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I have a 1986 F150 XLT Lariat 4.9 with the 4 speed.
This is my fun truck that I just silly things with. Most recent silliness is the 3 inch drop springs (yes yes I know DJM I-beams) and axle flip.
I have a lot of negative camber. I am not looking to get everything perfect, I do not have the drive to do every bushing in the front end right now.
What camber bushings fit the 2wd drive, everything I find is for the 4wd?
I have searched but search is only as good as the search terms and I just have not had any luck finding part numbers or experiance with a lower truck and negative camber, I keep finding lifted and positive camber
Any help with part number, links or better search terms would be great
I have a simular problem. A 2”lift spring gives me gross amounts of positive camber. I have found some (oddly enough at walmart) but its only1 3/4’degree so i put my stock springs back on.
When you lower anything by cutting or shorter coils you loose suspension travel.
Measure how much you have between the bump stop and think the beam?
Bet not much.
The shop you took it to could not get adjusters through their supplier? How about a local parts store or NAPA for them?
It looks like you have adjusters already do you know what size they are because they might be able to be turned and used.
Just note when you turn them besides adjusting camber you are also adjusting caster and you may only be able to get both close to what they should be.
Dave ----
I am finding some on Summit racing's site. Do a google search and put in SPS-24160
you have to be careful, many of them come up in the search but then specify 4wd only in the details. It will be a lot of work and not cheap, a do, check and redo not fun grind.
I took the bump stops off and with the old struts was not good so I got some from DJM and firmed everything up in the front and I haven't bottomed out.
Unfortunately, I got screwed at the local alignment shop. They had by truck 3 days and gave me this song and dance about how hard they tried to adjust the front end. I needed the truck this last weekend so I just picked it up. I got bad feeling about how much "work" they said they did. Well you can see by the pics above how hard they worked on the camber bushings. So I will be doing this myself as no other alignment shop in my small town will touch my truck due to the I-Beam
Yeah seemed like everything that came up were for 4wd even when they said 4wd/2wd SPS-24160
I called summit to confirm they would fit the 2wd and they confirmed they would fit.
$75 a pop but cheaper than a new set of tires I suppose. I will post when they get here and how they fit
Sorry to hear of the trouble you had with the alignment shop. It seems to be getting harder and harder to find alignment shops that are comfortable working with older suspension setups. Lucky for us, we sell the components and tools for the DIY folks!
According to everything that we and SPC show, those SPS-24160camber/caster sleeves should be correct for your 1986 RWD F-150. @FuzzFace2 made a lot of great points. It looks like your truck already has adjustable sleeves in the upper ball joints where they sit in the spindles. These sleeves let you move the ball joint stud inside the spindle to fine-tune alignment. Just keep in mind that they adjust camber and caster together, so you may need to find a good balance between the two instead of getting both perfect. You're also going to want to go back over the toe as well.
Good luck with the project, and let us know if we can be of any further assistance!
My alignment shop told me it was out by 3.8’ and he didnt think it could be rectified. But he only had it 45 min. I also found over at garysgaragemahal.com. The ford book on suspension said there was no camber fix for the 2wd with a lift. I know i can fix it with a pivot axle drop. But for now i put the stock springs back on it.
Last edited by Denzil B; Nov 12, 2025 at 03:07 PM.
There are reasons why some mods have to be done a certain way as you found out.
When doing a lift you have to use drop brackets to get the suspension back in spec.
Dave ----
So I got to taking it part and I get how this is supposed to work but I am missing something. I can not get the bushing to move at all. I have up to an 1.5 wrench which doesn't fit and I dont see how to get a socket in there that will fit over the ball joint stud and get the ratchet in as well. Is there a special tool like the SPS wrench for their socket?
So I got to taking it part and I get how this is supposed to work but I am missing something. I can not get the bushing to move at all. I have up to an 1.5 wrench which doesn't fit and I dont see how to get a socket in there that will fit over the ball joint stud and get the ratchet in as well. Is there a special tool like the SPS wrench for their socket?
you will need to loosen the nut on the bottom ball joint. Drop it to the bottom of the threads, but dont take it off. Then smack the outside shell that holds them both with a hammer. Some knocker loose or rust ez may help. Or a ball joint remover. From there you can adjust it and drive it back up with a wrench. This is not going to be fun!
Be careful when mentioning I beam front suspension to alignment shops or???
Most of the time they will think of the solid I beam.
Not the twin I beams that we have.
Two very different critters!
Be careful when mentioning I beam front suspension to alignment shops or???
Most of the time they will think of the solid I beam.
Not the twin I beams that we have.
Two very different critters!
Not really as you need to bend both to adjust caster & camber.
Other than ours pivot in the center and the solid on either side not much different in my book.
Well a solid axle you can use degree wedges to tilt the axle on the leaf springs to change caster but it changes both sides not just one like bending.
The same as you would use on a rear axle leaf spring car to adjust the pinion angle for Ujoints and drag racing.
If the shop is any good as soon as you give the make / year they would know what you got.
Dave ----
