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What’s up, fellow bullnose owners? So I am trying to figure out how the starter is grounded. Some articles say that the starter is grounded simply because it is attached to the engine block. That’s how mine is right now.
Background: So I tried to start the truck today and it was a no go. When I turned the key, the solenoid started clicking. Not sure why the brand new Motorcraft solenoid is not working…. but there it is. I figured I would try and bypass the solenoid using a spare battery cable.
I attached the battery cable to the side where the positive battery cable connects to the solenoid, Then I touched that cable to the side where the cable runs down to the starter. Nothing happened, except the little spark.
The negative battery cable goes to the frame and then to the engine block.
Positive wire from the battery goes to the side of the solenoid.
Of course my starter wire comes from the other side of the starter solenoid.
Questions are : Do I have to ground the starter itself with a wire? If so, where do I attach it to the starter and I imagine this wire goes to the block?
What’s up, fellow bullnose owners? So I am trying to figure out how the starter is grounded. Some articles say that the starter is grounded simply because it is attached to the engine block. That’s how mine is right now.
Background: So I tried to start the truck today and it was a no go. When I turned the key, the solenoid started clicking. Not sure why the brand new Motorcraft solenoid is not working…. but there it is. I figured I would try and bypass the solenoid using a spare battery cable.
I attached the battery cable to the side where the positive battery cable connects to the solenoid, Then I touched that cable to the side where the cable runs down to the starter. Nothing happened, except the little spark.
The negative battery cable goes to the frame and then to the engine block.
Positive wire from the battery goes to the side of the solenoid.
Of course my starter wire comes from the other side of the starter solenoid.
Questions are : Do I have to ground the starter itself with a wire? If so, where do I attach it to the starter and I imagine this wire goes to the block?
Pictures are always nice… Thanks
Starter should be grounded thru the block. That being said you should have a ground triangle. 3ground wires, 1-block to frame,1frame to body,1 body to block.if you are missing one or more of those you may have problems.
Max will be along shortly to post some photos of stock grounding wires.
I am here to try and convince you to upgrade your starter to a newer style PMGR starter.... If you do find out you need a new starter.
This also solves the problem with the starter solenoid failures, as the solenoid is downgrade to just providing power to the new PMGR starter solenoid mounted on the newer style PMGR starter
What year?
Engine size?
If you remove the large wire from the starter solenoid, going to the starter... Does the starter solenoid still make a rapid clicking sound?
Meaning does it work fine without any load on it.
It could be something as simple as cleaning the battery connections.
Hood to the body
Body to the engine block
Engine block to frame
Frame to negative side of battery
And a whole host of other grounds
What about going from a bolt that is holding the starter on to the bolt holding the ground wire going to the negative side of the battery terminal?
All wires and parts are brand new
so long as you have that Block to frame, you should be ok as far as grounds go. Now with todays electronics out of China don’t be surprised to find your new solenoid is the problem it happens a lot these days. The clicking sounds like low battery, or bad cables. Your battery should be over 12.7 volts i have had several vehicles that would not start with less. Some will, but many wont.
Guys… thank you for your suggestions. I appreciate them.
Question was, Did the negative wire from the battery go to the frame and then to the starter. If so, where did it connect to on the starter?
seems to me, I remember the wire going to the frame. A 1/2” of wire sheathing was removed and a piece of metal encircled the bare wire. There was a hole on that piece of metal in which a bolt secured it to the frame. The wire continued to the starter.
Guys… thank you for your suggestions. I appreciate them.
Question was, Did the negative wire from the battery go to the frame and then to the starter. If so, where did it connect to on the starter?
seems to me, I remember the wire going to the frame. A 1/2” of wire sheathing was removed and a piece of metal encircled the bare wire. There was a hole on that piece of metal in which a bolt secured it to the frame. The wire continued to the starter.
where did it connect to at the starter?
I think your question was answered. The starter is bolted in. The engine is the ground then the engine is grounded to the frame and the frame to the ground strap to the negative battery terminal.
Ford saved about 60 cents per vehicle by attaching the ground near the front of the engine, versus running a slightly longer cable all the way to the starter case. The engine block makes a great conductor, so this arrangement works perfectly fine.
The problem could be as simple as a marginal cable between the battery (+) post and the starter relay (aka solenoid). For whatever reason, this short cable seems to be very prone to failure. I’m not suggesting you rush out and replace this cable on a whim. Instead, you can test the entire starter system in just a few minutes as described here:
Another possibility is a marginal ground for the starter relay. The actuating coil is grounded through the inner fender. The ground path for the fender itself was barely adequate when new, and is prone to corrosion. You can bypass this potential trouble spot with a test lead between the starter relay mount and the battery (-) post.
I think your question was answered. The starter is bolted in. The engine is the ground then the engine is grounded to the frame and the frame to the ground strap to the negative battery terminal.
Originally Posted by kr98664
Ford saved about 60 cents per vehicle by attaching the ground near the front of the engine, versus running a slightly longer cable all the way to the starter case. The engine block makes a great conductor, so this arrangement works perfectly fine.
The problem could be as simple as a marginal cable between the battery (+) post and the starter relay (aka solenoid). For whatever reason, this short cable seems to be very prone to failure. I’m not suggesting you rush out and replace this cable on a whim. Instead, you can test the entire starter system in just a few minutes as described here:
Another possibility is a marginal ground for the starter relay. The actuating coil is grounded through the inner fender. The ground path for the fender itself was barely adequate when new, and is prone to corrosion. You can bypass this potential trouble spot with a test lead between the starter relay mount and the battery (-) post.
So people know the 300 six trucks did have the cable go to the top starter bolt after it bolted to the top of the frame rail.
Dave ----
So people know the 300 six trucks did have the cable go to the top starter bolt after it bolted to the top of the frame rail.
Dave ----
The positive cable was clamped down at the frame and then ran back to the single starter connection. But the negative runs from battery to frame, frame to block. Right below that positive clamp. The positive is only clamped at the frame to keep it off the exhaust, no electrical connection can be made there from the positive side. Be careful as stock color for both was black.
Guys… thank you for your suggestions. I appreciate them.
Question was, Did the negative wire from the battery go to the frame and then to the starter. If so, where did it connect to on the starter?
seems to me, I remember the wire going to the frame. A 1/2” of wire sheathing was removed and a piece of metal encircled the bare wire. There was a hole on that piece of metal in which a bolt secured it to the frame. The wire continued to the starter.
where did it connect to at the starter?
To answer your question, no the negative wire did not go to the starter on a v8 equipped truck. It goes to the front pass corner of the engine block like shown in the picture above.
Don't one of you guys with a 6 cylinder have a clear picture of the battery and starter wires ? My picture above is for a 1986 302EFI, as many know. I think the 6 cylinder was slightly different ?
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