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Help! I'm trying to replace the spider gears on my welded Dana 60 diff. But I can't get the big cross pin out. I'm not sure if there is a small retainer pin holding the crosspin. It looks if not so. But the big pin is stuck! I'm out of options, do you guys have an idea?
Cross shaft retainer pins that I've experienced were like short shouldered bolts with a long narrower solid pin extending through the cross shaft carrying spider gears. Straw passing through tells me is none there. I have seen long one wheel burn outs cause a spider gear to heat up and weld itself to the cross shaft, and twist it to break the retainer pin as the shaft spun with the spider gear welded to it.
I looked as close as can at photo, I don't see visible welding but might be the vise jaw is in the way. It is odd that the hole is in line with the pin hole through the cross shaft.
Any sign that the "welder person" also welded the shaft to a spider or spiders too? I guess I'm asking "Are you sure it was purposefully welded" .... or is it maybe just seized to a gear?
Cross shaft retainer pins that I've experienced were like short shouldered bolts with a long narrower solid pin extending through the cross shaft carrying spider gears. Straw passing through tells me is none there. I have seen long one wheel burn outs cause a spider gear to heat up and weld itself to the cross shaft, and twist it to break the retainer pin as the shaft spun with the spider gear welded to it.
I looked as close as can at photo, I don't see visible welding but might be the vise jaw is in the way. It is odd that the hole is in line with the pin hole through the cross shaft.
Any sign that the "welder person" also welded the shaft to a spider or spiders too? I guess I'm asking "Are you sure it was purposefully welded" .... or is it maybe just seized to a gear?
Look close before it's all FUBAR.
Hi tbear853, I'm sure the diff is welded on purpose. There are lumps of welding material on the spider gears. See photo.
Hi tbear853, I'm sure the diff is welded on purpose. There are lumps of welding material on the spider gears. See photo.
I did, even blew it up, but the vise blocked the clearest angle in the first photo. Even if you get the cross shaft out, those spider gears ain't gonna fall out as a unit. I expect you'll end replacing every thing except the two large side carrier bearings and ring and pinion. Don't see any other way myself.
There is a pin in the hole. It is called a Roll Pin or Split Pin. Those type of pins are not solid, there is a hole thru the center. Take a punch that fits the outside hole and drive it thru. I can't remember what size punch you would need.
Alo I would take the ring gear off the housing before you start cutting the gears out. There is also a hole on the side of the housing where the ring gear bolts are that goes thru to the pin. You could use a punch that fits that hole, because the pin does not go all the way thru. Good luck
Yes you have to remove the roll pin which secures the diff pin - you may need to customize a punch to the right diameter and length as most punches are tapered but you will need a straight shank punch. I "turned" mine down with a bench grinder.
Make sure the punch matches the OD of the pin and isn't too small.
Believe Moose4x4 is correct.
If I remember some of the older 60's the roll pin needs to be removed.
There is actually a roll pin punch that has a longer point then a square surfacr, the idea is as you punch out the pin, the point is in the pin and causes it not to get distorted.
Lots of tryin to remember here...lol
I did, even blew it up, but the vise blocked the clearest angle in the first photo. Even if you get the cross shaft out, those spider gears ain't gonna fall out as a unit. I expect you'll end replacing every thing except the two large side carrier bearings and ring and pinion. Don't see any other way myself.
Yeah, you might be right there, but as the spider gears are only tagwelded I will try to brake them loose and get them out and try to save the case itself. To be continued..
