When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I decided to replace my oil cooler after seeing that my deltas were pretty extreme. While I was cleaning the valley up I noticed that two holes had some rtv in them, could this have caused such extreme deltas, or at least contributes to it? Coolant temp was at about 180 and oil temp was at around 240-245
I don't think so. One is a threaded bolt hole, the other is a drain hole that leads into the crankcase.
I doubt that it was completely clogged. Do not use liquid sealant ANYWHERE on the oil cooler.
Our trucks are reaching an age where the radiator should also be cleaned, both inside and out.
You can carefully clean the outside with a high-pressure cleaner, and the inside is best cleaned with this tool, which can be used to introduce bursts of compressed air.
I don't think so. One is a threaded bolt hole, the other is a drain hole that leads into the crankcase.
I doubt that it was completely clogged. Do not use liquid sealant ANYWHERE on the oil cooler.
Our trucks are reaching an age where the radiator should also be cleaned, both inside and out.
You can carefully clean the outside with a high-pressure cleaner, and the inside is best cleaned with this tool, which can be used to introduce bursts of compressed air.
I don't think so. One is a threaded bolt hole, the other is a drain hole that leads into the crankcase.
I doubt that it was completely clogged. Do not use liquid sealant ANYWHERE on the oil cooler.
Our trucks are reaching an age where the radiator should also be cleaned, both inside and out.
You can carefully clean the outside with a high-pressure cleaner, and the inside is best cleaned with this tool, which can be used to introduce bursts of compressed air.
Hartwig, would it not work better to flip the radiator over and flow it the reverse direction to get more crud out?
Of course, I flush it upside down first, then discolored water comes out (I forgot to film it because it almost slipped away from me in the tub; I have to build a holder so that doesn't happen. I use the tub to see how much dirt has been flushed out of the radiator). Then I flush it as shown in the video.
Not sure how the whale snot ended up in the bolt holes, but it DOES need to be part of this project. Book says to put dabs of grey RTV (non-foaming) on the block-rear cover junction before seating the HPOP cover to seal that joint because the press-in seal in the cover won't extend down enough to seal completely.
Every place I had a cord gasket on this engine, I backed it up with TA-31, ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CORD exposed to the exterior. And it wasn't much, just enough to prevent weeping, as you can see from the squish-out. You need to use common sense.
The cords that were wet on both sides did not get the sealer.
This is also an excellent sealant (as Jack mentioned, apply it to the outside of the seal). The advantage is that it can be applied in very small amounts.
I use it for all work on engines and transmissions, from lawnmowers to combine harvesters.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
