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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

EMERGENCY!!

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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 09:55 AM
  #1  
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EMERGENCY!!

1996 f150 XLT 5.8l 4x4 e4od automatic transmission

A while back my key broke off in the ignition. I had to pull over and search on my phone just to shut her off. I pulled the lower dash panel, unscrewed the ignition switch and dropped it down, then using the pin sticking out of the top I was able to turn it off. I bought a replacement but could never get it to work. It would switch too far forward and then not engage the pin once the truck started to turn it back off. Since I was very limited on funds, I just kept holding the switch and sliding the pin to turn her on and off. A couple times I got in and she wouldn't turn over at all. I found that there's a gray bracket to the left which seems to be holding the bundles of wiring harnesses in place and that part of the connector that holds it in place had snapped. Once I got it back in place she started right up. Now she won't start and I got a good look and it looks like the connectors have mostly broken. I'm stuck at the library and to make matters worse, I have no cash until the 4th of January to fix it, if even possible.

Can anybody suggest a band aid until I can fix it properly or get her started and turned off. And please, I'm a framer not a mechanic so please don't assume I know anything. Give me full instructions.
Thanks to anyone who can help,
Roman
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 10:08 AM
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Start with posting pictures of what is broken.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 10:40 AM
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This shows the broken connector circled in red.
This shows the broken connector circled in red.
2. This shows the forward connector circled in red.
2. This shows the forward connector circled in red.
3. Can I unscrew this for better access? Circled in red.
3. Can I unscrew this for better access? Circled in red.
4. Same as 3, different view. Circled in red.
4. Same as 3, different view. Circled in red.
5. This barely shows the top connectors. Hard to photograph but I believe the same as the bottom, two connectors, forward and back, all broken off, Circled in red.
5. This barely shows the top connectors. Hard to photograph but I believe the same as the bottom, two connectors, forward and back, all broken off, Circled in red.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 11:38 AM
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The gray connector that holds the wire harness bundles on the left hand side of mine broke and now it won't start. It seems like where the connector fits into the switch there's some kind of electrical connection it's not making. I still can get power for windows and radio but nothing going to the starter. If that helps.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 11:46 AM
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I’m guessing using the pin to start has quit?

And you tried squeezing it together with pliers or something while trying to start?

cheapest fix is trying to get one from junkyard.
 

Last edited by 90project5.0; Dec 27, 2025 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 11:54 AM
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The pin still works in the rearward accessory position to roll the window down. In the forward position, the dash lights come one as normal. It just doesn't send anything to the starter when I push it fully forward. When I've had problems before it seemed like maybe the gray connector screwed into the left side needed to be in the right position and it would start. I thought it pressed in to make an electrical connection but I just watched a guy on YouTube replace the switch and it just holds the wires in place. He actually remounted the switch without replacing it, he said it's a 9/32" hex head, another said 7mm.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 12:07 PM
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Those are very close in size. Have you tried it to see?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 12:08 PM
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I doubt I have either size. And the hex head screw is recessed inside the gray connector so it's not really accessible.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 12:31 PM
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Do you know anyone with a basic tool kit that can come assist you?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 12:35 PM
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No. I'm kinda on my own here. Do you think everything else on the switch would work except sending power to the starter, or would the whole switch just die? If I just tried to start it, I might get no power. But if I hold it, I can get everything but the starter.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 12:49 PM
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That contact can definitely break in them.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 01:25 PM
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Okay, I went to see if I had a socket and thought I'd try to start her. I looked at the gear shifter and it looked low, towards 3 o'clock. But the indicator said I was in Park. So I tried to shift it up, the indicator disappeared on the left side of the dash, past Park and she started right up. So when I put her in gear, the indicator was between Neutral and Drive. There's a little play in the lever, and I did tighten the bolts under the dash like a year ago. I guess I should re-tighten. Is there anything else I should look out for with this issue?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2025 | 01:28 PM
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I have had to resort to using a toggle switch to start my truck... turn the key tor run and hit the toggle switch. Might that solution work for your problem?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2025 | 09:30 PM
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If you can turn on the ignition, just not the starter, you can jump it at the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, just jump from battery + (big lug on the solenoid with the cable to the battery on it) to the trigger wire (the small connection on the solenoid) with a piece of wire or a screwdriver, and it should crank. If the solenoid is bad, jump between the two big lugs with a screwdriver. If the computer etc has power, and the truck's not in gear, then it should fire up just fine.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2025 | 11:53 AM
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I actually did get it started. It was in Reverse. The indicator said Park but I noticed the shift lever was lower than usual. When I shifted up into Park, the indicator actually disappeared on the left hand side. I had to tighten the lever last year but didn't have any Loctite so I need to do it again. Or I used the blue instead of red. I've never bought red, guess I need to upgrade.

Thanks for the response,
Roman
 
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