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Hey all. So my 2001 Ford Ranger 2.5 2WD doesn't have a working speedometer. I know the gauge cluster and all the fuses are good, so im thinking its a bad connection at the pigtail when my stepfather rewired it. Any help on how i would go about rewiring it again when I get a new pigtail and sensor? Im kind of at a loss.
If the non working speed-o came about as a result of the wiring splice attempt you may have a good suspect list. The rear speed sensor also feeds the rear ABS system, so if the dash ABS lamp is also lit, its another clue to suspect the splice or wiring. More thoughts for consideration. Let us know what you find.
If the non working speed-o came about as a result of the wiring splice attempt you may have a good suspect list. The rear speed sensor also feeds the rear ABS system, so if the dash ABS lamp is also lit, its another clue to suspect the splice or wiring. More thoughts for consideration. Let us know what you find.
The abs light isn't on, but at low speeds my rear wheels will lock up if I brake, if that helps
Automatic or manual. Looks like automatics use a transmission mounted speed sensor. If your ABS light is not on, that's a sign. Might even be that some 5 speeds use a tranmsission mounted sensor. Not sure, not clear.
Why was the "rewiring" done? Is it a new vehicle to you or new engine or new harness?
Automatic or manual. Looks like automatics use a transmission mounted speed sensor. If your ABS light is not on, that's a sign. Might even be that some 5 speeds use a tranmsission mounted sensor. Not sure, not clear.
Why was the "rewiring" done? Is it a new vehicle to you or new engine or new harness?
its a 5 speed manual, and the rewiring is best a question for my stepfather when he was driving it back and forth to work. Im guessing he bought a pigtail and a sensor. I know the sensor is good since I JUST replaced it...
The abs light isn't on, but at low speeds my rear wheels will lock up if I brake, if that helps
Ok, so lets think about this some more. If the RABS lamp has been lit for a long time before the splice work, it may be burned out. To check that out, does it light up & turn off for its self-test when you turn the ignition key to On & Pause there, while the engine computer cycles through all its systems warning lights self check? If it doesn't wink on & turn off it may be burned out. If it winks on & turns off it would suggest the RABS speed sensor circuit is ok & the speed-o not working is being caused by something else. Whew lol
I do agree the wiring needs to be put right in any case .
If replacing the wiring with a factory repair pigtail doesn't put things right, use, borrow or come by the inexpensive ELM scan-tool & running FORScan diagnostic freeware on your viewing device of choice as discussed here Low Cost ELM Scantool - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums as it can query all of the vehicle computer controllers like the ABS, Body, GEM for readings or trouble code clues that can help focus a trouble-shoot. Post All trouble code Numbers.
More thoughts for pondering. Keep the forum updated on your finds
Woops, forgot to reply to the low speed rear wheels locking up. A common problem that can cause that is brake fluid on the brake linings from a weeping brake wheel cylinder problem like the cylinder bore being pitted from old water saturated brake fluid rusting the bore & that roughness wearing on the wheel cylinder rubber piston seal, or someone handling or touching the linings or brake drum friction surface with brake fluid or grease on their hands.
Unplug the sensor on the diff and see if the ABS light comes on when driving. If it does that's a good clue that the sensor output is correct. There's not much to the sensor, just a magnetic coil that generates a voltage when metal passes by. It doesn't have a power supply.
If nothing happens it might be that the tone ring in the diff is damaged. It has the metal teeth that the sensor is counting.
Might help if you could find out why your stepfather thought something needed fixing. Flying blind here... pawpaw's solving a wheel lockup problem, you're focused on the speedometer.
Unplug the sensor on the diff and see if the ABS light comes on when driving. If it does that's a good clue that the sensor output is correct. There's not much to the sensor, just a magnetic coil that generates a voltage when metal passes by. It doesn't have a power supply.
If nothing happens it might be that the tone ring in the diff is damaged. It has the metal teeth that the sensor is counting.
Might help if you could find out why your stepfather thought something needed fixing. Flying blind here... pawpaw's solving a wheel lockup problem, you're focused on the speedometer.
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