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I changed the Dummy plugs and stand pipes about 200k miles ago with motor craft parts. IPR 27.78% but I can't remember if this was running or not. If it is not too late today I will recheck it.
This is what I understand also. The IPR readings are 14.8% KOEO and 25.78% KOER. While driving I seen IPR % of about 70ish. Not sure if this matters but I took the ICP Volts KOEO .25v KOER 0.94v. I am getting an P0670/71/72/73 Glow Plug control module and glow plug codes.
So 15% is IPR fully open and 85% is fully closed. It's a dump valve so more closed = more ICP pressure. The PCM won't fire the injectors until it sees 500psi of ICP. It will start closing the IPR valve until that is achieved when cranking.
At hot idle my 06 always run 23-24% IPR with 580 ICP but that may be different for an 04 as it's got the different HPOP. Running down the road it can vary significantly based on load. If you are seeing 70% IPR with a light load that is definitely a sign of a problem. Driving around unloaded mine is typically below 50% (I'll need to watch it more carefully, usually watching temps). I only see numbers that high when I'm pulling hills or trying to merge onto a freeway pulling a trailer and am pushing 20psi+ of boost. I don't think I get over 75% unless the pedal is completely to the floor.
Last edited by FiveOJester; Oct 2, 2025 at 02:26 PM.
So 15% is IPR fully open and 85% is fully closed. It's a dump valve so more closed = more ICP pressure. The PCM won't fire the injectors until it sees 500psi of ICP. It will start closing the IPR valve until that is achieved when cranking.
At hot idle my 06 always run 23-24% IPR with 580 ICP but that may be different for an 04 as it's got the different HPOP. Running down the road it can vary significantly based on load. If you are seeing 70% IPR with a light load that is definitely a sign of a problem. Driving around unloaded mine is typically below 50% (I'll need to watch it more carefully, usually watching temps). I only see numbers that high when I'm pulling hills or trying to merge onto a freeway pulling a trailer and am pushing 20psi+ of boost. I don't think I get over 75% unless the pedal is completely to the floor.
I will put the laptop and forscan on it and monitor it while driving without a loa and report what I find.
Got to connect the Forscan today below is what I got, the first pic is koeo and the second is at hwy speeds 55 to 60mph. The EBP sensor was removed and shown below, it is pretty dirty should I clean it or replace it, this is the original sensor. I disconnect the ICP sensor and try to restart and it really didn't affect the start time. The IPR while cranking read as high as 48%. I drained the fuel from the HCFM and it had more trash then normal so I will replace both filters tomorrow. The air filter was a little dirty but not enough to move the air filter restriction indicator. I forgot to check the Mode 9, rain caught me multiple times.
I purchased a new EBP sensor waiting for it to get delivered. I ordered it from Tasca Ford, even with shipping cost I saved $40 from the price at the local Ford dealer. I ordered motorcraft fuel filters from oemautosource.com, they were almost 1/3 of the price from Oreily auto.
So was it price that resulted in buying from oemautosource? Their reviews look pretty bad to me. I would have to say that our standard list of recommended suppliers would have some good prices with higher likliehood of AUTHENTIC OEM parts.
In addition to a few good on-line dealerships like Tasca and Apple Ford of White Bear Lake (used to be Tousley, and then Auto Nation):
DieselFiltersOnLine
RiffRaff
CNCFab
Racor Store
and there are a few others ,,,,,,,,,,,,
So was it price that resulted in buying from oemautosource? Their reviews look pretty bad to me. I would have to say that our standard list of recommended suppliers would have some good prices with higher likliehood of AUTHENTIC OEM parts.
DieselFiltersOnLine
RiffRaff
CNCFab
Racor Store
and there are a few others ,,,,,,,,,,,,
Price was a factor, seems like the prices have really went up. I was thinking since it was motorcraft and same part numbers I could trust it. Do you think they may not be legit, this is the first time I purchase filters online? I will definitely compare them to the ones I am removing from the truck.
IMO it is too important to have the correct filtration than to learn by some issue cropping up that you didn't.
There is such a narrow "window of success" on these 6.0's that IMO something like being 100% sure on filters being OEM is a no-brainer. People have put a lot of effort into validating that list. Sure, there are probably other sources, but prior validations on the really trustworthy companies is important.
As I have posted many times before, you can not conclude a filter is authentic by a simple visual. There is so much more involved that dimensions and visual observations.
IMO it is too important to have the correct filtration than to learn by some issue cropping up that you didn't.
There is such a narrow "window of success" on these 6.0's that IMO something like being 100% sure on filters being OEM is a no-brainer. People have put a lot of effort into validating that list. Sure, there are probably other sources, but prior validations on the really trustworthy companies is important.
As I have posted many times before, you can not conclude a filter is authentic by a simple visual. There is so much more involved that dimensions and visual observations.
I understand and agree that filtration is super important. The only filters I use on all my vehicles are motorcraft, since all or fords. I assumed being the part # and type matched it was the same as I get from the auto parts stores. I will save the links and order from them from now on. Last thing I want to do is create a problem from using cheap parts.
Last edited by fordtruckrodder; Oct 7, 2025 at 12:19 PM.
I replaced the fuel filters and EBP sensor, I also removed the EBP tube and blew it out with air. The truck seems to run smoother but still take a little longer to crank than usual. When I say longer starts, it would typically start immediately now it is taking 3 to 4 revolutions, am I being paranoid for nothing? For some reason it sound like the engine is not turning over as fast while cranking. I charged the batteries and let them sit for 2 days disconnected then load tested them they both tested good, the batteries are about 4 months old. The dome lights won't come on when the doors are opened and the automatic lights won't turn on automatically, nor will the key in the ignition switch warming chime. If I play with the key switch the interior lights will turn on but the chime will not work. Could the key switch or ignition switch be causing the longer starts and the interior/auto lights issue? I still haven't checked the glow plug or module yet, with temps in the 90s could the glow plugs be causing this?
Update replaced, ignition switch, both positive battery terminals and oiled door latch, battery cables are in good shape no signs of wear or corrosion. I checked the start time and its start right at 2:15 seconds, for some reason the engine doesn't sound like it is turning as fast at it use to, the starter is prob 5 years old. The dome lights, key reminder chime, and auto headlights are still not working. Dome lights don't work when any door is opened. Could the key cylinder be causing some of these issues? I will check grounds this weekends, any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Most long starts are high pressure oil related. You need to monitor ICP as you need to get to 500 psi before the injectors are commanded on. RPM is important, I think you need 150-ish so if your starter is sluggish that can be an issue. Fuel filling the bowl quickly is also something to look at. I will guess your chime, headlights, key switch are not related to the long start issue.
You can also try starting with the belt off, not to run it long but just to see how fast it starts that way. Sometimes a sticking A/C compressor clutch slows the cranking speed.
Mark I read a post where you mentioned that the ICP voltage should be 0.80 or above, today I noticed while idling the ICV would drop to 0.70 to 0.75 then back up to 0.8 and up. Could this be a sign of a failing ICP sensor. Took the truck on a 160 mile round trip ride and it ran well. Some starts were normal some sounded sluggish. I will try to remove the belt and see if it gets better. I did monitor the ICP psi and it never dipped below 550ish at idle. I tried to monitor rpm at turnover from what I could see it was 160 ish.
Edit:
Yesterday and today the truck started like she should, difference ICV was .95 to 1.0 at idle. I think i may have found the problem I have a ICP sensor on it's way.
Last edited by fordtruckrodder; Oct 20, 2025 at 08:24 AM.
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