Headlights Harness (Again)
First, I was driving home the other night and the headlights went out about half way. Passed cops, was lucky and they didn't stop me, but I pulled over and they came back on. I read it's common in these trucks so I'm looking for a relay harness for the brighter and reliable lights. I found a few on Amazon, my preferred place to buy (I have the card) and was wondering if either of this will work?
I ask because I see it's a 'LED' conversion harness. I may switch to LED's but will it also work for my current halogens? Is there anything specific I need to pay attention for when shopping LED headlights? These work?
Thanks as always!
high amp loads like the actual power to operate the head lights. Stock as Ford did it was that power was directed to the head lights through the headlight switch. The head light switch has a circuit breaker that is intended to kick off if power draw is too great, but it resets unlike a fuse, so you don't suddenly loose all lighting, like at night at 60 mph.
The harness of this kit only uses the same feed to switch relays on / off, and the relays direct battery power to the head lights. The kit only needs the use of one original head light plug, so the other is taped up. You will likely need to drill two holes in the radiator support near the truck battery to mount the relays, they are pretty common relays. The kit even has a fuse holder and fuse in the wire that has an eye to attach at the battery positive terminal. The fuse is to protect the power lead from a short circuit that might happen in a wreck, or other accident, just like other fuses. Kit has zip ties, etc for install.
Sample instructions found online
- 1. Disconnect the battery for safety.
- 2. Unplug the headlight connectors from headlight bulbs.
- 3. Plug in the removed female headlight connector on the passenger side into the male connector of the new harness.
- 4. Plug the new headlight connectors onto the headlight bulbs. Route to drivers side first. Ground the black ground wire to the core support.
- 5. Mount relays in an appropriate location on the core support above the passenger headlight.
- 6. Route the red wires to a battery source.
- 7. The old driver’s side headlight connector will not be used, it can be taped up.
- 8. Reconnect battery.
- 9. Turn on headlight and check if they operate correctly.
- For best performance we recommend the use of dialectic grease on all electronic connectors
If you do much night driving, trips, you might get and carry a couple extra relays just to have.
When disconnecting & reconnecting the battery, I always do the negative terminal first when disconnecting, and last when reconnecting.
Was in 1980s / early 1990s ... I had put two new head lights in my '77 seeking better light as the OEMs had dimmed, I never looked close at the OEMs then as I recall, I just put the "Plus 25"s in. They were advertised as brighter, yet DOT approved. I had no light meter, but they seemed brighter, I was happy. Brighter usually requires more amps.
December 2013, after retiring from the state, I went to work at a part time job at Advance Auto, and by then I very seldom drove the '77 (especially at night) as I had other vehicles (newer, better gas mileage, etc). I had noticed the '77s head lights seemed dim but I figured was just because I'd gotten used to newer vehicles head lights. I pulled into the parking lot, predawn, and another employee was standing outside enjoying a smoke (?) and he busted out laughing. I asked what was funny. He said my head lights were lighting up the radiator more than the road. I never had looked so close at them, but I did then. Turned them back on, the whole front end lit up behind the head lights. Most all of the silver reflecting coating inside the head lights was in a pile of silver flakes laying in the sealed beam in the bottom and as much light was free to go out the back side of the sealed beams as out the front lenses.
I bought two new sealed beams that day, I forget exactly which ones, but were Sylvania Xtra Vision sealed beams. I put them in that afternoon and the next morning about same time, I drove the '77 to work. WOW!
Bill was there waiting, grinning, asked me how was different. I told him "Where I felt like a blind man driving yesterday, I felt like I was setting the road and ditches on fire today."
He said those others shouldn't pass inspection, and I said they wouldn't if checked but if an inspection mechanic just looked to see if they worked in daylight, they might slip through.Bill took those two old head lights that had loose reflector material in them and hung them in his camper as ceiling lights. Said they worked great.
Last edited by tbear853; Sep 13, 2025 at 09:45 AM. Reason: corrected myself
Unless you have direct experience with a good LED headlight, I wouldn’t trust Amazon Chinese cheap with something critical. There’s also the question of actual brightness on the road, not necessarily Lumens. I forget the correct terms, but a lot of LEDs appear bright in pictures, but the color spectrum isn’t as effective as DOT halogens.
Also remember that LEDs are known to draw less current and be more efficient, which means less heat. Have fun chipping ice off a plastic housing that doesn’t produce enough heat to thaw itself.
Ok, I’m gonna go be grumpy and old somewhere else now. Lol
On second thought, I do hate LED head lights, especially in head lights, driving lights, light bars on lifted pick ups meeting me at night. Before retiring, LEDs were starting to be seen as head lights ... and unless I was busy, if a driver failed to dim them when meeting or following me or other drivers at night, was a good stroke there. For the record, I was never a fan of blue emergency lighting / strobes / etc on our police cars either. Red was hugely better as it sent a message to drivers and did not inhibit my ability to see at a scene at 2AM. My dept switched in 1982 after some legislator got a bill through changing state law ... and I soon grew to hate the change.
For me hunting is when I have the most lights, but aside from side arm light, try to keep everything else below 100 lumen, preferably 10 when navigating trails in the dark.
I guess this is how we know we’re old. And speaking of loud pipes….
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Getting the upgraded harness with relays should help brightness a good bit anyway? If that's really the case, I may just return the LED's and not even fool with trying them out.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
high amp loads like the actual power to operate the head lights. Stock as Ford did it was that power was directed to the head lights through the headlight switch. The head light switch has a circuit breaker that is intended to kick off if power draw is too great, but it resets unlike a fuse, so you don't suddenly loose all lighting, like at night at 60 mph.
The harness of this kit only uses the same feed to switch relays on / off, and the relays direct battery power to the head lights. The kit only needs the use of one original head light plug, so the other is taped up. You will likely need to drill two holes in the radiator support near the truck battery to mount the relays, they are pretty common relays. The kit even has a fuse holder and fuse in the wire that has an eye to attach at the battery positive terminal. The fuse is to protect the power lead from a short circuit that might happen in a wreck, or other accident, just like other fuses. Kit has zip ties, etc for install.
Sample instructions found online
- 1. Disconnect the battery for safety.
- 2. Unplug the headlight connectors from headlight bulbs.
- 3. Plug in the removed female headlight connector on the passenger side into the male connector of the new harness.
- 4. Plug the new headlight connectors onto the headlight bulbs. Route to drivers side first. Ground the black ground wire to the core support.
- 5. Mount relays in an appropriate location on the core support above the passenger headlight.
- 6. Route the red wires to a battery source.
- 7. The old driver’s side headlight connector will not be used, it can be taped up.
- 8. Reconnect battery.
- 9. Turn on headlight and check if they operate correctly.
- For best performance we recommend the use of dialectic grease on all electronic connectors
If you do much night driving, trips, you might get and carry a couple extra relays just to have.
When disconnecting & reconnecting the battery, I always do the negative terminal first when disconnecting, and last when reconnecting.
Was in 1980s / early 1990s ... I had put two new head lights in my '77 seeking better light as the OEMs had dimmed, I never looked close at the OEMs then as I recall, I just put the "Plus 25"s in. They were advertised as brighter, yet DOT approved. I had no light meter, but they seemed brighter, I was happy. Brighter usually requires more amps.
December 2013, after retiring from the state, I went to work at a part time job at Advance Auto, and by then I very seldom drove the '77 (especially at night) as I had other vehicles (newer, better gas mileage, etc). I had noticed the '77s head lights seemed dim but I figured was just because I'd gotten used to newer vehicles head lights. I pulled into the parking lot, predawn, and another employee was standing outside enjoying a smoke (?) and he busted out laughing. I asked what was funny. He said my head lights were lighting up the radiator more than the road. I never had looked so close at them, but I did then. Turned them back on, the whole front end lit up behind the head lights. Most all of the silver reflecting coating inside the head lights was in a pile of silver flakes laying in the sealed beam in the bottom and as much light was free to go out the back side of the sealed beams as out the front lenses.
I bought two new sealed beams that day, I forget exactly which ones, but were Sylvania Xtra Vision sealed beams. I put them in that afternoon and the next morning about same time, I drove the '77 to work. WOW!
Bill was there waiting, grinning, asked me how was different. I told him "Where I felt like a blind man driving yesterday, I felt like I was setting the road and ditches on fire today."
He said those others shouldn't pass inspection, and I said they wouldn't if checked but if an inspection mechanic just looked to see if they worked in daylight, they might slip through.Bill took those two old head lights that had loose reflector material in them and hung them in his camper as ceiling lights. Said they worked great.
Thank you for that! I will literally use it tomorrow when I'm going through putting the harness in.
I bought:
The reviews are pretty good over all, they look pretty sharp in the pics people posted on their classic cars and trucks. Also listed as DOT approved, but might be iffy. lol
I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rod_image&th=1
The reviews are pretty good over all, they look pretty sharp in the pics people posted on their classic cars and trucks. Also listed as DOT approved, but might be iffy. lol

Oh yea, loud pipes ....












