal strengthening) and you have some options. 1) do nothing but service every 25K miles. 2) Valve body upgrade and service every 25K miles, swap out plastic trans pan 3) buy a fully built 10R140 when yours ****s the bed. I have chosen to do option 2.

Ram:

I have a love/hate relationship with Cummins/ram/dodge. Not impressed with the 2019-2024 engine options in 1 tons (ho) due to all the engine failures. Before I retired a couple years ago my company hired a mechanical engineer from Cummins. He gave me a lot of information. I would not buy a HO truck between the years posted above.

So the 2025 came out with the new cummins design. I had to check it out. The 8 speed seems to be a solid unit but will be stupid expensive to repair or replace. I would do some research on that transmission and ZF as a whole. Good transmissions but the megatronic valve body is going to be outrageous to replace. I would also research the torque converter function and design. Tuning a 2025 or newer will be tough and I would assume a new torque converter will be needed to get any additional performance.

The warranty on 2026 10Y/100K is pretty awesome. Only good as the company honoring it. My past experiences with Dodge was not so good. With the same hydraulic lifters that were failing in the last generation cummins.....makes me wonder.

I almost purchased a Ram 3500, but in the end really came down to the devil I know. I can deal with any of "Fords" issues.

The gas motors are also a great choice in the ford brand. The 7.3L was on my short list.

I assume the Tundra was a joke. I moderate a Tundra site....no thanks. Even if you had the payload of a 3/4 ton or better, the brand has taken a "dip" to say the least.

 

We must have different defininitions of "different".

 

Can you elaborate on the valve body upgrade information you've learned?

 

My 24 f350 7.3 has been perfect for 60k miles so far. Hauling 4500lb truck camper across country 2 times. Hauling snowmobiles for hundreds of miles. Plowing my friends and family out. All I've done is change the oil and filter and air filter.

I owned 5 ford diesels 3 of them 6.7's. Never go back now I have seen and used the Godzilla.

 

Since this is a Ford enthusiast site, I will just stick to Ford 10R100/140 transmissions.

https://nextgendiesel.com/blogs/tran...lems-solutions

https://nextgendiesel.com/collection...smission-parts


You can get this information off various sites/sources.

For the general person towing lighter weight (under 12k) and doing proper maintenance intervals, these transmissions should take you outside the warranty period.

I will probably do the valve body kit, deep pan, and be happy by 10k miles. I'm at 2k miles now.