Additionally, I wanted to add an old link where longevity mods were discussed ("how to make a lifer truck"). I think it was a pretty good list back then. I think that I can now say ....... I had a plan, I implemented the plan, and the plan worked!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-of-6-0-a.html

Just to address the coolant issue first, and then the other work will be listed below: Added a coolant filter proactively (I switched to Rotella ELC Ultra coolant immediately after the 100k mile warranty period, and it even looked like the Ford Gold). The possibility of a plugged oil cooler was my #1 concern although I really didn't resolve this completely until 103k miles!

Just to fill in a few details on my modifications for reliability over the years:

• At 9.5k miles, new EBP sensor on a recall.
• CCV filter (avoids oil soaked CAC boots) at 26k miles, and upgraded CAC boots at 71.7k miles, proactively (never had a boot blow off).
• New FICM - 67.5k miles, original one threw a code and was covered by the 5 yr/100k mile Emissions Warranty (5 years / 100k miles). I immediately sent the old one to FICMRepair.com to be upgraded, and then got a tune on it from PowerHungryPerformance.
• Installed the upgraded OEM standpipes and dummy plugs (warranty), and installed the upgraded (OEM one-piece) STC fitting (warranty) at 81k miles. This was my second significant concern.
• OEM blue fuel pressure regulator spring at 81k miles, proactively (my fuel pressure was acceptable, but close to the minimum). This was my third significant concern.
• BPD EGR cooler at approximately 100k miles, proactively as well (original never leaked)! The original cooler was one of my more significant concerns also, but waited on the timing so I could do all the big ticket items at once!!
• Upgraded OEM oil cooler at approximately 100k miles (the one with the extra coolant row). I also did this pro-actively because I KNEW how important cooling was/is to this engine!
• I got apprx. 100k miles on stock head bolts, but proactively upgraded them to studs when I added the tow tunes (along with the necessary prep of head and block surfaces). Who knows if studs would have been needed if I had stayed stock. I didn't "hot-rod" all that much.
• Note that the additional work when doing the head studs (EGR cooler and oil cooler replacements) eliminated my fourth and final significant concerns.
• Just because of the stud work, I went ahead and installed new glow plugs, new glow plug harnesses, new CMP and CKP sensors, upgraded oil cooler. new injector D-ring kit, new radiator and heater hoses, and exhaust manifold gaskets.
• DynaTrac Pro-steer ball joints at apprx. 100k miles as an upgrade because of some difficult terrain that is always encountered on hunting trips (these have been FANTASTIC btw)!
• After apprx. 100k miles (IIRC) when my water pump leaked, I switched to one from BPD.
• 103k miles and switched to Rotella ELC Ultra coolant.
• Power steering filter at apprx. 200k - proactively.
• After 184k miles when my radiator leaked, I switched to one from BPD.
• Around 190k miles, new ICP, EBP, EGR valve (just because accurate sensors are VERY important in this engine).
• After 198k miles, turbo failed and installed one from KCTurbo.
• After a couple of new EGR valves, the last new replacement was at 198k miles - all proactively.
• After 210k miles, installed a stainless steel "wye" in the hoses under the degas bottle - guess what ..... another proactive mod.
• At 215k miles, complete new HFCM (I got a good deal on it).
• After 227k miles, installed external fuel pump relay (original hadn't failed yet) - again a proactive decision.
• 232k miles, 6.4L starter
• Front axle U-joints at 238k miles.

In the first 100k miles, the only failures I had were the FICM (mentioned earlier at just under 68k miles IIRC, but covered by the Emissions Warranty), and at 30k miles I replaced Right Front Hub assembly (passenger side) due to an EARLY failure. Note that the driver's side lasted until 200k miles.

Note that there were multiple (much needed) EGR valve cleanings within the first 100k miles of driving! I had already bought a spare EGR valve to always carry with me (bought at about the 1 year mark) due to the bad track record that they already had of failing. That came in very handy!

I harpooned my fuel tank at 27k miles and ultimately (much later) installed a sump before the pick-up foot broke off.

Also eventually did the snow plow fan clutch (221k miles). I have no idea really if it really helped me or not, based on the fact that I didn't idle much (but I did install the high idle mod for when I did).

Estimating that all the above was in the $5-7k total cost range (actual dollars spent along the way, not current dollars). Excellent value for the longevity.

Reliability has not been an "impossible dream"! In fact, IMO it hasn't even been all that burdensome of a cost, or of labor ...........................

EDIT: just to list some other miscellaneous small repairs and upgrades (bored this afternoon):
20" wheels.
aftermarket differential covers.
metal hot-side CAC tube.
aftermarket intake elbow.
Banks downpipe and exhaust.
bump stops.
cab and body mount bushings at around 210k miles.
degas bottle.
at apprx. 225k miles, pulleys (including water pump pulley), tensioner, belts.
thermostat, hoses.
several alternators and a few batteries, brake work (calipers, pads, hoses, upgraded ART rotors, and MULTIPLE brake fluid flushes, etc), and way too many tires, lol (oh and upgraded battery cables).
shocks (Bilstein) and steering stabilizer (Bilstein).
springs.
tie rods, drag links, sway bar at around 210k miles.
axle seals.
pinion bearing seal at 192k miles.
A/C clutch plate.
a lot of quality time together, lol!

 

I'd also rather install an external relay than pay one of the circuit board repair places to proactively replace the one in the CJB. Stupid design. I looked in the tech folder, but didn't see instructions. Are there any good links on how to properly do this?
Thanks!

 

No, there are not. I think Mark wrote up what he did ... somewhere.

I started a video of different ways to do this, depending on your model year. It's a stupid design, where other vehicle platforms within Ford at the same time use a replaceable relay. What hindered my completing the video was my hard drive corrupting many of my video files and iMovie files. And it happened twice. Then my life got crazy.

Mark and a few others have asked me to see if I can finish it. And it would probably be one of the first I do, if I get time. There are several threads within this site where I've discussed this and provided diagrams.

The early trucks like mine can have a few wires spliced and cut behind the CJB to make the HFCM heater relay become the fuel pump relay. Or you can put a relay in the cab based on existing wiring, which is simple. Or you can add a relay in the engine compartment, especially if you have the belief you need more amps. The HFCM at full pressure uses 5 amps. It's not a high-load circuit.








It's not like I didn't have just a few videos in progress. I usually had 6 to 8 videos being worked on at the same time. Wiping out all that work sort of takes the wind out of your sails. And this is a partial list, some made, some not.

 

I think I did the write-up on the ORG, I'll look.

EDIT: Here is the link for the external fuel pump relay installation (this is simply how I did it, and it definitely wasn't a sophisticated piece of work .......just functional!):

https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...relay.1383012/

 

Yeah, there are tons of information in that other thread, including parts. And a few diagrams that I had on my other computer, which failed first.

Two hard drives on two different computers screwing with your data gets biblical.

 

I'm glad my computer has held up as long as it has. Reminds me that I should do a backup .................. I'd hate to lose all this STUFF!

I couldn't get a search to find it, but I had a link to that thread in my spreadsheet!!

 

Good report but I've always been interested with true reliability from the factory setup and not requiring modifications. Reason why I have "All Stock" in my trucks description with now 316k miles.

 

From my point of view, it's hard to say when a failure trend is present. It appears some have issues under 200k, while others make it to 800k. The 800k guys tend to be haulers, and when you consider relay contact, coil, or surge suppression failure, it's more likely a result in de-energizing frequency. Another contributor is what's happening with the fuel pump motor and its internal surge suppression.

When a DC motor is de-powered, it turns into a generator, and there is a back surge. And there is arcing at the contacts when they break. So it's probably a combination of both. Which is why, if the relay is still working well, using a secondary replaceable relay to take the "load" becomes a good method for dealing with this.

A graph from the unfinished video. The undamped voltage when the relay opens (if not dampened). That's a pretty good arc 'snap'.



So if the suppression (diode, resistor, or whatever) fails, the contacts won't take much of this. Contacts do need some arcing; it's how they self-clean.

So maybe the 200k guy has started and stopped his truck as many times as the 800k long hauler.


These little friggin relays were designed for power windows or sunroofs. By specs, it should be good for 100,000 cycles, minimum. The notes do say that external suppression can change the characteristics, and Ford and Racor did use external suppression - BOTH!





Yeah, a lot of information was gathered, along with the video work. I'd have to yank out my CJB and redo the work to get what was lost. I feel my blood pressure rising as I type this.

 

I also plan to convert my trucks to an external relay.

But I always have the materials with me to supply the inertia switch and thus the fuel pump with power.

 

Me too. Pretty simple.

 

Man…after reading your first post here I think I don’t want to figure that out for mine…bought my 2005 Excursion 6.0 in early 2014 with 84k miles. Odometer is now at 344k miles…and I mostly stopped driving it in 2022 😬

So that’s at least 52 oil changes, 26 fuel filters, 10 trans fluid/filter, 5 diff and transfer case fluid changes, at about $…nope, not gonna do it. Especially once I start to think about fuel cost… lol

 

Right!!??

Not high level math, lol, but I had never quantified it all before either.

 

US guys are talking about fuel costs.

Come to me, you'll have tears in your eyes.

 

LOL! Good point Hartwig, it is insensitive of us to whine so much!!

 

I’ll get to find out first hand in a year. Heading to the Garmisch-Partenkirchen area for Oktoberfest next year. Will be my first trip to Germany.