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If you have a dummy light instead of an ammeter, then the resistor is already built in to your cluster. Resistors in alternator exciter circuits are a bypass in case the bulb burns out.
If you simply wire a bulb into the circuit, if the bulb burns out your alternator won’t charge.
With the bypass, you can see that your bulb is burned out when you turn the key, but can still drive the vehicle until you get to replace the bulb.
If you have an ammeter though and are adding your own bulb, it’s not just as simple as adding resistor to the wire.
You have to create a bypass with the resistor.
Even running the stock type alt, I got this compact voltage reg that bolted onto the back of the alt, thus turning that one into a “one wire” and eliminating most of the factory VR wiring
Have seen something like that in the past, but didn’t know any details.
got a link to the one you’re talking about?
The 3G alternator is really not complicated to wire. It is "essentially a 1 wire" alternator, besides the heavy charging wire.. the A wire loops onto the large stud with your charging wire. S goes onto the little tab on the back of the alternator. And I is the only real wire to hook up to your truck. It is green/red and goes to the green/red that was on your voltage regulator (12V in run and start) you should have the heavy charging wire going from the battery + through a 175A mega fuse and on to the charge post on the alternator. I just hooked one up on the 400 in my bronco and the 390 in my F250. Many years ago in did a 3G on the 351W in my early bronco, later to a 4G when I put an explorer front serp system on that 351W. They really are easy.
The rear of the alternator case looks really close to the head.
I always hang the alternator down, pivot on the top and the slider bracket on the bottom. I think it helps the alternator cool.
This pic is the 10si alternator I had on the 390 in my 63 Unibody.
The rear of the alternator case looks really close to the head.
I always hang the alternator down, pivot on the top and the slider bracket on the bottom. I think it helps the alternator cool.
This pic is the 10si alternator I had on the 390 in my 63 Unibody.
FWIW, this running complete 390 is for sale in SoCal.
For what it's worth, one of the reason I went with a 3G upgrade over anything else, was because I could get the lifetime warranty at Autozone/O'Reilys and just swap them out if I ever had any issues. Not to mention, there's usually a store nearby that has them in stock.
3g is called an upgrade for a reason. Simpler, better charging system with half of the wiring. 😬
the voltage reg kit in the link I posted was what I used on the stock alt I was running.... but when I wanted to add dual electric fans and an amp to the stereo, I upgraded to a 3g 95 amp model. wanted to go with more amps but that alternator case was larger and would not fit in my accessory drive...which is a stock serpentine type drive from a 90s 460.
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