When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is amazing how so many people have dirty battery terminals with crystals growing all over them and then wonder why the starter won't crank. The simple battery terminal cleaner for the post and the clamp connector then snug it down with the nut and coat the entire terminal with a bit of grease or oil and that connection remains solid and good for many years. And no crystal buildup neither. It's too easy, I guess.
In the diagram posted above by Max follow connection 14301 from the - battery to a nut on the engine. It's not connected to the starter mounting bolt.
Because he has a v8 and v8 battery cable went to the block. Some one asked where the negative runs and was posted block and the is only true for v8's
Dave. ----
Because he has a v8 and v8 battery cable went to the block. Some one asked where the negative runs and was posted block and the is only true for v8's
Dave. ----
The diagram includes the 300 6cyl. Covers all the gas engines in 1980. I think.
I had the ground from the negative side of the battery going to the frame. Then another wire going from the frame to engine block. I took the wire that was going to the block and rerouted it to a bolt on the starter. Started right up.
Agreed. That’s why I had asked what changed and the starter is now behaving properly.
Let’s say the existing ground cable was attached to a clean spot near the front of the engine block. Even though others have noted that was not the factory connection point for the straight 6, it should have worked just fine. For comparison, that’s how V8 models came from the factory.
If all he did was relocate that same cable to the starter case, I’d suspect something else was intermittent and actually the root cause. For example, one of the battery terminal crimps could be marginal. The disconnect and reconnect may have jostled the bad spot just enough to temporarily re-establish an adequate connection. If that was the case, expect it to fall again at an inconvenient time, such as immediately after knocking over a liquor store.
Reading between the lines, even though the original query was about the cable connection points, the only reason he was asking was because the starter was dead. The latter was the true problem, not whether the cables followed the specific factory routing for that engine model.
First of all, everything is brand new, clean and tightened correctly (see picture above somewhere).
Originally went from negative side of battery to a threaded hole where the pass side engine mount meets the frame, and the other from that point to a bolt hole near lower pass side of engine block. Turned key- nothing.
Someone said it might be a ground. I went back to old pictures of my truck and saw the positive (from solenoid) and negative wire going towards the starter (drawing above). I tried to zoom in on picture and it just got fuzzy.
so, I took the wire from the block and rerouted it to the bottom bolt on the starter, because if I went to the top bolt, it would be too close to exhaust pipe.
it started right up.
I haven’t tried to start it again because I have other electrical issues I’m dealing with. I’m in the process of adding external/internal toothed washers to all my grounds, so they can get a little metal to metal bite. Everything is freshly painted or powder coated.
I’m on the 2 yard line, as far as finishing the truck, but still have a long way to go. What makes it difficult is the learning as I go. I’m not rich. Save a little. fix this. Save a little. Fix that. It’s been on and off for 6 years.
ill Be back I’m sure with another .. how do you do this?
Freshly painted or powder coated surfaces could have prevented a ground connection. Sounds like you have it covered by going directly to the starter mounting bolt.
I just went through this, found it was a bad positive from the battery to the solenoid, I measured 4V at the solenoid and 13.1V on the battery, changed the positive cable and it’s never cranked so hard in its life
Sorry, not having a 6 cylinder, I'm having a hard time understanding why the (ref post #20 diagram) 14431 cable from solenoid would connect to the same spot as the battery ground cable 14301, then that solenoid cable goes onto the Tab on the starter. Must be just the 14431 solenoid cable has an external "clamp" that uses the same bolt at the engine block.
Sure would be nice to have a picture of the correct set up ???
Sorry, not having a 6 cylinder, I'm having a hard time understanding why the (ref post #20 diagram) 14431 cable from solenoid would connect to the same spot as the battery ground cable 14301, then that solenoid cable goes onto the Tab on the starter. Must be just the 14431 solenoid cable has an external "clamp" that uses the same bolt at the engine block.
Sure would be nice to have a picture of the correct set up ???
It is not the same spot. The solinoid cable goes to the positive lug on the starter and the ground goes to the mounting bolt itself for a ground. Or any large block of steel like the block, frame, or body will work!
Here's a picture from the 1986 EVTM. In the lower right of the page it shows both locations for G203. Front corner of the block for all engines except the notation "4.9 6 cyl only" where the same G203 is not on the block, but on the lower starter mounting bolt.
Here is how my 300 / 4.9 cables are run
Where the negative is bolted to the frame and a insulated tab that holds the positive cable both going to the starter.
Picture of starter the front cable is the positive.
Dave ----
