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The stock EFI system isn’t going to like those camshafts.
Why would you want the range from 3000-5000rpms?
The computer isn’t going to like the LSA of 110°[/QUOTE]
The original part of this thread was saying that I wanted to switch to a TBI system. The piece that I had replied to had said that they are also speed density, leading to me asking about running a cam. I'm well aware that it won't like a cam, which is why I was planning on switching, but am currently just trying to get the damned thing to run.
Im not sure if Max Capacity is still lurking around, but where is the black wire on your MAF sensor going? Mine is currently ran to the OBD I plug and I'm not sure if that's right. Haynes manual says it runs off somewhere to the TPS but this wiring harness was done at some point and looks like AIDS (as evident by my distributor wires) on top of the other things I've had to roughly guess on.
Mine is currently ran to the OBD I plug and I'm not sure if that's right. Haynes manual says it runs off somewhere to the TPS .
You'll see that the black wire at the test connector is piggy backed with another black wire (with white stripe). That wire does sort of run to the TPS. It is a ground common to most of the ECM input sensors. The actual spot these grounds go "to" is pin 46 of the ECU.
Wiring diagram from Gary's
You'll see that the black wire at the test connector is piggy backed with another black wire (with white stripe). That wire does sort of run to the TPS. It is a ground common to most of the ECM input sensors. The actual spot these grounds go "to" is pin 46 of the ECU.
Wiring diagram from Gary's
Call me a MILF Wiring the way i be saying Man I Love Ford Wiring. God bless America and the EPA XD
So can I just chassis ground this wire or would it be better to hunt it down? I'm not with the truck right now so I don't really know how the sucker is wired off the top of my head.
Trace the blk/w wire to the ECM connector pin 46. In the photo, taken from the gas pedal looking up under the dash so you can see the firewall side, note the black wire (red arrow) next to the MAP signal wire which is a vibrant blue with green, pin 45.
FWIW: ECM connector layout for 1986 EFI 5.0L
Rule of thumb for any 60 pin ECM or PCM, corner #1 is yellow, Opposite corner #60 is black w/white
When it comes to signal grounds, I would not *****-nilly hook a signal ground to the body somewhere. It can cause ground loops. Signal grounds from the sensors should all be grounded to one point by design. You will also find your harness has some shielding wiring, and it is not connected to ground except on one end.
Grounds at different parts of the vehicle can have different levels of quality. In other words, and ground over here, may be a little better than the ground over there. If these grounds are tied together, you will get a small flow of current between them. This small current flow can interfere with small signals from sensors.
Well it is with great pleasure to announce that I officially have no clue what has happened this time. Went back over my wiring, everything was good and set, but now it is a $600 paper weight. Went to work on it yesterday, no starter fluid or anything, and it fired right up, no questions asked. Let it warm up so I could check trans fluid so I could take it for a test drive to make sure the brakes were good and happy now after replacing the drum cylinders. Closed the hood, and the moment my *** touched the bench, it let out two loud *** bangs, and kicked itself into low idle, which I had not realized it had not been there until this moment. After giving it some throttle from the body itself, I hear a whistle, and it drops RPM a little, got back in the cab and gave it a little gas, and then it just died.
TDLR; two bangs, throws itself in low idle, shut off after a little throttle with a slight whistle sound.
My guesses are:
- the mentioned somewhere above coolant temp sensor, but the one for the ECU because I think two different ones were mentioned
- Jumped timing maybe(?). It sat for ~12 years before I got it so maybe the timing chain slipped?
So, have you checked the coolant temp sensor above the T'stat housing for corroded terminals (post 11). I posted a picture above, I think. The other water temp sensor near #5 injector is for the gauge in the dash.
You need to verify there are no corroded terminals.
Can you give us pictures of the engine and battery.
Other thing, would a bad cap inside the ECU. There have been threads over the past few years about a burnt cap on the board in the ECU.
So, have you checked the coolant temp sensor above the T'stat housing for corroded terminals (post 11). I posted a picture above, I think. The other water temp sensor near #5 injector is for the gauge in the dash.
You need to verify there are no corroded terminals.
Can you give us pictures of the engine and battery.
Other thing, would a bad cap inside the ECU. There have been threads over the past few years about a burnt cap on the board in the ECU.
Didn't specifically look at the terminals themselves but the wiring looked fine.
I'll get a picture when I get back out there.
Burnt cap? What do you mean by that?
Didn't specifically look at the terminals themselves but the wiring looked fine.
I'll get a picture when I get back out there.
Burnt cap? What do you mean by that?
Yeah, my old wires looked good too, until I remove the connector. Even the coil terminals looked good, until the truck didn't start. I included the correct metal terminals, if you had to keep it stock. I bought those some 5 years ago or so just in case.
Second pic, is the broken-corroded coil terminals.
