excellent choice on coil

 

Any of these starter solenoids should work for you. They are grounded through the mounting bracket and triggered by the a power signal from the starter button. You can ignore the I terminal for resistor bypass since yours is internal to the coil.

ACDelco 19106673
ACDelco C3912
ACDelco U939
AMC J3180465
AMC J3235898
Advan-tech 4D7
Airtex 1M1026
Airtex 1M1030
Airtex 1M1030A
BWD S63
Brunswick Mercruiser 65057T1
CARQUEST Premium By WELLS 25-1526
CARQUEST Premium By WELLS 25-1527
Carquest Premium Vehicle Solutions SBC3196
Carquest Vehicle Solutions 84C1002
Cartek SS3
Chrysler 3180465
Chrysler 3225629
Chrysler J3180465
Chrysler J3235898
Duralast F496
Duralast F496G
Duralast F496VC
Duralast STSB10001
Duralast STSB10001G
Duralast STSB10001VC
Echlin ST81
Ford 2701966
Ford 2702610
Ford B6A11450A
Ford B6AZ11450A
Ford C4AF11450A
Ford C4AF11450B
Ford C6AF11450A
Ford C7AF11450A
Ford C9AF11450A
Ford C9AZ11450A
Ford D2AF11450A
Ford D2AF11450AA
Ford D2DF11450AA
Ford E7HT11450AA
Ford E7HZ11450AA
Ford FDR11450A
Ford PB9L11450A
General Motors 1114208
General Motors 12324512
General Motors 1972255
General Motors 4921
Jeep J3180465
Jeep J3235898
Kem SW86
Kem SW89
Mallory 9-15106
MasterPro 2-SS3
MasterPro 2SS3
MasterPro Ignition 2-SS3
Mighty Distributing System 3-927
Mighty Distributing System 5-930
Motorcraft SW1507B
Motorcraft SW3
Motorcraft SW7663
NAPA Mileage Plus ST81SB
Original Engine Management SS3
Outboard Marine (OMC) 980801
Renault J3180465
Renault J3235898
Sierra Marine 18-5802
Standard Motor Products SS-581
T Series SS581T
Valucraft F496VC
Wells 1M1030

 

You're the best, have given me great advice. The 6V solenoid I pulled off only has 3 prongs but looks like the replacement 12V have 4. Do I just leave the one prong open?

 

Yes, the extra prong is the I terminal for resistor bypass which is not utilized in your system as previously mentioned.

 

Yes. It is for a 12v bypass to the coil to help with starting if it's been resisted down to 6v for running to protect the points. It's not necessary if you have electronic ignition or your ignition system is in otherwise good condition. Don't worry about it for now and only redress the issue if you have a starting problem in the future.

 

Was able to finally have some time to do some work on the truck. Got the recommended new battery cables and solenoid. Still just clicks and wont turn over - my limited knowledge makes me think the next thing to work on is testing the starter itself. Is this possible to do on the truck or do I need to take off and bench test? The Solenoid clicks even when key is not in/turned and ignition button is pushed, don't know if thats typical. Thanks!

 

On a stock setup, the starter will crank anytime the button is pushed regardless of ignition key position.

Some of the parts chains offer starter/alternator/generator testing. You simply bring the item in and they attach it to the machine and test it out. You may also have a specialty local shop that focuses on alternators, generators, and starters. They would be able to test and advise as well.

Replacement starters are generally abundantly available all over the Internet. You can get one with a new drive gear, or transplant your existing. Just some examples (not necessarily recommendations):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/332090524185

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...40s-1950s.html

https://discountstarterandalternator...-ford-3-7l-l6/

 

Your starter button can be set up either way, either hot all time or only when the key is switched on. That depends on which terminal you send power from at the key switch to the button. It's a little dangerous to have it hot all time, like yours is, if the button is pushed accidently or on purpose and the truck is in gear and you're not careful. The starter is powerful enough to move the truck which can result in personal injury or property damage. If you're pushing the button with the clutch engaged (clutch pedal not depressed) and in gear, unaware, be grateful the solenoid is just clicking.

Going through the troubleshooting list, if you have a new solenoid and a good battery, assuming the new solenoid is not defective, starter is about all that's left. It could be jammed or bad wiring internally, or perhaps any number of other things. If you have the right equipment you could test in in the truck, but lacking that, you'll need to take it to someplace to have it load tested. Know that the bolts that hold the starter to the bellhousing go all the way through and there's nothing else to hold the starter together. If you're not careful, the starter will fall apart in pieces in your hands.

 

I reread the posts and I don't see where anyone mentioned the starter bendix may have jammed into the flywheel. It will only "click" when it is locked up. My '51 did that often after the 12v conversion. My starter bendix engaged so hard that it actually started pulling the ring gear off of the flywheel!.
You can check by seeing if you can turn the engine by hand using the fan. If you cannot turn the engine, put the truck in 3rd gear and rock it back and forth which should dislodge the starter. 12 volts can drive the 6v bendx so hard and quick into the flywheel that the long starter shaft will flex and lock up against the flywheel. My fix for that was to get a 12 starter winding housing (early 60's maybe) and put my 6v armature into it. It spins faster than a stock 6 volt starter, and less than a 6v starter with 12v. Been working fine for 25 years now. Someone here might even know if there is a 12 volt version of our starter.
Incidentally, my generator is like yours...except someone sawed the mounting ears off to look like stock!
good luck

 

You said it quit while running.

does the engine turn over?

 

Thanks for everyones help! I got delayed with life stuff but pulled the starter (mouthful of rust/dust) and did a basic bench test and it seemed to work. Replaced it with new starter wire and now truck fires up!!

Was so excited and then noticed the generator smoking . After I turned truck off it was humming and smoking so I disconnected battery STAT. Tried repolarizing today and while stopped the humming after, generator still smokes when battery hooked up. Do you think I burned it up? Time for another generator/alernator?

Thanks!!

 

Smoke generally is not a good indicator. I'm not sure we clearly identified what generator you have and if it is 6 or 12V. Also not identified is the voltage regulator. Let's understand what parts you have so we can intelligently move forward. There will be those that will just simply advocate for scrapping everything and starting over with a new alternator setup; but before we fire the parts cannon and rewire/reconfigure and what not, let's get to the root cause and act intelligently from there.

 

Voltage regulator
This is a picture of the voltage regulator. tried to see any markings to identify but don't see any

I know someone referenced the generator does not appear to be original as it has "wings". Is there a way to identify on the truck or would I have to pull it?

 

Well that voltage regulator is missing its cover. Sometimes the cover has a label and some numbers on it that help identify it. Occasionally there inked or stamped numbers on the top bottom or underside faces of the regulator. You remove the mounting screws carefully. You can leave the wires attached and just see if any such identifying marks exist.

As for the generator, yes it does have mounting gears on it that indicate it is not a factory generator for this application. I seem to recall that you believe the vehicle is 12 volt converted and so that could be the reason why the generator is not of the factory type. Generators usually have a metal tag tell the voltage, model, and other information. It's hard to tell if the retaining strap is obscuring something of that nature.

 

Yeah I had taken the cap off to polarize generator. Unfortunely don't see any label or numbers on it. The voltage regulator also did not seem to have any markings when I unmounted and checked all around.

The Generator had FAS10139B which seems to be a 12V '59-62' Ford/Mercury Generator