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Sometimes underhood pictures get complicated. I do not know why the OEM's have to be so messy with their underhood routing. Someone must have complained, you will notice now most cars and trucks have a large plastic cover that just covers the mess up.
Just so you know, a few years after taking that picture, I wipe some of the oily gunk off the valve cover. My thought is oily gunk won't rust.
I did read everything you but above, I just don't want to reply individually. MAP sensor does appear to be in one piece. But at some point when I redid the injectors I had only plugged one of the three coupled vacuum lines that are on the top of the plenum. Reconnected those and now it doesn't really want to start so. I had to redo allot of wiring (chipmunks am I right?) so ill definitely look into that anti-corrosion stuff for the connectors I had to mess with.
Should still allow me to run a mild cam, no? Something like a B/E 303?
You are correct. Those aftermarket EFI systems are not emissions compliant, for off-road use only. So they are more forgiving as far as tuning, and can tolerate a more radical cam compared to the factory EFI which is emissions compliant and was tuned for that setup and not much deviation from that.
I did read everything you but above, I just don't want to reply individually. MAP sensor does appear to be in one piece. But at some point when I redid the injectors I had only plugged one of the three coupled vacuum lines that are on the top of the plenum. Reconnected those and now it doesn't really want to start so. I had to redo allot of wiring (chipmunks am I right?) so ill definitely look into that anti-corrosion stuff for the connectors I had to mess with.
FWIW, I keep a Tom Cat mouse block under the seat in the truck. I can still get a bag of them from the local Lot's and More for $6.99, the same price I paid over a decade ago. Had to put another one in the big shed today, saw evidence of mouse chewing up a napkin I use to check oil level on the lawn tractor.
Went out and got more pictures, also, make sure you have the connector plugged in well on the MAP. But I'm sure you've gone back over all the things you touched.
Looks like I have lines coming off the vacuum tree. The fourth one is kind of hard to see. I pulled back the brake booster hose to show it.
Some of those vacuum lines from the T go to this vacuum box near the battery. See the red and black vacuum lines in the upper left in picture. Some guy's have removed some of the sensors on the bottom of that box. Dave may know more about those, I know someone on here talked about a while back. I didn't pay much attention, as I have no need to change any of that.
Some of those vacuum lines from the T go to this vacuum box near the battery. See the red and black vacuum lines in the upper left in picture. Some guy's have removed some of the sensors on the bottom of that box. Dave may know more about those, I know someone on here talked about a while back. I didn't pay much attention, as I have no need to change any of that.
I know about the black box. Lost spark a little bit ago when I was messing with it and that red line had slipped out. Also the four connectors under the thing. What are those for? I thought those were supposed to be jumped together because I couldn't figure out how where they were supposed to be ran. I'll get a picture to show my attempt at redoing this wiring with a guess and a prayer here in a little while.
one side sounds like its cammed and the other side sounds perfectly tame...
Might be worth doing a compression check in case there is an underlying issue. Would hate to see you do the big conversion only to discover the problem remains.
Might be worth doing a compression check in case there is an underlying issue. Would hate to see you do the big conversion only to discover the problem remains.
Gee, for once, Karl has a good idea. Well okay, once again, I should have said...
FWIW, I keep a Tom Cat mouse block under the seat in the truck. I can still get a bag of them from the local Lot's and More for $6.99, the same price I paid over a decade ago. Had to put another one in the big shed today, saw evidence of mouse chewing up a napkin I use to check oil level on the lawn tractor.
Here's mine, Thought I had a beter picture.
i have extra cats 🐱 if anyone is interested. I would be happy to pay for shipping. Just sayin,,,
I'm glad my 86 302EFI runs great. It sittings for weeks on end, but when I would to take it for a drive. I get in, turn the key to "on" to let the fuel pump prime, and start it. Drive away.
Same here. The stock EFI system works perfectly fine. If the Jeep sits for a few weeks or longer, I have to refill the fuel bowl to get it started.
Originally Posted by lackluster_bullnose
Mine is running enough to be considered running, but once it warms up it starts running rich and looks like it’s packing a cummins. I'm thinking maybe the MAP sensor messed up, but I'm not quite sold. Guy before me did a completely true dual, out the side, no X/H pipe, and one side sounds like its cammed and the other side sounds perfectly tame (when it's cold at least, when its hot it just gives up on all that "running normal" stuff).
When the engine first starts it is in a different operating mode than when warm. After the engine gets up to a certain temperature it starts to use the sensors to determine the fuel requirement.
Originally Posted by Max Capacity
If it runs well cold, then why not just replace the bad part causing that. I'm no expert, but there is a water temp sensor in that water pipe above the T stat. That is a cheap part with a new connector compared to the new EFI system and labor.
The guys here can help you trouble shoot your issue. Unless your O2 sensor is bad, or missing ?
…or ask the computer what is wrong instead of replacing parts. Isn’t there self test capability to for this model year?
Originally Posted by lackluster_bullnose
Should still allow me to run a mild cam, no? Something like a B/E 303?
The stock EFI system isn’t going to like those camshafts.
