Front passenger brake gets very hot on short trips. Does not seem to retract at all won’t spin freely after breaking when tire is off the ground.
brake light comes on even though there’s no leaks. I’ve bled the crap out of them twice now and replaced the master cylinder 2 years ago, and just now the proportion valve, the brake vacuum boost, The rotor/hub both calipers in front but haven’t touched the rear drums except to bleed them. But can hear them moving after they been bled.
oh passenger hose was replaced again just now even though I did that also 2 years ago.

is it possible my master cylinder failed even though brand new.

when I changed the rotor hub the bearings and seal looked excellent yet.


also pin on proportioning valve slides forward when brakes are applied, indicating to much pressure in rear brakes??

 

How are you measuring that wheel is running hotter than the other side?
When you changed the bearings & seal why were they changed, did you also change the races.
Same goes for the brake hose & caliper needed to be changed again with in 2 years?
You did repack the new bearings with wheel bearing grease and how was this done, grease in the cup of your hand or do you have a wheel bearing greasing tool(s)?

When the calipers were replaced did you make sure the mounts & slides were clean and worked good?
Dave ----

 

Push the brake pedal and then release it with the pass side front off the ground. Go out and make sure it's dragging/hard to turn. Then loosen the two nuts that hold the master cylinder on and pull the master cylinder forward about 1/2 inch or so. Then go out and see if it quit dragging.

 

after 10 miles it’s smoking after 3 miles to hot to touch for more than 2 seconds.

didnt change bearings or seal cuz they looked excellent yet. Just poped them into the new rotor-hub hose and master cylinder were changed 2 years ago both were toast. Put bearing in then poped seal in put on shaft pumped it full of grease put outer bearing in then washer then nut them nut lock cap.

it slides on a polished solid slide that locks in with a single bolt.

slides work perfectly as far as I can tell.

 

it does drag hard after pushing brake.
theres not 2 nuts that hold it on. It’s held on by a spacer that traps the caliper in place. It moved freely but tge piston does not allow rotor movement. Did the same thing with the old piston.

 

It sounds like you DID NOT pack the wheel bearing with grease just the hub area between the wheel bearings.
That is why I asked if you did the grease in the cup of your hand and forced the grease into the bearings or if you had a wheel bearing packer, I have 2 different types.

I would pull the wheel & rotor back off. When you pull the rotor remove the outer washer and bearing and thread the nut back on and then pull the rotor off. The nut will pull the bearing and seal out of the rotor so you dont have to mess with doing that. Check the bearing over really good and if they have any color to them get new ones with races.

To replace the races there should be notches you can fit a punch into to drive them out.
When you install the new races MAKE SURE you install them the right way or you will not be able to get them out.
Pack the new bearing with grease there must be youtube video on how to do this but you need to force the grease in 1 side and see it come out the other before you put them in the rotor / hub.
I hope it have not done damage to the spindle or you are in a world of hurt.

Also when doing anything with brakes and replacing parts you do the same to both sides. If 1 hose or caliper is bad the other side has the same wear & tare on it and is not far behind going bad.
It also makes for less problems when braking and it pulling to 1 side or heating up.
Dave ----

 

Dave, I don't think this is a wheel bearing issue. He described the problem as the wheel not able to spin freely after applying the brakes. Even if the bearings are getting hot and heating the caliper and expanding the fluid inside, pressure should bleed back towards the master cylinder.

Can you duplicate the fault in your driveway? If so, momentarily crack the bleeder open. If the wheel can now spin, hydraulic pressure was keeping that brake applied.

One potential cause is a flex line swelled shut internally, acting like a check valve. Full pressure from the master cylinder can force the swollen area open, applying that brake as normal. But when the pedal is released, pressure in the line returns to ambient, which is no longer sufficient to force open the swollen area.

You may also has two active faults. It is not normal for the warning light to illuminate during brake application. I'd first take care of what's causing the one brake to stick on. Then I'd pressure bleed the whole system as described here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bleeding.html

Please note typical DIY bleeding procedures don't work after replacing the master cylinder. Plan to do a pressure bleed as detailed above.

 

im using the old bearings that came from the old hub. In 10 years I’ve put 8,000 miles on the truck.
I did pack tge hub to the point where grease was compressed significantly when reapplying tge nut. I was told this was adequate growing up. Perhaps in wrong. Haven’t had a problem before.

the races came with and in the rotor and I did not replace the brand new races….

the caliper continues to bind though the brake light no longer lights after sitting over night. Im guessing the valve seals softened up sitting in fluid over night and are now working properly. Idk. 🤷‍♂️

 

I bled in between the master and proportion valve by cracking the lines between those units. Probably not recommend and also very messy. But Im old school.

the light has as of today (Sunday) stoped coming on.

if I tap on the caliper with a hammer the rotor spins freely the sliders work exceptionally well so im quite certain it’s an issue with the caliper not retracting even slightly.

I’ve had this truck since high school 2006 so I’m pretty much just trying to keep it rolling for old time sake …..

 

You mis-understood. Get it dragging and then loosen the nuts on the master cylinder. Loosen them up and pull the master cylinder forward. See if it releases the caliper.

 

Dave, Dave, Dave. Do I have to break out the tranquilizer dart gun again? It’s for your own good, so don’t pull out the dart.

A master cylinder problem won’t affect just a single wheel. It could affect both fronts or both rears or even all four, but not one by itself.

 

FWIW, have you thought about replacing that front caliper again ?

My story, It took 5 right front calipers over a couple of years to get a good one. Finally, before I replaced the last one, I stopped by a different auto parts store and told them the problem of the right front getting hot. He would not sell me one, he told me, go back to NAPA, we've heard that Cardon found an issue with their "jig". NAPA should honor the warranty again. Which they did, well past the warranty period. This was on a Subaru.

 

It's quick and easy and a very common problem. Stranger things have happened.

 

I was missed that it was a caliper that is sticking and YES should be replaced ASAP and as I side in my other post I would do both sides.

I bet this is a rebuilt caliper, who rebuilt it?
A club member was helping another club member replace calipers and bleed brakes on a Corvet and they leaked out of the box, took it back and that one also leaked.
I dont know where they stand on this as we got hit with 95*+ heat here and was bad to be working outside.
So that caliper is bad take it back.
Dave ----

 

I tried letting out the bleed screw and I’d did not loosen up.