Power Steering Box Leaking
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 56
Likes: 12
Power Steering Box Leaking
So i plan to get it fixed soon, probably in the next month. My question is should i allow my mechanic to do it that works on classics, or should i do it my self?
but to hold off until then, should i continue to fill it up every once and awhile? And cleaning my underbody? Or is there something i could add to slow the leak down?
but to hold off until then, should i continue to fill it up every once and awhile? And cleaning my underbody? Or is there something i could add to slow the leak down?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,646
Likes: 352
From: Albuquerque
most likely it's leaking around the bottom seal/ bushing. If your guy is good he might put new stuff in but they tend to do it again. It was a disign flaw with not enough support for the shaft. I gave up on mine and went with a Red Head unit. Much tougher although a bit pricey. But it will last forever. Flush it out regaurdless before running to get the junk out so you don't ruin the new seals/bearings.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 56
Likes: 12
most likely it's leaking around the bottom seal/ bushing. If your guy is good he might put new stuff in but they tend to do it again. It was a disign flaw with not enough support for the shaft. I gave up on mine and went with a Red Head unit. Much tougher although a bit pricey. But it will last forever. Flush it out regaurdless before running to get the junk out so you don't ruin the new seals/bearings.
ill have to look into this!
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 605
Likes: 156
From: NJ
I was going to try and rebuild mine a few years ago, but when I looked into doing it, there is a lot of bearings in there. If you lose 1 you're up a creek with no paddle. I ended up getting lucky and found one at a swap meet for $200 bucks new in box.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,266
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Here is some info on how to replace the seals.
ADVICE: Remove the pitman arm. Remove the snap ring. Thread the nut back on just a couple of turns. Crank the engine, and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, until the pump pressure pops the seals and spacers out. The nut keeps the seals and spacers on the shaft, in correct order and orientation. Have a pan to catch all the fluid.
Keep your old seals and spacers. Lay them out, in order, and oriented correctly, and then photograph them. You may need some of them. The kit can come with different thickness spacers, and might not be the same as the old ones. Fortunately, the spacers can be reused. The nut on pressure removal trick keeps you from using a screw to remove both seals and possible save one.
"It’s done before with the box on the bench, I think it can be done on vehicle? 2wd truck gonna be a PITA to get to it.
Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal.Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too.
Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process. (you can also try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) turn the wheel to the left and start the engine, it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble.)
To replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening). Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal (piece of PVC pipe) and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring. Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it.
If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or tubing too.
The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly.
The input shaft (F3AZ-3E502-A) & sector shaft (D7AZ-3E501-A) seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores.
Seal kit, steering gear sector shaft
Parts list #64, With gear ID SPA-AB, AJ, AN, BN, BS, BX, CC, CN
Basically this covers all 73-79 2WD F100-350 w/powersteering
D7AZ-3E501-A.. Sector Shaft Seal Kit
Last dealer cost $29.41 List $43.71
So try the dealership OR ……
Parts International, Farmers Branch, TX has 50 (972) 241-8730
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 19 (800) 543-4959
Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA has 5 (610) 929-3683
Freese Motor Inc., Monticello, IA has 4 (319) 465-3541
Herb Chambers Ford, Westboro, MA has 2 (508) 366-8311
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...+steering+seal
Steering box INPUT seal…78 F250. Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part # F3AZ-3E502-AInput Shaft Seal Kit…2wd Undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box. Drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column.
Red Head. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/
Blue Top https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/
ADVICE: Remove the pitman arm. Remove the snap ring. Thread the nut back on just a couple of turns. Crank the engine, and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, until the pump pressure pops the seals and spacers out. The nut keeps the seals and spacers on the shaft, in correct order and orientation. Have a pan to catch all the fluid.
Keep your old seals and spacers. Lay them out, in order, and oriented correctly, and then photograph them. You may need some of them. The kit can come with different thickness spacers, and might not be the same as the old ones. Fortunately, the spacers can be reused. The nut on pressure removal trick keeps you from using a screw to remove both seals and possible save one.
"It’s done before with the box on the bench, I think it can be done on vehicle? 2wd truck gonna be a PITA to get to it.
Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal.Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too.
Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process. (you can also try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) turn the wheel to the left and start the engine, it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble.)
To replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening). Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal (piece of PVC pipe) and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring. Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it.
If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or tubing too.
The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly.
The input shaft (F3AZ-3E502-A) & sector shaft (D7AZ-3E501-A) seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores.
Seal kit, steering gear sector shaft
Parts list #64, With gear ID SPA-AB, AJ, AN, BN, BS, BX, CC, CN
Basically this covers all 73-79 2WD F100-350 w/powersteering
D7AZ-3E501-A.. Sector Shaft Seal Kit
Last dealer cost $29.41 List $43.71
So try the dealership OR ……
Parts International, Farmers Branch, TX has 50 (972) 241-8730
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 19 (800) 543-4959
Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA has 5 (610) 929-3683
Freese Motor Inc., Monticello, IA has 4 (319) 465-3541
Herb Chambers Ford, Westboro, MA has 2 (508) 366-8311
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...+steering+seal
Steering box INPUT seal…78 F250. Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part # F3AZ-3E502-AInput Shaft Seal Kit…2wd Undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box. Drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column.
Red Head. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/
Blue Top https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 56
Likes: 12
Here is some info on how to replace the seals.
ADVICE: Remove the pitman arm. Remove the snap ring. Thread the nut back on just a couple of turns. Crank the engine, and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, until the pump pressure pops the seals and spacers out. The nut keeps the seals and spacers on the shaft, in correct order and orientation. Have a pan to catch all the fluid.
Keep your old seals and spacers. Lay them out, in order, and oriented correctly, and then photograph them. You may need some of them. The kit can come with different thickness spacers, and might not be the same as the old ones. Fortunately, the spacers can be reused. The nut on pressure removal trick keeps you from using a screw to remove both seals and possible save one.
"It’s done before with the box on the bench, I think it can be done on vehicle? 2wd truck gonna be a PITA to get to it.
Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal.Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too.
Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process. (you can also try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) turn the wheel to the left and start the engine, it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble.)
To replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening). Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal (piece of PVC pipe) and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring. Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it.
If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or tubing too.
The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly.
The input shaft (F3AZ-3E502-A) & sector shaft (D7AZ-3E501-A) seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores.
Seal kit, steering gear sector shaft
Parts list #64, With gear ID SPA-AB, AJ, AN, BN, BS, BX, CC, CN
Basically this covers all 73-79 2WD F100-350 w/powersteering
D7AZ-3E501-A.. Sector Shaft Seal Kit
Last dealer cost $29.41 List $43.71
So try the dealership OR ……
Parts International, Farmers Branch, TX has 50 (972) 241-8730
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 19 (800) 543-4959
Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA has 5 (610) 929-3683
Freese Motor Inc., Monticello, IA has 4 (319) 465-3541
Herb Chambers Ford, Westboro, MA has 2 (508) 366-8311
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...+steering+seal
Steering box INPUT seal…78 F250. Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part # F3AZ-3E502-AInput Shaft Seal Kit…2wd Undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box. Drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column.
Red Head. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/
Blue Top https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/
ADVICE: Remove the pitman arm. Remove the snap ring. Thread the nut back on just a couple of turns. Crank the engine, and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, until the pump pressure pops the seals and spacers out. The nut keeps the seals and spacers on the shaft, in correct order and orientation. Have a pan to catch all the fluid.
Keep your old seals and spacers. Lay them out, in order, and oriented correctly, and then photograph them. You may need some of them. The kit can come with different thickness spacers, and might not be the same as the old ones. Fortunately, the spacers can be reused. The nut on pressure removal trick keeps you from using a screw to remove both seals and possible save one.
"It’s done before with the box on the bench, I think it can be done on vehicle? 2wd truck gonna be a PITA to get to it.
Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal.Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too.
Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process. (you can also try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) turn the wheel to the left and start the engine, it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble.)
To replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening). Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal (piece of PVC pipe) and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring. Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it.
If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or tubing too.
The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly.
The input shaft (F3AZ-3E502-A) & sector shaft (D7AZ-3E501-A) seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores.
Seal kit, steering gear sector shaft
Parts list #64, With gear ID SPA-AB, AJ, AN, BN, BS, BX, CC, CN
Basically this covers all 73-79 2WD F100-350 w/powersteering
D7AZ-3E501-A.. Sector Shaft Seal Kit
Last dealer cost $29.41 List $43.71
So try the dealership OR ……
Parts International, Farmers Branch, TX has 50 (972) 241-8730
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 19 (800) 543-4959
Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA has 5 (610) 929-3683
Freese Motor Inc., Monticello, IA has 4 (319) 465-3541
Herb Chambers Ford, Westboro, MA has 2 (508) 366-8311
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...+steering+seal
Steering box INPUT seal…78 F250. Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part # F3AZ-3E502-AInput Shaft Seal Kit…2wd Undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box. Drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column.
Red Head. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/
Blue Top https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,266
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Yes if you pull it just to replace the seals, you might as well get a Red Head or Blue Top and go new and better/upgraded design.
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Cross-Country
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what system would you recommend? Blue or Red?
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,266
Likes: 5,822
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Well if I was personally buying one of them I believe I would go with Red Head...why just because I have read about more people going with them versus Blue Top. No real good, bad or otherwise, just more people have used them. I think they were the 1st ones to be on the market and do the upgrades they do.
But one thing for, as soon as you get the new one in hand, make sure get the old one OFF ASAP and get it sent it back to get your core charge $ back. Also follow the manafactures bleeding instructions to the letter.
But one thing for, as soon as you get the new one in hand, make sure get the old one OFF ASAP and get it sent it back to get your core charge $ back. Also follow the manafactures bleeding instructions to the letter.
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 70
Likes: 18
From: PNW
I just put a Red Head in and happy it is still good, after reading a lot of BAD reviews on them lately, from ashop that installed a lot of Red Heads, had to warranty them, and gave up on them. they now use Blue Tops only. But you are on the right track having someone else do it. i did it myself. it's ok if you have an engine hoist to drop the new unit down into place. I would pay somebody next time. It wasn't easy. And I would buy a Red Head to stay on the safe side. EDIT DID I SAY THAT?? I WOULD NOT buy Red Head, I would buy the Blue Top!!!!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 56
Likes: 12
they responded Monday morning. With a full answer. No waiting around for a week or anything.
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 70
Likes: 18
From: PNW
for anyone wondering what Red Head told him, yes, they are centered, so remember where your pitman arm was when you took it off, it was probably centered if you drove your truck into the garage in a straight line, and the pitman arm will go back on in the same spot. there is a notch or cam, or whatever that will make sure it's where it's supposed to be if it's close
peace
peace
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