Code reader problems
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Code reader problems
I bought a code reader for my 88. I plugged it into the ECM hookup, followed the instructions and it didn't flash any codes? My check engine light has been flashing some lately so there must be something stored. When I turned the code rear on, my fuel pump came on and stayed on, does this sound right? I'm trying to learn about EFI and computers so I can continue to fix my own rig even though I prefer carbs for ease of adjustment. Any idea's or tips?
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Baltimore
Did you try both the key on engine off, and the key on engine running tests?? Also, did you hook up both connections? There should be a trapezoid shaped plug, and a single wire rectangular plug.
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Yup, I tried all those tests and got nothing. I'm not sure whats wrong. Somebody was at the wiring before I got the truck so I guess I will have to get out my schematic's and check it out.
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
I got some codes with the engine running only. 21, 44, 52 and 77. A lot of my emissions system is gone so that would explain one of the codes. 21 is for the engine coolant temp sensor out of range, is that for the gauge or the EFI? I just replaced the sending unit for the gauge. One of the codes was for an "open" power steering switch. According to my book this will affect idle quality, and opinions?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
The coolant temp sensor is the one for the computer, hence the code. I can't remember for sure about the powersteering pressure switch, but I think you have to give the wheel a tug and tap the brake pedal right after the engine code is blinked out. I'm not sure how you would do this with a code reader. I got the psps code a couple times the first time I pulled the codes.
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Coolant temp. code is probably from the engine not being warmed up. PS code is because you did not activate steering while in test. Check again and let us know.Also make sure connections are clean at test plug. Good luck.
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When you turn the switch "on" the fuel pumps should run and stop after a second or two. They should not run again until the "run" position is selected. If someone has been re-wiring.... 
. The temp out of range is probably also a wiring problem (short or broken wire). Does your temp guage work? The thermactor code may be from the exhaust system changes ( cat converter removed?). This may cause rough idle and poor performance. Is the oxygen sensor still there? Good luck!
. The temp out of range is probably also a wiring problem (short or broken wire). Does your temp guage work? The thermactor code may be from the exhaust system changes ( cat converter removed?). This may cause rough idle and poor performance. Is the oxygen sensor still there? Good luck!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
^ The temp guage is independent of the ECT sensor. Thermactor is from not having a TAD or TAB hooked up, but he said he already took a lot of emissions equipment off, which would explain those codes. O2 sensor would set different codes.
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I myself didn't remove any emissions crap, the previous owner did. My fuel pumps come on for a second or 2 when I put the key in the run position and then stop as they should. My 02 sensors are still there as is my cat converter. My temp guage works fines and the truck runs great but the check engine light flashes while I'm driving, mostly up a hill. I recently set the timing to 10 degrees ( I did it properly by the book and unhooked the little plug gizmo), since then my idle when warm is higher than I think it should be. I don't have a tach in my truck yet to say for sure what the rev's are. I run the 5.0 in my 63 Merc at 550-600rpm hot in gear.
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