Fuel filter replacement
I guess we have to wait until the OP gets home from work... I know us old retired guys have too much time on our hands sometimes... but at least we want to help. It can be frustrating having to wait for updates... 

One more caution. Reading between the lines, you’re new to a carbureted engine and mechanical fuel pump. If the carb is indeed empty, you will need to crank the starter a bit to get fuel up to the carb. This is perfectly normal.
However, be careful not to use the “crank and pray” method. Don’t just crank and crank and crank that poor starter. If fuel is not reaching the carb within 20 seconds or so, stop cranking and investigate why. Let the starter rest for several minutes before trying again.
Sadly, we’ve had too many tales of guys running down the battery or burning up a perfectly good starter. If you don’t get the desired result, continued cranking of the starter isn’t going to change anything. Stop and investigate why.
However, be careful not to use the “crank and pray” method. Don’t just crank and crank and crank that poor starter. If fuel is not reaching the carb within 20 seconds or so, stop cranking and investigate why. Let the starter rest for several minutes before trying again.
Sadly, we’ve had too many tales of guys running down the battery or burning up a perfectly good starter. If you don’t get the desired result, continued cranking of the starter isn’t going to change anything. Stop and investigate why.
If it did not fill on the first "fire of life" hit it with a 2nd spray and see if that does it.
Heck if they were not there leave the keys and we will get it running for when you get home

It is really hard for us because what we call a part or what the truck is doing could be something totally different than what you are calling it.
Like it will not crank by when it turns over it??? crank & turn over are the same thing. Wanting to start but will not run I see it as it being just as you let the key off from cranking because it should run but dose not.
Yep not being there to help kills us a little

Dave ----
You do not need to do any special procedure to get the air out. The fuel system will fill on it's own from cranking the engine. Check the carb for fuel like was mentioned by taking the aircleaner off, manually open the choke door on top of the carb, and take your other hand and push the throttle wide open. This is all done with the engine off. You should see one single stream of fuel squirt into the engine. If you do, you have fuel. If you don't see fuel, crank the engine some. Then go out and check it again.
You do not need to do any special procedure to get the air out. The fuel system will fill on it's own from cranking the engine. Check the carb for fuel like was mentioned by taking the aircleaner off, manually open the choke door on top of the carb, and take your other hand and push the throttle wide open. This is all done with the engine off. You should see one single stream of fuel squirt into the engine. If you do, you have fuel. If you don't see fuel, crank the engine some. Then go out and check it again.
All good information so far.
I would start, motor off, by opening the choke looking down inside and move the throttle and see if you see fuel squirt and if not you can either spray a little starting fluid down inside the carb and see if it will start.
Or keep cranking it, may take a bit of cranking to fill the carb fuel bowl.
I have to crank my motor, a 300 six like yours, a lot when it sits for a bit to fill the carb bowl. I also pump the throttle like a mad man when cranking till it comes to life.
If you still are not getting fuel to the carb, even with starting fluid 2 or 3 times you will need to look into why now fuel to the carb.
I would undo the hard line from the screw in filter. BTW you turned it in to far. It uses pipe threads that have a taper to no need to "run it home" till tight. You cant loosen it now as it will leak and hope you can use a new filter down the road and not have it leak. Once the hard line is loose have something to catch fuel out of the line and crank the motor and see if fuel comes out.
If not report back and we can go from there on what to check.
Oh if you have been moving the throttle a lot you may have flooded the motor. If you think that is why it will not start and see fuel squirt then try holding the choke open with a large screw driver, hold the throttle to the floor and try and start.
Dave ----
ps every motor with a carb starts a different way, 1 pump or 2 or none when cold or hot. That is all the fun of owning something old
I would start, motor off, by opening the choke looking down inside and move the throttle and see if you see fuel squirt and if not you can either spray a little starting fluid down inside the carb and see if it will start.
Or keep cranking it, may take a bit of cranking to fill the carb fuel bowl.
I have to crank my motor, a 300 six like yours, a lot when it sits for a bit to fill the carb bowl. I also pump the throttle like a mad man when cranking till it comes to life.
If you still are not getting fuel to the carb, even with starting fluid 2 or 3 times you will need to look into why now fuel to the carb.
I would undo the hard line from the screw in filter. BTW you turned it in to far. It uses pipe threads that have a taper to no need to "run it home" till tight. You cant loosen it now as it will leak and hope you can use a new filter down the road and not have it leak. Once the hard line is loose have something to catch fuel out of the line and crank the motor and see if fuel comes out.
If not report back and we can go from there on what to check.
Oh if you have been moving the throttle a lot you may have flooded the motor. If you think that is why it will not start and see fuel squirt then try holding the choke open with a large screw driver, hold the throttle to the floor and try and start.
Dave ----
ps every motor with a carb starts a different way, 1 pump or 2 or none when cold or hot. That is all the fun of owning something old

You do not need to do any special procedure to get the air out. The fuel system will fill on it's own from cranking the engine. Check the carb for fuel like was mentioned by taking the aircleaner off, manually open the choke door on top of the carb, and take your other hand and push the throttle wide open. This is all done with the engine off. You should see one single stream of fuel squirt into the engine. If you do, you have fuel. If you don't see fuel, crank the engine some. Then go out and check it again.
All good information so far.
I would start, motor off, by opening the choke looking down inside and move the throttle and see if you see fuel squirt and if not you can either spray a little starting fluid down inside the carb and see if it will start.
Or keep cranking it, may take a bit of cranking to fill the carb fuel bowl.
I have to crank my motor, a 300 six like yours, a lot when it sits for a bit to fill the carb bowl. I also pump the throttle like a mad man when cranking till it comes to life.
If you still are not getting fuel to the carb, even with starting fluid 2 or 3 times you will need to look into why now fuel to the carb.
I would undo the hard line from the screw in filter. BTW you turned it in to far. It uses pipe threads that have a taper to no need to "run it home" till tight. You cant loosen it now as it will leak and hope you can use a new filter down the road and not have it leak. Once the hard line is loose have something to catch fuel out of the line and crank the motor and see if fuel comes out.
If not report back and we can go from there on what to check.
Oh if you have been moving the throttle a lot you may have flooded the motor. If you think that is why it will not start and see fuel squirt then try holding the choke open with a large screw driver, hold the throttle to the floor and try and start.
Dave ----
ps every motor with a carb starts a different way, 1 pump or 2 or none when cold or hot. That is all the fun of owning something old
I would start, motor off, by opening the choke looking down inside and move the throttle and see if you see fuel squirt and if not you can either spray a little starting fluid down inside the carb and see if it will start.
Or keep cranking it, may take a bit of cranking to fill the carb fuel bowl.
I have to crank my motor, a 300 six like yours, a lot when it sits for a bit to fill the carb bowl. I also pump the throttle like a mad man when cranking till it comes to life.
If you still are not getting fuel to the carb, even with starting fluid 2 or 3 times you will need to look into why now fuel to the carb.
I would undo the hard line from the screw in filter. BTW you turned it in to far. It uses pipe threads that have a taper to no need to "run it home" till tight. You cant loosen it now as it will leak and hope you can use a new filter down the road and not have it leak. Once the hard line is loose have something to catch fuel out of the line and crank the motor and see if fuel comes out.
If not report back and we can go from there on what to check.
Oh if you have been moving the throttle a lot you may have flooded the motor. If you think that is why it will not start and see fuel squirt then try holding the choke open with a large screw driver, hold the throttle to the floor and try and start.
Dave ----
ps every motor with a carb starts a different way, 1 pump or 2 or none when cold or hot. That is all the fun of owning something old

Fuel below the carb. We'll want to know if you mean from where the carb mounts to the intake manifold or are you saying it's from under the fuel supply line feeding the fuel filter ?
With the fuel supply line removed from the filter, you'll want to crank the engine over for a few seconds and see if gas comes out of the line. You may want to put a hose over the tube into a bucket on the ground.
Those of us who have been around cars for years would just give it a quick crank of the starter and see if any fuel spits out. You just need to verify the fuel pump on the engine is working.
There is a rubber piece inside the pump that if bad could give less fuel to the engine until it doesn't...it's been many decades since I've had a mechanical fuel pump.
With the fuel supply line removed from the filter, you'll want to crank the engine over for a few seconds and see if gas comes out of the line. You may want to put a hose over the tube into a bucket on the ground.
Those of us who have been around cars for years would just give it a quick crank of the starter and see if any fuel spits out. You just need to verify the fuel pump on the engine is working.
There is a rubber piece inside the pump that if bad could give less fuel to the engine until it doesn't...it's been many decades since I've had a mechanical fuel pump.
Fuel below the carb. We'll want to know if you mean from where the carb mounts to the intake manifold or are you saying it's from under the fuel supply line feeding the fuel filter ?
With the fuel supply line removed from the filter, you'll want to crank the engine over for a few seconds and see if gas comes out of the line. You may want to put a hose over the tube into a bucket on the ground.
Those of us who have been around cars for years would just give it a quick crank of the starter and see if any fuel spits out. You just need to verify the fuel pump on the engine is working.
There is a rubber piece inside the pump that if bad could give less fuel to the engine until it doesn't...it's been many decades since I've had a mechanical fuel pump.
With the fuel supply line removed from the filter, you'll want to crank the engine over for a few seconds and see if gas comes out of the line. You may want to put a hose over the tube into a bucket on the ground.
Those of us who have been around cars for years would just give it a quick crank of the starter and see if any fuel spits out. You just need to verify the fuel pump on the engine is working.
There is a rubber piece inside the pump that if bad could give less fuel to the engine until it doesn't...it's been many decades since I've had a mechanical fuel pump.
the fuel appeared below where my finger is pointing. Only happened that first time but not again. I even did try swapping to the old filter and gave it a few cranks but no. There is fuel coming in the line though. I'd have to try what you said and get it out to see but when I removed the line to swap to the old filter, fuel came out.
So fuel came out of the line and the bottom end of the filter.
Are we sure fuel is coming out of the top of the filter when it's connected on the supply line ?
We're heading out for dinner soon... so others may have to reply.
Are we sure fuel is coming out of the top of the filter when it's connected on the supply line ?
We're heading out for dinner soon... so others may have to reply.
Maybe I can help. You stay home and keep going with the troubleshooting. I’ll go ahead and eat your dinner for you.


the fuel appeared below where my finger is pointing. Only happened that first time but not again. I even did try swapping to the old filter and gave it a few cranks but no. There is fuel coming in the line though. I'd have to try what you said and get it out to see but when I removed the line to swap to the old filter, fuel came out.
If you have fuel at the hardline at the carb, and at the filter itself. It sounds like the needle and seat might be stuck and not letting fuel to enter.
If you feel inclined and you have a light 2 lb or less brass hammer, I would lightly tap by using the weight of the hammer around where the fuel comes in, not the filter itself but the sides of the bowl near where the filter comes in, this is roughly the area the needle and seat will be situated at.. Sometimes youll get lucky and the jaring will free the needle that is stuck and youll be good. If that is what it is and the needle unsticks I would strongly recommend adding some stabil 360 ethanol fuel treatment if you have E10 fuel at all your pumps like here. It will help clear the system out and hopefully prevent it from sticking again.
I dont have a photo of it but I just dropped the tank on my truck that I was running that stuff in with every fill up, truck sat for the last 5 years since the engine went down and I parked it. Fuel tank is empty now in typical fashion with sitting a long time but that ethanol treatment did its job, the inside of that tank isnt a rust bomb like I have seen tanks sit just 1 year without any kind of ethanol treatment.
If you feel inclined and you have a light 2 lb or less brass hammer, I would lightly tap by using the weight of the hammer around where the fuel comes in, not the filter itself but the sides of the bowl near where the filter comes in, this is roughly the area the needle and seat will be situated at.. Sometimes youll get lucky and the jaring will free the needle that is stuck and youll be good. If that is what it is and the needle unsticks I would strongly recommend adding some stabil 360 ethanol fuel treatment if you have E10 fuel at all your pumps like here. It will help clear the system out and hopefully prevent it from sticking again.
I dont have a photo of it but I just dropped the tank on my truck that I was running that stuff in with every fill up, truck sat for the last 5 years since the engine went down and I parked it. Fuel tank is empty now in typical fashion with sitting a long time but that ethanol treatment did its job, the inside of that tank isnt a rust bomb like I have seen tanks sit just 1 year without any kind of ethanol treatment.
If you have fuel at the hardline at the carb, and at the filter itself. It sounds like the needle and seat might be stuck and not letting fuel to enter.
If you feel inclined and you have a light 2 lb or less brass hammer, I would lightly tap by using the weight of the hammer around where the fuel comes in, not the filter itself but the sides of the bowl near where the filter comes in, this is roughly the area the needle and seat will be situated at.. Sometimes youll get lucky and the jaring will free the needle that is stuck and youll be good. If that is what it is and the needle unsticks I would strongly recommend adding some stabil 360 ethanol fuel treatment if you have E10 fuel at all your pumps like here. It will help clear the system out and hopefully prevent it from sticking again.
I dont have a photo of it but I just dropped the tank on my truck that I was running that stuff in with every fill up, truck sat for the last 5 years since the engine went down and I parked it. Fuel tank is empty now in typical fashion with sitting a long time but that ethanol treatment did its job, the inside of that tank isnt a rust bomb like I have seen tanks sit just 1 year without any kind of ethanol treatment.
If you feel inclined and you have a light 2 lb or less brass hammer, I would lightly tap by using the weight of the hammer around where the fuel comes in, not the filter itself but the sides of the bowl near where the filter comes in, this is roughly the area the needle and seat will be situated at.. Sometimes youll get lucky and the jaring will free the needle that is stuck and youll be good. If that is what it is and the needle unsticks I would strongly recommend adding some stabil 360 ethanol fuel treatment if you have E10 fuel at all your pumps like here. It will help clear the system out and hopefully prevent it from sticking again.
I dont have a photo of it but I just dropped the tank on my truck that I was running that stuff in with every fill up, truck sat for the last 5 years since the engine went down and I parked it. Fuel tank is empty now in typical fashion with sitting a long time but that ethanol treatment did its job, the inside of that tank isnt a rust bomb like I have seen tanks sit just 1 year without any kind of ethanol treatment.
You have many things working against you with this simple system. The main thing is the fuel the government makes you buy. It is lousy, and in a engine that sits around, it gets gummy and sticky. The ethanol in it attracts water and that makes the fuel tank rust. This rust flakes off and gets sucked up by the pump and gets stuck in the carb, clogging it up.
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