I was the one that said something about the meter.
In one of your posts you had "ohm's" when checking for volts and I just wanted to make sure you were using volts on the meter and not ohm's and could hurt the meter.

Carry on as it sounds like you found a problem.
As Karl said and the drop test shows, fix that and test again as you may find the next failed part.
Dave ----

 

Thanks everyone, I have ordered a new ignition switch. In the meantime I got impatient and went ahead and pulled the old switch. Does anyone have a link on how to check the switch with a multi meter once it’s off. I know I already checked it the easy way. But I kinda wanted to try and grasp how the switch itself works. I don’t know jack about electric but I figured now would be the time if any.

 

Yes.

Any other questions?

(pause for laughter to die down)

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-evtm.html

See page 96. That's for 1981, but per RockAuto the same switch was also used for 1980.

 

Before you go testing or maybe before & after, spray it with electrical cleaner & lube as it helped on mine from sticking.
Dave ----

 

So I tested the switch after I took it out. Everything seems to be working fine on it now. To be fair I cleaned and lubed it all back up before I tested it. Probably should have tested it first to tell if it was bad but now I know. I’ll probably slap it back on today and see what it does. I want to test if I’m getting signal to the starter solenoid. When I do that can I just leave the starter solenoid on and wired and just pull the ignition wire and test it for voltage as someone turns the key. Also how exactly do I do that. Can I just set the multi meter to volts and place the positive lead on the ignition wire then the negative lead to the negative wire on the solenoid or can I just ground the negative lead to any surface.

 

I'd be very reluctant to reinstall the old switch. When the innards are moved in one direction (Off to On), the contacts land in one position. However, this particular spot gets little wear because typical usage is Off through On to Start and finally back to On. The contacts usually land in a different spot on the return trip, and that's where the most wear occurs.

Your description of how to test the starter control circuit is close. Set the meter to DC volts. At the starter relay, disconnect the small wire from the S terminal. Connect the meter's red lead to this wire. Connect the meter's black lead to a good ground. (There's no "negative wire on the solenoid" unless you added a ground wire.) Have a helper turn the key to Start while you read the meter.

 

You can test the wire as you describe at the solenoid, but it's not the best way to test things. If you have a dirty connection somewhere in a circuit, taking the circuit loose on the end and testing it with a meter can give you a good indication of voltage with the meter. But put the load of the solenoid on the circuit, and it may not work, enough current may not flow through the dirty connection to activate the solenoid.

That is why you always see guys in the know use a testlight or some even have homemade test lights with wires attached to a old headlight bulb. The bulb actually loads down the circuit. Or better than that in your case, I would pull the large wire going to the starter off and lay it aside. Leave all the other wiring hooked up to the solenoid. Turn the key, the solenoid should make a "thunk" sound if it's getting voltage from the key. If you do want to check that small wire with your meter, lift the wiring connector on the small terminal just enough to where you can get the meter lead under it, but it still makes connection. Then get someone to spring the key to start while you are holding the meter leads, you should get 12v on the meter and the solenoid should "thunk". You can believe the meter when you have the solenoid connected also.

 

The solenoid needs a good ground too. That goes through the mounting against the fender wall. Checking the S1 wire to any ground doesn't tell you if there's a ground path through the solenoid. Having the 12v light bulb in line between the wire and the stud will verify that. Make sure the bulb is brightly shining, like when you put it across the battery terminals.

 

Just wanted to let you guys know I went ahead and waited for the new ignition switch and it seems to have fixed everything including my gauges. Although the front tank sender unit doesn’t want to read anymore even tho it was working before but I’ll take it lol. Thank you all for the help. I will be opening another thread on my heater riser/choke soon.

 

Thanks for letting us know what fixed it as it may help others if they do a search.
Dave ----