Hello,

I purchased a 1987 Ford 150 4x4 with the 302 last a while back and I have quite a bit of black-pepper sized metal flakes in the oil.

I bought the truck for cheap with the information from the previous owner that the engine had just been amateurly rebuilt and was still experiencing metal flakes in the oil 14k miles after the "break-in" period.

I figured whatever the cause of the metal in the oil, it was going to need a new motor, and I figured I would drive the motor until it croaked.

Several months later, still got metal in the oil, I still drive the truck regularly with no knock or tick developing, HOWEVER...

The truck has developed a misfire under almost any load when the RPMs are below 2k, this misfire does seem to be getting worse.

So, after researching this issue I am wondering if these symptoms may be consistent with a cam lobe getting ground out? Any thoughts?

Could I verify if this is the issue without taking the heads off? (I think I will at least need to get the intake off.)

Is the engine toast from all the metal shavings?

Could I just cam swap to a hydraulic lifter setup with the short block still in the truck? I would be willing to do some disassembly.





Additionally, I have done some cursory research on what I would need to do to replace the engine and came up with these options.

ENGINE REPLACEMENT OPTIONS

1.) 302 Short-Block
-This seems to be the most straightforward option, will any 302/5.0 short block work if I attach all my current accessories? (would love a roller cam setup)

2.) 351W Swap
-Would require (from what I read) and ECU from a 351W truck (w/ a manual like mine), exhaust work, and 351W engine w/ accessories. Am I missing anything?

2.) 300 Inline 6 Swap
-Honestly my ideal solution, would love the 300 in this truck, even if the 3.55 gears and the no-Overdrive np-435 would maybe need regearing for highway cruising

-This swap however seems to be the most involved needing everything for a 351W swap plus engine mounts. (and maybe more?)



Any thoughts on these?

Truck for reference:


1987 f150

 

You could likely pretty well diagnose the camshaft with a compression test.

If you have those pepper size metal particles in the oil, the only thing that could have POSSIBLY saved the main bearings and the connecting rod bearings is your oil filter(s).

If you plan to save this engine, diagnose it first and definitely check the main and rod bearings before putting any money into it.

Just my opinion.

 

But wouldn't the valve have a hard time opening all the way, not closing all the way if the lobe is ground down?


Sounds like even if I want to keep the engine, it's gonna need to come out first.

Guess I'll need to decide what kind of motor I want to swap in. Really gonna try for a 300, seems like a pretty no-nonsense engine for work.

 

Correct. Which would show up on the compression test.


For simplicity, I would go with another 302 or a 351W. You should be able to run the 351W with the 302 computer.

 

You can pull the valve covers and see if your valves are all moving. Or if there is a big difference in one or more.

All engines are subject to the cam/lifter problem.

With metal in the oil, it needs to come apart for a fix.

As to the swap, a later roller 302 out of the last of the Explorers and Mustangs can be equipped with a carb and an earlier distributor and be a bit of an upgrade.

A 300--having had a 300 I wouldn't swap one over to a 302, but neither would I swap a 302 over to a 300. All pain, no gain.

A 351W would be a much larger increase in ooomph.

 

Had a ‘79 Camaro(350),that had a cam lobe that wore down, mechanical friend, got it into his garage, replaced the cam, and all was well for several years. Sold that thing when we started having children.

 

All that metal circulating through the engine is a problem. The 3 year old cam in my 2.9L went flat but I didn’t have any noticeable metal. Maybe a little glitter in the oil.

A roller cam 302 or 351W is definitely the way to go. My ‘89 block was roller ready and someone on here said he had an ‘88 block that was also drilled and tapped for the spider but I don’t think the OP’s ‘87 would be. Why would you put a carb on it instead of the EFI? I would not go that route.

You might be an to get away with that if it wasn’t for all the metal that the OP says he has in the oil.

 

My pal's 89MY (11/88 build) was drilled and tapped, my 88MY (05/88 build) had the roller nubs, NOT drilled nor tapped...both 302. In there somewhere Ford ran the roller blocks all prepped. I would assume your 302 has the nubs, but who knows.

Go to a 351W, pointless to spend cash on a 302. Look for a left for dead conversion van, small bus, small RV, etc Those are usually really inexpensive when clapped out. Demand is low for them now F4TE is the casting you want

Yes, it will run on a 302 EEC-IV.

 

Alrighty, I will probably compression test it this weekend and post the results. If I really can run the 351W with the 302 computer that may be the way I go.

 

Kinda figured, looks like I'll drive her until the insurance runs out and start looking for a swap.

How does the 351W handle less than 2000 RPM?

really like to bumble around in the highest gear available when cruising/not hauling, something the 302 does not like.

 

Interesting, probably gonna tear down the 302 to see what happened, if the bearing look good may keep it as a core.

 

Think a roller cam 351W is my likely path, will just look for a 300 equipped truck later down the road. I honestly like the old EFI too, just gotta understand some primitive electronics, and that's honestly a lot less trouble for me than a carb.



Yeah, drained some into a paper cup so I could get a good look, and something's not happy.

 

I'm kinda going down that 351W path a lot stronger now, do you think it would actually run on my '87 302 EFI? Because that would simplify a LOT.

 

The 300 is overrated imo.

 

Those are good statistics, thank you!