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Have one in the trans pan ,,, but still need to get inside the rear housing to nut it, plus it has a small actual hole so will be a long drain of gear lube. I might would use a 1/2"-20 drain plug or a taper thread pipe thread and if the metal is too thin for threads, I'd weld a nut to the housing exterior after is drained.
Last edited by tbear853; Nov 24, 2025 at 09:45 AM.
I'd rather weld it but I don't have access and I'd never get it clean enough, I don't think. I'm thinking of the tranny kind that bolts together inside and out with a nylon washer to seal.
I'm thinking of the tranny kind that bolts together inside and out with a nylon washer to seal.
Got mine in my C-6 from B&M.
My thought about a pipe plug like say 3/8" size is they have a tapered thread, so I'd only thread a hole about half way up the taper, so it would get tighter the further in it was screwed, use thread tape on it.
Last edited by tbear853; Nov 22, 2025 at 06:14 PM.
I thought about it when I changed the fluid after I got my rig, but considering you’d only need to change it every 40-50k miles, I’ll let the next guy worry about it 🤣
Just curious, why are you needing to drain, flush and replace the 9" fluid enough to warrent a seperate drain plug? It is a race rig, mud runner, top fuel....Why not just make a home made diff fluid suction bottle? This is a fellow FTE members design below.
Black hose in the fill port. Air nozzle tip in the hole in the orange hose. When you spray air is creates a vacume on the black hose...sucks oil into the jug.
Here is one that welds on to the back housing and is low profile. Might as well pull the axles and the 3rd member, get it all cleanded out and then drill and weld. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...BoCJXAQAvD_BwE
I'm looking to change my pumpkin to a lower numeric ratio. A new gear set needs a breakin and oil change about 500 miles. Didn't want to pull the center section again to replace the gasket and drain. I've since discovered that Curie offers a process call REM (?) polishing the eliminates the need for a breakin.
Well, my alternative that I just recalled is to leave the pumpkin in, but remove the 5 bolts for the pinion holder and slide it out and use a grease pump to pull lube out through that hole, and take the pinion holder to my bench and change the pinion seal. Of course I'd loosen the pinion nut while it's still all together after dropping the drive shaft, then do the rest keeping meticulous notes as to shims, etc, nut threads, clocking of yoke / nut / pinion shaft, and nut position. Is a larger O-ring with "D" cross section where pinion holder goes in.
Drill and tap a drain.
How often do you plan on draining it?
Yep, and it's likely I'll just draw out what I can through the fill hole, then refill it to freshen it up. I've done it a few times, but never have I done a complete draining type change of rear axle lube ... or even the TC lube. I do crawl under for a look often, wipe some, look for major leaks. Good chance I'll not even bother with the seals unless one starts gushing oil.
