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From what I am seeing they are measuring "LH" load height (both empty & loaded height) from the bed floor to the ground not the bumper.
I also dont see this being true as the bed could have been removed and replaced now with new bushings or shimmed higher because the cab has new bushings and sits higher.
But it is better than nothing I guess.
I am not seeing "CB" cab height on the picture so I guess from ground to roof top?
Again not good if the cab has new bushings.
Dave ----
from what i see on my hardcopythe f100-f150 cab height are supposed to be between 69-70”
f100-69.3
F150-69.9swb
f150-69.8 lwb
From what I am seeing they are measuring "LH" load height (both empty & loaded height) from the bed floor to the ground not the bumper.
I also dont see this being true as the bed could have been removed and replaced now with new bushings or shimmed higher because the cab has new bushings and sits higher.
But it is better than nothing I guess.
I am not seeing "CB" cab height on the picture so I guess from ground to roof top?
Again not good if the cab has new bushings.
Dave ----
yes but if im measuring 2” lower, thats most likely from leaf spring sag. As im sure most do, as these trucks are all 40 years old now.
Load height and cab height both have a (1) next to them so what does the note say? Found it…
I did see the 1 next to CH but my bad eyes missed the other but yea what is the "note #1"?
Also tires will change some of the measurements maybe a inch either way. But I can also see some "settling" over the years.
Me if the paint marks at the bump stops were not marked on a normal drive I would not worry about it but if you are you have to do new springs at both ends to get back to factory and it will ride stiffer for a while.
My 02 Durango would jump sideways over bumps when it was new, it had the trailer package, but it would not support my car trailer even empty as the hitch would drag going in & out of driveways.
I have to run a WD hitch when pulling the trailer but with 295k+ miles on it, it rides pretty good as the springs are "broken in"
Dave ----
Yep. So is your truck still in “production tolerances?” I don’t know. Do you?
so my truck is measuring out at 26” at the rear, and still appears to have stock rake. Which tells me the front is sagging too. I kinda feel this in the drive, so i want to address it before putting to many miles on these tires.
So if I read the chart right it should be 26 - 27 and change +#1 for options etc and you have 26 and you have the rack like the factory puts on trucks so what is the problem as I dont see one?
Now I will tell you a car or truck will not handle well without sway bars. My 81 F100 dose not have sway bars and the first few times driving it I thought the truck was going to roll over but in 6 years even pulling a trailer it has not.
I also had a streetcar, front bar only, that I undid the links for more weight transfer when I was drag racing it. Got down to the end and went to turn off the track, not going fast at all and thought it was going to roll over.
I think you are so use to cars / trucks with sway bars that when you drive the pickup without them you feel the spring are weak.
If the truck measures with in spec and is not hitting the bump stops spend your money on a set of front & rear sway bars and see how it feels.
If you feel it is still not good put new springs in it and keep the sway bars in place as they can only help with how the truck handles.
My .02
Dave ----
so my truck is measuring out at 26” at the rear, and still appears to have stock rake. Which tells me the front is sagging too. I kinda feel this in the drive, so i want to address it before putting to many miles on these tires.
Put a level on the front wheels. If the springs are sagging the truck will have negative camber, tops of wheels leaning inward.
I have what I consider perfect front height. 0.5° positive camber. Top of front wheel opening is 18" above the center of the wheel.
My truck is on stock size tires and its rear ride height matches the chart posted above precisely. Measuring to the body line at the rear tire, unloaded, the rear is 2.25" higher than at the front tire. My base model truck has the 3/1 1650# leaf springs.
so I'm planing on replacing the front springs with a set of progressives that will give it about 1-2” over stock height on the front.
You need to do some research on lifting a TTB or TIB Ford. Because of how they are designed you can't just throw taller springs in there, in most cases anything more than 1" lift at the wheel requires a full kit with drop brackets because there is only a coupple degrees of camber adjustmet available at the upper ball joints.
So if I read the chart right it should be 26 - 27 and change +#1 for options etc and you have 26 and you have the rack like the factory puts on trucks so what is the problem as I dont see one?
Now I will tell you a car or truck will not handle well without sway bars. My 81 F100 dose not have sway bars and the first few times driving it I thought the truck was going to roll over but in 6 years even pulling a trailer it has not.
I also had a streetcar, front bar only, that I undid the links for more weight transfer when I was drag racing it. Got down to the end and went to turn off the track, not going fast at all and thought it was going to roll over.
I think you are so use to cars / trucks with sway bars that when you drive the pickup without them you feel the spring are weak.
If the truck measures with in spec and is not hitting the bump stops spend your money on a set of front & rear sway bars and see how it feels.
If you feel it is still not good put new springs in it and keep the sway bars in place as they can only help with how the truck handles.
My .02
Dave ----
Well my truck largely has the stock set up in it. It is a f150 lwb nominal base line truck. AC is its only option upgrade, and my own changes should have reduced weight rather than increased it. That chart for mine calls for 27.9 (almost 28) on the rear and I measure in at 26 (empty) The truck looks good even though all four corners measure different from wheel centerline. My primary concern is getting the stock handling back. I don't mind gaining a little lift if need be. I was just curious about what others have done to address it.
Well my truck largely has the stock set up in it. It is a f150 lwb nominal base line truck. AC is its only option upgrade, and my own changes should have reduced weight rather than increased it. That chart for mine calls for 27.9 (almost 28) on the rear and I measure in at 26 (empty) The truck looks good even though all four corners measure different from wheel centerline. My primary concern is getting the stock handling back. I don't mind gaining a little lift if need be. I was just curious about what others have done to address it.
When I started my truck's rebuild it had ride height issues like you describe, all four corners different.
What screwed up the rear was one of the spring shackles was frozen with corrosion and not allowing the spring to lengthen (flatten) under load. On the front my problem was self inflicted. The front coils sit on cast perches. These perches are different thickness to compensate for the extra weight on the passenger side. Did you know that the engine is set 3/4" to the right of center? I had replaced ball joints and pivot bushings years earlier and got the two perches reinstalled on the wrong sides. Also, you might be surprised to see how much the front driver side sags when you sit in the truck.
As for getting a good ride, I ditched the new stock style Gabriel Ultra shocks for Bilsteins. They're spendy but so much better.
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