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I have a 1986 F350 with a 460. I am planning on pulling the engine to replace the clutch and also fix the rear main seal. I started taking things apart last night and noticed that there might be some clearance issues with the factory AC. I couldn't find a direct answer searching on the site. Can this engine be pulled without depressurizing the AC and taking it apart (or can you take it off without depressurization)?
I have a 1986 F350 with a 460. I am planning on pulling the engine to replace the clutch and also fix the rear main seal. I started taking things apart last night and noticed that there might be some clearance issues with the factory AC. I couldn't find a direct answer searching on the site. Can this engine be pulled without depressurizing the AC and taking it apart (or can you take it off without depressurization)?
Thanks.
iThats a big engine and a tight fit. I suspect pulling it out the top would pose problems. But you should be able too if you remove the core support and pull it out the front. Its an extra two hours of work but it should be do-able.
I dont know if you can remove the compressor and lay it off to the side on the inner fender and still get the motor out or not?
I have never given it a try on anything I have owned but I have heard of some that have done that.
The other thing I have seen posted is to remove the system as a whole.
With the radiator out you might be able to get the condenser out from the radiator side.
You will need to remove the evap from the box, not hard as I have swapped mine out, system was open.
You will need a hand or 2 to get all of that out of the engine bay and not have to open the system.
I heard of this online when junk yard hunting and not wanting to open the system.
Dave ----
I removed the compressor and did lay it off to the side, but the hoses *might* cause a clearance problem.
I saw something about removing the whole system intact - said it was possible for 80-96 F series and Broncos. I just don't know if that post was for dealer vs. factory AC installs. I'll dig more into it in the next couple of nights - just wanted to see what the community here said.
I removed the compressor and did lay it off to the side, but the hoses *might* cause a clearance problem.
I saw something about removing the whole system intact - said it was possible for 80-96 F series and Broncos. I just don't know if that post was for dealer vs. factory AC installs. I'll dig more into it in the next couple of nights - just wanted to see what the community here said.
Thanks for the responses!
if you have removed the compressor then the seal is lost. Just go ahead and remove whatever you need to to get it out. But be advised you will need a lot of height to get the engine over the core support. An engine hoist for a car wont do it. You will need to lift it from a rafter, tree, truck lift, or pull it out the front. Its actually easier to pull it out the front.
I removed the compressor and did lay it off to the side, but the hoses *might* cause a clearance problem.
I saw something about removing the whole system intact - said it was possible for 80-96 F series and Broncos. I just don't know if that post was for dealer vs. factory AC installs. I'll dig more into it in the next couple of nights - just wanted to see what the community here said.
Thanks for the responses!
I believe that is for a factory system as I dont know how the hoses are run or where the evaporator is and how it comes out.
I do know the factory evap comes out from the engine bay side. Remove half of the HVAC box (1 screw is inside) and the coil is right there.
I guess some hoses are different / longer than others and why it can lay on the inner fender?
Originally Posted by Denzil B
if you have removed the compressor then the seal is lost. Just go ahead and remove whatever you need to to get it out. But be advised you will need a lot of height to get the engine over the core support. An engine hoist for a car wont do it. You will need to lift it from a rafter, tree, truck lift, or pull it out the front. Its actually easier to pull it out the front.
When he said "removed" he meant from the motor not opening the system and removing from the engine bay.
Dave ----
I believe that is for a factory system as I dont know how the hoses are run or where the evaporator is and how it comes out.
I do know the factory evap comes out from the engine bay side. Remove half of the HVAC box (1 screw is inside) and the coil is right there.
I guess some hoses are different / longer than others and why it can lay on the inner fender?
When he said "removed" he meant from the motor not opening the system and removing from the engine bay.
Dave ----
@69Bronc - quick question as I am looking at a rear main seal job in my future. Would a reputable transmission shop know enough about these trucks (mine is a 351 W and a C6) to handle this or should i be looking at someone who is more specialized? This is new territory for me and while i love wrenching on it, i dont have the time, space or brain power to take this on. Thx
@69Bronc - quick question as I am looking at a rear main seal job in my future. Would a reputable transmission shop know enough about these trucks (mine is a 351 W and a C6) to handle this or should i be looking at someone who is more specialized? This is new territory for me and while i love wrenching on it, i dont have the time, space or brain power to take this on. Thx
That will depend on the shop, as the rear main seal is on the engine itself. But most of the work is actually in getting the transmission out of the way. So maybe..
@69Bronc - quick question as I am looking at a rear main seal job in my future. Would a reputable transmission shop know enough about these trucks (mine is a 351 W and a C6) to handle this or should i be looking at someone who is more specialized? This is new territory for me and while i love wrenching on it, i dont have the time, space or brain power to take this on. Thx
Unless your engine has a one piece rear main seal, you will want to pull the engine, since the oil pan needs to come off. People do it in the truck but it's not much fun and has some risk to it. If it has the regular two piece seal, pulling the transmission is not going to help much.
I just did a little search, the 302 went to a one piece rear main in 1986. But I see you have a 460, apparently they kept the 2 piece seal till the end. So I think you will be better off to pull the engine, put all new gaskets and a timing chain in it, and do your rear main then. The biggest hurdle is pulling the oil pan.
@69Bronc - quick question as I am looking at a rear main seal job in my future. Would a reputable transmission shop know enough about these trucks (mine is a 351 W and a C6) to handle this or should i be looking at someone who is more specialized? This is new territory for me and while i love wrenching on it, i dont have the time, space or brain power to take this on. Thx
What year is your truck? A couple of references I checked indicated that post 1983, the trucks started going to one-piece rear mains, with the exception of the 460 engine. If yours has a one piece, I would think most reputable shops could handle it. The two piece ones I don't think a lot of newer shops get much practice with those - so I'd look for something a bit more specialized in that case.
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