When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, I recently got a hold of a 1980 F 250 Ranger Lariat unfortunately as you could imagine right after I bought it things started to act up the starter solenoid, went out first, so I jumped it to get it running to bring it to my house, then changed the starter solenoid, which seemed to work for a while now it’s starting to not want to crank at all again, my fuel gauge originally worked fine but has completely stopped working along with the selector switch for the tanks the temp gauge works about 90% of the time but every now and again it will act up and not want to work as well. The charge gauge is working a little too well and it seems that I have an overcharging issue. Also the blower motor is sporadic as in it will blow sometimes and other times it won’t work whenever it’s not working it will work with the key half turned
but as soon as you start the motor, the blower motor will stop working for some reason,I was wondering if anyone has any advice on where to start with troubleshooting all the electrical thanks.
Welcome to the forum. Lots to digest, so let's start with the big stuff. Before doing anything, be sure to charge that poor battery. It's very important to have a fully charged battery when doing any electrical troubleshooting. This is a very important step, so please don't skip it.
Originally Posted by 1980 bullnose ford
changed the starter solenoid, which seemed to work for a while
Make sure you installed a quality name brand. If you installed a brand like Fling Dung or Wok Hoam, do yourself a YUGE favor and get a quality starter relay.
Originally Posted by 1980 bullnose ford
now it’s starting to not want to crank at all again
Did somebody say slow-cranking starter?!!! I could cut glass with my nipples when I hear that:
Also the blower motor is sporadic as in it will blow sometimes and other times it won’t work whenever it’s not working it will work with the key half turned
At first I was going to say it sounds like a ground problem but follow what Karl said.
For grounds you should have battery to frame and to motor (v8) or top starter bolt if a 300 six.
You should also have a ground from the motor (what size you got?) to the firewall to ground the cab.
Some say a ground cable is from the firewall to the hood but if not no big deal like the others.
But as Karl would say I would bet your money on a bad ignition switch at the bottom top of the steering collum.
But check everything else first before throwing more parts at the truck.
As part of your checking pull the blower motor resister and clean the leaves and crap from it or it can heat up and set them on fire.
It is in the engine bay in the duct work next to the blower motor, has wires going to it.
Dave ----
Your guages problem can also be tied to the ignition switch. I would put a new ignition switch in it and flood the upper part of the steering column with wd 40.
I’ll definitely check out the ignition switch. Thanks you guys. Also I did put an ohm meter on the battery while running and I’m at 13.8 V at idle the gauge just might be off, but all the lights on the entire truck will brighten and dim as it runs. I have cleaned all of the grounds in the engine bay and I was mainly focused on making sure the voltage regulator was still working before I went and replaced electrical parts that may run a risk of blowing up again. Also would the ignition switch cause gauge malfunctions? My oil, temp and voltage gauge all work. I have no fuel gauge and I cannot switch between the front or back tank so I’m assuming it’s probably not the sending unit.
After starting, will the heater fan come ON.... If you roll the key back (towards ON) manually a little bit?
Do you have a. Tilt Wheel?
Jim
no jiggling the key when it’s running while not turn the blower motor on. When I move the key forward but do not start the truck it will come on but when I actually start the truck it turns off. Then if I let it run long enough usually it will kick on randomly after a while. Also the steering wheel is fixed in place unfortunately
Welcome to the forum. Lots to digest, so let's start with the big stuff. Before doing anything, be sure to charge that poor battery. It's very important to have a fully charged battery when doing any electrical troubleshooting. This is a very important step, so please don't skip it.
Make sure you installed a quality name brand. If you installed a brand like Fling Dung or Wok Hoam, do yourself a YUGE favor and get a quality starter relay.
Did somebody say slow-cranking starter?!!! I could cut glass with my nipples when I hear that:
ummmm I think I broke something. I ran your volt drop test and I have 11.7volts dc. Please help 😂
Ok so you used I hope a volt meter and had 13.8 volts at idle. 13.5 to 14.5 is what you want with everything on and the RPM up a little.
Now you have 11.7 volts? where was this measured at and motor running or off and just after a start?
Oh the voltage regulator has to have a good ground to the fender.
The AMP gauges in our trucks dont work all that good.
On the fuel gauge and valve what motor does the truck have as that will help us know what fuel system you have.
I take it you have pulled the fuse for the gauge & tank switch / valve? Also have you tried to move the switch back & forth a bunch of times to see if that helps.
Sometimes the contacts get dirty and moving the switch can help get it working again.
But really need to know the motor size and year of truck to help much more.
Dave ----
I ran your volt drop test and I have 11.7volts dc.
Please elaborate. I’m looking for three readings and you only gave one, leaving us to guess. Note to self: These mind-reading pills I got on Temu are a total ripoff.
Where exactly were the meter leads while you recorded this value? We need real specifics, such as red lead directly on the positive battery post, etc.
Engine on or off? If running, what RPM? Or was this with the ignition disabled and starter cranking?
Please elaborate. I’m looking for three readings and you only gave one, leaving us to guess. Note to self: These mind-reading pills I got on (T e m u) are a total ripoff.
Where exactly were the meter leads while you recorded this value? We need real specifics, such as red lead directly on the positive battery post, etc.
Engine on or off? If running, what RPM? Or was this with the ignition disabled and starter cranking?
Im talking about the volt drop test you linked for testing the ignition switch on your 1984 f-250. The one you used to test it at the fuses without having to take anything apart. I used the same fuses you did and had a volt reading of 11 point something volts. When you did it you had 0.9 volts to the fuses. Our fuse boxes look the exact same a fuse box diagram I pulled of google matched your description exactly. I’m assuming ford may have used the exact same fuse box and fuse pattern but wired it differently for my year or something is horribly wrong lol 😂. As for using a volt meter. I used a multi meter with it set to volts DC. I’m assuming that’s the same. If I did something stupid be patient with me please. I’ve only ever worked on vintage two stroke motorcycles and small miscellaneous stuff on trucks. This truck is meant to be my way of cutting my mechanical teeth if you would.
Moderator's Note:
After the post above did not appear following four attempts without success, the post author tried a 5th and final time, this time changing the wording and nesting the post within a spoiler tag. So as not to lose any of the author's meaning, the content beneath the spoiler tag was recovered, and is repeated below, due to the wording change.
I’m talking about the voltage drop test you linked for testing the ignition switch at the fuses instead of taking everything apart. I followed your steps and had 11. something volts with the key in the run position and the blower motor set to high. I don’t know how it’s so high. I know yours was too high at 0.9 volts. I’m assuming we must have the same fuse boxes with the same fuse layout but my year must be wired differently. That or something is horribly wrong. I don’t have a fuse box diagram but the one I googled looked to match mine perfectly and yours perfectly. As for the volt meter I used a multi meter set to volts dc.
Last edited by Y2KW57; Dec 17, 2025 at 05:25 PM.
Reason: Merged 5 repeated attempts at posting same post, that were automoderated by a bad keyword in the post quoted with reply. Altered keyword.
I’m talking about the voltage drop test you linked for testing the ignition switch at the fuses instead of taking everything apart. I followed your steps and had 11. something volts with the key in the run position and the blower motor set to high. I don’t know how it’s so high.
Sorry for the late response here. Didn’t see your post until just now.
Your voltage reading is very helpful. The ignition switch has either failed or is way out of adjustment. You didn’t break anything. In fact, just the opposite. You’re hot on the trail.
Is this problem responsible for all the symptoms you noted? That’s still unknown, but that switch definitely needs some love. Take care of that and then check the other stuff again.
The thread with the test also has a link showing how to check the adjustment and replace the switch if needed.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
