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I'm slowly restoring my 92 F-150. I just got Por-15 on the frame, now I'm preping the firewall for paint. The old seam sealer is extremly sloppy. It doesn't come from Ford like that right? Probably something the previous owener did. Anyways I'm going to try to get it all off with a razor blade. In some places the seam under the old sealer is very tight with no gap. Will just paint be enough or should I re-apply a small bead of sealant?
One other question. I've included a picture of the pitman arm on the steering gear shaft. As you can see it's not all the way up the splines. As long a it's torqued (about 200ft/lbs?) is it not a problem?
That's how Ford did it. On mine, I put a pretty healthy bead of fresh seam sealer (butyl) all over the whole mess again,
after I cleaned out the rust, neutralized it and repainted. Mine was leaking at that seal...
One other question. I've included a picture of the pitman arm on the steering gear shaft. As you can see it's not all the way up the splines. As long a it's torqued (about 200ft/lbs?) is it not a problem?
Thanks.
Yes. It is a tapered fit.
I agree. The seam sealer in the picture looks like it was done at the factory.
Ford did a sloppy job of installing the seam sealer pretty much everywhere. I’ve been removing any loose or cracked sealer and using a paintable urethane sealer.
As for your pitman arm, it should not bottom out on the splines. The shaft is tapered and so is the bore of the pitman arm just like stacking 5 gallon buckets. It will get to a point where it will stop and be tight.
On my 95 F250, I had a death wobble issue and the pitman arm was loose. The nut was bottomed out but the arm still was not tight. I ended up using a washer. Sure, a butcher way of doing something, but it has lasted another 80k and still going. I will fix it right, when the box is worn enough to replace.
Installing a washer is not a butcher way of tightening it up. Now welding it one would be different.
As a tip, do not put anti-seeze on the splines, only use oil or grease. The silver or copper anti-seeze will have enough soft material in it that the arm will become loose over time where the oil or grease will be forced out when tightened.
I would think that if the splines were specced right as well as the pitman arm, then there would be no reason for a washer [to push the arm further up the taper]. So, there is something worn out. I just did not want to screw with it at the time and the used washer in my tool box just kept yelling 'Pick me! Pick me!' Over the 20 plus years I've driven it, it seems to be holding up.
Was there a washer from the factory? Was the nut replaced with the wrong one? I don't know, I purchased this truck when it was two years old so it's highly unlikely someone was there, but who knows.
I believe the right was was to find out why there was so much additional play but I've been known not to follow the rules. I tend to just fix things and call it done.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I did what @HydroDog suggested and removed any cracked/loose sealer, and the ugliest looking parts. I'll reseal were needed.
@1Butcher My pitman nut had a lock washer under it. It looks original to me.
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