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Crank, no start. please help

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Old Aug 9, 2025 | 04:47 PM
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Crank, no start. please help

Sorry for the long post in advance. 95 f350 460

In the beginning, the battery light came along with a slow crank to intermittent no start. I had the battery and alternator checked out, all good. I replaced the starter, thinking that was it. Now, it just cranks fine but no start. Neither of the fuel pumps are turning on when I turn the key.

The fuses and relays have all checked out, the inertia switch is pressed down, I've bypassed the electrical by jumping from the battery to the fuel switch. I can hear both of the fuel pumps turn on this way, but I have zero pressure with a gauge at the fuel line. I'm not sure if this would be a fuel pump problem or not.

I went ahead and replaced the switch since I was there. I'm getting ready to replace the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator as a shot in the dark. I have no idea on what else to do. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2025 | 07:33 PM
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Are you getting spark?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2025 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by spurredon
Are you getting spark?
Just did the spark plug test, no spark. Took the ignition coil off and it tested zero ohms with multimeter. Maybe that's the issue?
 

Last edited by PattyCakes60; Aug 10, 2025 at 09:41 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2025 | 10:01 AM
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If your fuel pumps are not coming on, you may have no power to the EEC.
Fuel pumps should come on for 3 seconds when you first turn the key.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2025 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by wwhite
If your fuel pumps are not coming on, you may have no power to the EEC.
Fuel pumps should come on for 3 seconds when you first turn the key.
What can I do to further narrow this down?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2025 | 01:55 PM
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EDIT: Major update, Does the fuel pump run for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition? Sounds like it does not. Sounds like you checked the fuses, all of them?? How about the relay? You can swap one of the other relays as a test. Say the wiper relay, if the wiper still work and the pumps do not come on, it's not the relay, but still could be the fuse. Are you getting power to the pump(s), sounds like if you bypass the system, they are working. So, I would pull the ECU, and see what it look like inside. This can be a bit of a head ache, I loosen up the wheel cover to allow more movement.

Do you have fuel pressure at the rail? Probably not, is the pumps are not coming on at all. Remember, they will only run for a few seconds when you turn the key to the start position, you do not have to go to the crank position.

As for the no spark:
You say you tested the Coil with no resistance? Does kind of sound like the coil, but go through this Guide, It is long, but it will get you the answers you need.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...n-module-tests

If you have both no spark and no fuel, My money is on the ecu.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2025 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sswari
EDIT: Major update, Does the fuel pump run for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition? Sounds like it does not. Sounds like you checked the fuses, all of them?? How about the relay? You can swap one of the other relays as a test. Say the wiper relay, if the wiper still work and the pumps do not come on, it's not the relay, but still could be the fuse. Are you getting power to the pump(s), sounds like if you bypass the system, they are working. So, I would pull the ECU, and see what it look like inside. This can be a bit of a head ache, I loosen up the wheel cover to allow more movement.

Do you have fuel pressure at the rail? Probably not, is the pumps are not coming on at all. Remember, they will only run for a few seconds when you turn the key to the start position, you do not have to go to the crank position.

As for the no spark:
You say you tested the Coil with no resistance? Does kind of sound like the coil, but go through this Guide, It is long, but it will get you the answers you need.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...n-module-tests

If you have both no spark and no fuel, My money is on the ecu.
First off, thank you so much for the guide. So no, the fuel pumps will not turn on with the ignition turned on. I've swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing. The pumps only turn on when bypassed, there's no pressure on the Schrader valve, and no voltage at the ignition coil. I've went through the guide and went ahead and replaced the ICM with the correct color and still nothing.

I pulled the ECU and nothing really looks abnormal. If I have to go this route, where would I get one from that would be reliable?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2025 | 08:33 PM
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Sure.

So, lets get the fuel flowing before we mess with anything else. When you pulled the ECU, did you open it up? Pictures by chance? often times the Capacitors will leak and cause problems you can't see from the outside.
Depending on your skill set, you can get a set of replacement capacitors and solder them in. If that is not something you are comfortable with, you will need the code off the ECU. There are several numbers, take a photo of the connector and post it so we can get you the right one.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sswari
Sure.

So, lets get the fuel flowing before we mess with anything else. When you pulled the ECU, did you open it up? Pictures by chance? often times the Capacitors will leak and cause problems you can't see from the outside.
Depending on your skill set, you can get a set of replacement capacitors and solder them in. If that is not something you are comfortable with, you will need the code off the ECU. There are several numbers, take a photo of the connector and post it so we can get you the right one.




 
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sswari
Sure.

So, lets get the fuel flowing before we mess with anything else. When you pulled the ECU, did you open it up? Pictures by chance? often times the Capacitors will leak and cause problems you can't see from the outside.
Depending on your skill set, you can get a set of replacement capacitors and solder them in. If that is not something you are comfortable with, you will need the code off the ECU. There are several numbers, take a photo of the connector and post it so we can get you the right one.
I've sent some pics over. I've never messed with an ECU so the comfort level's pretty low.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 04:24 PM
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HA, so, remove the 6 screws holding the cover plate on, so we can see the inside of the ECU. Also, is there a tag on the connector of the ECU, if yes, send a photo of that as well.

That glob of silicone on the #1 wire is a concern. That is the power that supplies voltage to the keep alive memory (used to help with fueling)
Anyway, open that puppy uppy.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sswari
HA, so, remove the 6 screws holding the cover plate on, so we can see the inside of the ECU. Also, is there a tag on the connector of the ECU, if yes, send a photo of that as well.

That glob of silicone on the #1 wire is a concern. That is the power that supplies voltage to the keep alive memory (used to help with fueling)
Anyway, open that puppy uppy.


Here it is
 
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 05:32 PM
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Ok, so it does look like there is an issue with at least one of the capacitors. If you look closely at the little red capicator next to the orange blob, you will see what looks like corrosion. This almost certanly a part of your problems.
What you need to do is get another ECU with the F5TF-12a650-ALA and or DOE0
Now, there may be some that are really close to those that may work, but if you can find an exact match, that would be best. Another option is to send this one off and have it rebuilt.
Should not be that expensive.
Get this sorted, and then on to the next step.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 06:49 PM
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Start looking for another SD-48E computer.
i just picked one up, remanufactured, caps replaced, but doesn’t get second gear in drive.

so, even if your caps are replaced, there could be other problems with the ecu.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 07:23 PM
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Ok, thank you both for the help. I'll look into this and update when I can.
 
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