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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Engine removal question

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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 12:47 PM
  #16  
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I just wanted to follow up on this thread in case anyone is looking for answers to the questions in the thread.

1. You can remove the engine without depressurizing/removing the AC components.
2. You can remove the engine with a standard cherry picker and without removing the front clip.

I removed the hood for more room to work with. Also, with the engine at it's highest point on the picker, I chose to push the truck backwards instead of try to move the cherry picker - that would have been pretty dicey.

 
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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Bronc
I just wanted to follow up on this thread in case anyone is looking for answers to the questions in the thread.

1. You can remove the engine without depressurizing/removing the AC components.
2. You can remove the engine with a standard cherry picker and without removing the front clip.

I removed the hood for more room to work with. Also, with the engine at it's highest point on the picker, I chose to push the truck backwards instead of try to move the cherry picker - that would have been pretty dicey.
Can confirm the above. And rolling the truck back is standard procedure if you do not have a concrete floor, or are using a large tree limb or heavy duty swing set to pull the engine.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 08:39 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 69Bronc
What year is your truck? A couple of references I checked indicated that post 1983, the trucks started going to one-piece rear mains, with the exception of the 460 engine. If yours has a one piece, I would think most reputable shops could handle it. The two piece ones I don't think a lot of newer shops get much practice with those - so I'd look for something a bit more specialized in that case.
Its an '86 351. thanks
And nice work.
 

Last edited by soybomb; Jan 20, 2026 at 08:42 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2026 | 11:27 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 69Bronc
I just wanted to follow up on this thread in case anyone is looking for answers to the questions in the thread.

1. You can remove the engine without depressurizing/removing the AC components.
2. You can remove the engine with a standard cherry picker and without removing the front clip.

I removed the hood for more room to work with. Also, with the engine at it's highest point on the picker, I chose to push the truck backwards instead of try to move the cherry picker - that would have been pretty dicey.

That’s a clean looking 460! Nice that you were able to pull it straight up and leave the AC together. Is that an aftermarket aluminum intake? If so, what kind and do you like it? I’m in the process of adding an aluminum intake but wasn’t sure if it was safe to use a lift plate with it, but after reading some posts here and seeing your success looks like no worries. I had to discharge the AC and remove the condenser and compressor to pull the motor out the front of my van chassis so i get to try my hand at resealing and converting over to modern refrigerant.

Mine was leaking oil from the back too, and some of it may have been the main seal, but after disturbing the pan gasket a couple times for a cam timing upgrade to straight up i think the original 4 piece oil pan gasket was the majority of the oil leak in my case. Maybe yours is just the pan gasket? Anyway, I got a nice 1 piece oil pan gasket for the reinstall.
 

Last edited by Brnfree; Jan 23, 2026 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 11:57 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Brnfree
That’s a clean looking 460! Nice that you were able to pull it straight up and leave the AC together. Is that an aftermarket aluminum intake? If so, what kind and do you like it? I’m in the process of adding an aluminum intake but wasn’t sure if it was safe to use a lift plate with it, but after reading some posts here and seeing your success looks like no worries. I had to discharge the AC and remove the condenser and compressor to pull the motor out the front of my van chassis so i get to try my hand at resealing and converting over to modern refrigerant.

Mine was leaking oil from the back too, and some of it may have been the main seal, but after disturbing the pan gasket a couple times for a cam timing upgrade to straight up i think the original 4 piece oil pan gasket was the majority of the oil leak in my case. Maybe yours is just the pan gasket? Anyway, I got a nice 1 piece oil pan gasket for the reinstall.
Thanks! We got lucky with this truck - it only has ~58,000 miles - it's pretty clean. The intake is an Edelbrock performer. I like it quite a bit. And no problems on the lift plate - worked like a charm.

There is definitely some leaking from the oil pan gasket as well. Evidence of it coming from the rear main also. I'll be replacing both. Which 1 piece gasket did you go with?

I wish I didn't have to work all the time so I could have more time for this stuff. Gotta finish up this truck so I can get back to my '77 project.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 01:47 PM
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I wish I didn't have to work all the time so I could have more time for this stuff.
Funny, i was just thinking of having that tattoo'd on my back. Now, in addition to the main seal, my truck will turn over all day but not start.....so i'll be chasing that gremlin (when time allows)
 
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 09:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 69Bronc
Thanks! We got lucky with this truck - it only has ~58,000 miles - it's pretty clean. The intake is an Edelbrock performer. I like it quite a bit. And no problems on the lift plate - worked like a charm.

There is definitely some leaking from the oil pan gasket as well. Evidence of it coming from the rear main also. I'll be replacing both. Which 1 piece gasket did you go with?

I wish I didn't have to work all the time so I could have more time for this stuff. Gotta finish up this truck so I can get back to my '77 project.
Thanks for the reply! I know exactly what you mean, there’s never enough time for the fun stuff. Yes, I thought I recognized it. I’ve got the performer too but will probably use the stock cast iron intake with the lift plate to just for installation purposes, because the carb flange sits a couple inches lower with the stock intake and I need those inches to slip it back into the RV. Then I’ll install the performer.

The one piece didn’t work out. Tried to upgrade to a later style… only to discover they ran smaller oil pan bolts in the later years and my ‘86 oil pan bolts wouldn’t fit through the embedded washers.
 

Last edited by Brnfree; Jan 28, 2026 at 09:37 PM.
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