Electrical: Starting Problems
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4wd High
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 9
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Electrical: Starting Problems
Alright, ChatGPT isn't helping, so here I am. My 1979 F-150 (460) is having starting problems. For reference, I came home from college, went to start the truck, and nothing. No lights, to crank, nothing. Jumped the car, went on a solid drive (about 45-60 minutes), then parked it back home. Went to use it the next morning, and nothing. Dead as it was before.
I have tested the battery, and it is at 12.45V. sticker says 2/25
The alternator is practically brand new, replaced about a year ago.
I hooked it up to a jumper pack and went to start it. It cranked once, then rapid clicks both times I tried to start it.
The battery terminals could be cleaned which I'm doing tommorrow. And I might replace the cables and connectors themselves.
The truck has an aftermarket RetroSound radio. No external amps. Maybe a parasitic draw? (I installed the RetroSound radio using the previous power wire from another aftermarket radio installed by a previous owner.)
Honestly, I am at a loss. No idea.
I have tested the battery, and it is at 12.45V. sticker says 2/25
The alternator is practically brand new, replaced about a year ago.
I hooked it up to a jumper pack and went to start it. It cranked once, then rapid clicks both times I tried to start it.
The battery terminals could be cleaned which I'm doing tommorrow. And I might replace the cables and connectors themselves.
The truck has an aftermarket RetroSound radio. No external amps. Maybe a parasitic draw? (I installed the RetroSound radio using the previous power wire from another aftermarket radio installed by a previous owner.)
Honestly, I am at a loss. No idea.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 260
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Did you check to see if you had lights or was the battery completely dead? Have you charged up the battery to bring it to full state?
Have the battery actually load tested. Also confirm the alt is putting out. Clean all battery connections. Check for corrosion in the cables. If your crimp lugs are not good you can get corrosion inside the connection. This normally happens when terminals are replaced, not the whole cable assembly.
Have the battery actually load tested. Also confirm the alt is putting out. Clean all battery connections. Check for corrosion in the cables. If your crimp lugs are not good you can get corrosion inside the connection. This normally happens when terminals are replaced, not the whole cable assembly.
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4wd High
Joined: Sep 2021
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I tested the lights they turn on now, but when I go to start the truck, it's just one clank, then nothing. And now there is no lights at all and no crank. Very strange.
Last edited by cwjohnson1159; Dec 29, 2025 at 09:43 PM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 22
From: Lacey, WA
Hi,
As previously recommended, fully charge the battery and then take it to your local auto parts store and have it (no cost) load tested.
If the battery was ever aloud to reach 10.5VDC or below, it is considered "dead" and could/will have permanently damaged plates. In this state it may look good voltage wise with a meter but as soon as a heavy load is placed on it, it falls flat on it's face.
As previously recommended, fully charge the battery and then take it to your local auto parts store and have it (no cost) load tested.
If the battery was ever aloud to reach 10.5VDC or below, it is considered "dead" and could/will have permanently damaged plates. In this state it may look good voltage wise with a meter but as soon as a heavy load is placed on it, it falls flat on it's face.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 43
Likes: 13
As others mentioned, sounds like the battery could be cooked. Your symptoms are that of a dead battery, which is an easy solution.
Moving forward, if you cannot isolate or locate a parasitic draw, try hooking up a battery disconnect to prevent this from happening again. They are cheap and can be mounted under the seat or dash for easy access. This will prevent the battery from draining down due to janky electrical work.
Moving forward, if you cannot isolate or locate a parasitic draw, try hooking up a battery disconnect to prevent this from happening again. They are cheap and can be mounted under the seat or dash for easy access. This will prevent the battery from draining down due to janky electrical work.
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flicka426
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Sep 18, 2014 02:26 PM
