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never had any problems until Thanksgiving day. went to start the truck and the starter did nothing. could hear a slight click when i turned the key. If i turned it several times it would eventually hit and start. I'm thinking dead spot on starter armature. but is it possible some other issue? just thought i would see if there was a common problem i wasn't aware of.
Have you load tested the batteries seperately, checked all fuzes and relays all the starter wires for corrosion? Have you run anyother tests? Watched the voltage while cranking see if it drops below 8v and engine needs 12v@ 400 plus amps to roll the engine at 100 to 150 rpm.
Do you have anything that can pull codes and read live data? Verify that you are makeing and keeping sync and SYNC.
I doubt it is a oil pump pressure with everything you have changed but you can try unplugging the ICP and see if it will start.
Try wiggling the gear selector to make sure it is in park all the way. Otherwise there is a single wire under the hood on the passenger side near the blower motor. There is a connector the can be disconnected and it will reach the positive side of the battery. This will put power to the solenoid on the starter eliminating the ignition switch.
look on the passenger side near the heater fan motor and locate this connector. Coming back toward the front of the truck, it has a single wire inside the plastic sheathing that will be yellow with a blue stripe.
Squeeze the round connector like this to unlock it while twisting and pulling. It should unplug fairly easily.
There is a single pin inside the front half of the connector.
Touching this pin to the positive battery post SHOULD cause the starter to spin over and crank the engine. If you still have the factory battery terminals, this little bolt sticking up seems like it was made for this purpose. If it doesn't crank, there is an issue with the batteries, starter, or the electrical connections between them. If the key is off it will only spin over, if the key is on it should start.
This shouldn't cause any significant sparking when you touch it to the battery and it shouldn't get hot while cranking. It won't hurt the truck and it won't hurt to drive it if you started it this way just be sure to reconnect it after it fires up.
look on the passenger side near the heater fan motor and locate this connector. Coming back toward the front of the truck, it has a single wire inside the plastic sheathing that will be yellow with a blue stripe.
Squeeze the round connector like this to unlock it while twisting and pulling. It should unplug fairly easily.
There is a single pin inside the front half of the connector.
Touching this pin to the positive battery post SHOULD cause the starter to spin over and crank the engine. If you still have the factory battery terminals, this little bolt sticking up seems like it was made for this purpose. If it doesn't crank, there is an issue with the batteries, starter, or the electrical connections between them. If the key is off it will only spin over, if the key is on it should start.
This shouldn't cause any significant sparking when you touch it to the battery and it shouldn't get hot while cranking. It won't hurt the truck and it won't hurt to drive it if you started it this way just be sure to reconnect it after it fires up.
I'll give this a try in a few minutes. all codes are good and new batteries a week ago 950 cca replacements. and tried the gear selector to make sure it wasn't that. I'm pretty sure it is a bad spot in the starter. will try the above test if it still does it will pull starter and have it checked.
How old is your ignition and how worn is your key. Try this trick above, and see if you can rule some things out. I have a remote start and it's getting more and more common that I need to remote start cause the ignition is prevented by the remote start and alarm. If you have a alarm or remote start you can try putting in valet, or try remote starting, along with the trick above, you may find your ignition switch is loosing it too. Something to think about anyway.
How old is your ignition and how worn is your key. Try this trick above, and see if you can rule some things out. I have a remote start and it's getting more and more common that I need to remote start cause the ignition is prevented by the remote start and alarm. If you have a alarm or remote start you can try putting in valet, or try remote starting, along with the trick above, you may find your ignition switch is loosing it too. Something to think about anyway.
Haven't had a chance to try that yet as we had company come over and couldn't get away. don't have a remote start. the key isn't worn but it was a duplicate and i have to jiggle it to turn the ignition. and the ignition is original 2004 though I'm not sure what that would have to do with it other than maybe the contacts where the ignition throws the switch to electric.
Yup, just the contacts get worn the longer it's in there and eventually, they don't work sometimes. Not saying this is your issue, just a place to start. Like said above, the relay is bypassed by this wire trick, so that is also a possibility
Yup, just the contacts get worn the longer it's in there and eventually, they don't work sometimes. Not saying this is your issue, just a place to start. Like said above, the relay is bypassed by this wire trick, so that is also a possibility
it's first on my agenda to try it tomorrow morning. hopefully something simple even though changing the starter isn't that bad, but I've already put a fortune in it in the last 3 months i've owned it. what's another $128.00. meanwhile, where is the starter relay located? under dash or under hood on drivers side? just in case that ends up being the problem.
took starter off and when i did the main power post on the solenoid just fell off. touch a jumper cable to the starter strap and it rolls over with no problem. haven't ordered starter yet but now leaning towards the solenoid since it fell apart. i hit the armature contact several times and had not problems rolling the starter over. when it was on truck it didn't even roll unless i kept hitting the key. after looking around to find a solenoid think I'm just gonna replace the whole starter.
Yup, they used to keep starter mounted solenoids, alternator diodes and bearings and stuff like that on the shelf, not anymore these days. They'd rather sell ya the whole thing with a warranty so you can bring it back multiple times until you get a good one.
Yup, they used to keep starter mounted solenoids, alternator diodes and bearings and stuff like that on the shelf, not anymore these days. They'd rather sell ya the whole thing with a warranty so you can bring it back multiple times until you get a good one.
(Old fart rant over lol)
I've been fortunate with the warrenty thing and never had to return parts but there is always the first time. would rather just buy the solenoid. found some that are who know brand and afraid to try it.
