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I have a 1986 Lariat and the driver's side door lock actuator doesn't work correctly. At first I assumed it was the actuator as that's what usually fails and is what fixed the passenger side. I installed the new actuator and it doesn't do squat. I'm barely getting 9 volts to the drivers side actuator connector. I checked the wiring in the door jambs as those wires tend to flex and break. They all seem fine on both sides. I ohmed the wiring from the passenger side to the driver's side. One wire (pick w.black dots) is .2 ohms and the pink wire is .5 ohms. I turned the driver's side switch around as it's symmetrical and there's no change. On the passenger side i swapped the window switch with the window switch and it's still acting up...Any suggestions?
Pull the actuator back out and see if it works directly off the battery. I do not trust new parts. Once you get more into working on your truck and get burned a couple of times, you will get the same attitude I have.
Is there a way to put power to the actuator when installed and after the switch? Like switch removed?
This would test with power from switch to plunger and if that works then you have to back track.
What power (volts) do you have to that switch? In a case like this I would look at volts not ohms.
I know you said you swapped the switch I think but my guess it is a bad switch.
BTW can you move the lock linkage by hand? If it is frozen from old hard grease and dirt it may never move.
Dave ----
When testing, do you always try to lock it? What happens if you manually lock it and try to unlock it with the button? The locks work just like the power windows. The lock has a little dc motor in it. The two wires to the motor, neither one is ground. The lock/unlock switch switches the polarity of the motor wires to make it turn one way or the other to make it lock or unlock. So ground can be on either one of the motor wires depending on which direction you want it to go.
If it will unlock, but not lock, I suspect the switch. Also, have you tried it mounted in the door but not hooked up mechanically? Could there be a mechanical problem in the door with the lock mechanism? I agree 9v is low, but I would think it would still try to do something with 9v on it.
I have ( volts in one position, 1.5 volts in the other. My next step is to hot wire it from the passenger side to the driver's side. The passenger lock works ok with either switch. The lock actuator is new and tests good when I connect it straight to the battery.
Seems to me you have a ground issue. How does the actuator complete it's circuit? Through a wire out near the door hinge? I have to ask as I have manual windows. I have had many wiring issues where a hinged element is involved. Hoods, trunks and doors.
I have ( volts in one position, 1.5 volts in the other. My next step is to hot wire it from the passenger side to the driver's side. The passenger lock works ok with either switch. The lock actuator is new and tests good when I connect it straight to the battery.
When you measure voltage, are you going wire to wire? Don't use a ground connection on the volt meter.
You need a digital volt meter the can read negative or positive voltage.
Have you done the things Franklin suggested?
If it locks or unlocks, meaning 1 way and not the other, it proves the 2 wire that feed the driver side are good.
The 2 wires the feed the drivers side are just copied from the passenger side.
If both switches operate the passenger side correctly, it means the switches are good.
Jim
Last edited by JimsRebel; Nov 14, 2025 at 04:03 PM.