ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS 1972 F100
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 40
Likes: 4
ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS 1972 F100
Have a 2wd with a 351W FORD duraspark distributor and a MSD 6 box, engine has 50k on it and runs well. Truck sat for about a month and a half, was running when parked.
Was going to drive it the other day so I hooked up the battery charger and set it on 40 amp charge for about an hour, turned the key and no click no nothing, turned charger to 200 amp and still nothing. Jumped the starter solenoid and it turns over fine. That tells me solenoid and starter are good.
There is no dome light and cannot here the remote electric pump running, have no power to the cab and headlights do not work. Truck was running fine when last driven and parked. Seems odd that it would lose all power.
Any idea or things too look at and check???
thanks for any advice you can give
Dan
Was going to drive it the other day so I hooked up the battery charger and set it on 40 amp charge for about an hour, turned the key and no click no nothing, turned charger to 200 amp and still nothing. Jumped the starter solenoid and it turns over fine. That tells me solenoid and starter are good.
There is no dome light and cannot here the remote electric pump running, have no power to the cab and headlights do not work. Truck was running fine when last driven and parked. Seems odd that it would lose all power.
Any idea or things too look at and check???
thanks for any advice you can give
Dan
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 248
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Check and clean your battery terminals to start. Every thing goes through those 2 main cables, so verify They are good and not corroded up.
Look for chewed up wires under the hood, mice like to chew on. If all's good you need to see if your getting any power into the fuse box. A test light is best tool for this. Then see if power is to your ignition switch.
Look for chewed up wires under the hood, mice like to chew on. If all's good you need to see if your getting any power into the fuse box. A test light is best tool for this. Then see if power is to your ignition switch.
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 40
Likes: 4
Battery cables are clean and no corrosion, wouldn't hurt to remove and clean. Live in town have never seen a mouse in the 30 years I have lived here. Would need a wiring diagram to check the wire, have them on the FORDification forum but it is down, will have to find one. Thanks for the advice. Is there a main power wire into the switch??
Dan
Dan
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 248
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
It's a 10ga Red wire if my memory is any good. I had my original wiring harness (68 F100) out the other day looking for something. Check to see if you have the round pins or spaded ones on your ignition switch. The round ones have a problem of loosening up giving bad contact. I don't recall when they switched to the spade connectors.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 801
Likes: 255
From: Laramie Wyoming
You might check and make sure the battery itself is still good. If the cells went bad in it you may not be able to jump it with the box regardless. I’ve not had much luck with batteries in the recent years. Their quality has gone down considerably.
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 40
Likes: 4
Yeah I thought about the battery as they will solfide and not allow juice to flow, but jumping the solenoid it turns over. ??? Got on FORDifocation website and viewed the wiring diagram, problem is won't let me print it.
Got to get some help to push the truck up further in the garage as it is parked to close to the wall and can't open the drivers door. Will try to get working on it next week hopefully. Still thinking the ignition switch has gone bad.
thanks for the replies
Got to get some help to push the truck up further in the garage as it is parked to close to the wall and can't open the drivers door. Will try to get working on it next week hopefully. Still thinking the ignition switch has gone bad.
thanks for the replies
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 801
Likes: 255
From: Laramie Wyoming
I’m sorry I missed that. Yea I would say the ignition switch is probably your next culprit.
If you could find one in a junk yard that had keys and you could switch out your locks in your doors would be the way to go. Unless two keys doesn’t bother you.
Otherwise hopefully you can find a NOS switch.
If you could find one in a junk yard that had keys and you could switch out your locks in your doors would be the way to go. Unless two keys doesn’t bother you.
Otherwise hopefully you can find a NOS switch.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 40
Likes: 4
Oreillys h<s the switch for 20.00 and can just remove the cylinder. Am thinking on trying that first when I get it moved . Kind of limited on time and I am terrible on electrical diagnosis. Will keep ya all posted.
Dan
Dan
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 248
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
The tumbler/cylinder set is not included in a ignition switch. You put your original key cylinder into the new switch. Upgrade to the newer spade and save your self some problems. You only have to splice in 5-6 wires.
If you remove the connector from the ignition switch you will probably find that its tarnished and maybe black from being over heated due to a loose connector. You can tighten the connectors but it's only a temp fix.
If you remove the connector from the ignition switch you will probably find that its tarnished and maybe black from being over heated due to a loose connector. You can tighten the connectors but it's only a temp fix.
Last edited by blue68f100; Oct 18, 2025 at 12:28 PM.
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 40
Likes: 4
Worked at a FORD dealerships for 45 years now in parts and am quite familiar on removing the cylinder from the switch all you need is a paper clip and the key. As I remember FORD switched to the spade type switch in 70.
Got it moved in the garage today and went to test the solenoid to see if I had power on the starter side when cranking with a remote, just buzzed. I did not unscrew the battery disconnect **** two days ago when done and battery was charged. Found my battery paperwork and it will be 3 years old this January I use Motorcraft battetrys as they are readily available at work. They last pretty lone here in Arizona but that about average 3 years. Gonna pick one up next week and start there
Dan
Got it moved in the garage today and went to test the solenoid to see if I had power on the starter side when cranking with a remote, just buzzed. I did not unscrew the battery disconnect **** two days ago when done and battery was charged. Found my battery paperwork and it will be 3 years old this January I use Motorcraft battetrys as they are readily available at work. They last pretty lone here in Arizona but that about average 3 years. Gonna pick one up next week and start there
Dan
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 40
Likes: 4
Fuse able link appears good, usually when they are blown they swell and the insulation is burnet, will double check it as well as ground connections.
I pulled the ignition switch and noted a couple of the spade connectors were slightly burnt, think I am on to something. Will keep you posted.
Dan
I pulled the ignition switch and noted a couple of the spade connectors were slightly burnt, think I am on to something. Will keep you posted.
Dan
