When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was missed that it was a caliper that is sticking and YES should be replaced ASAP and as I side in my other post I would do both sides.
I bet this is a rebuilt caliper, who rebuilt it?
A club member was helping another club member replace calipers and bleed brakes on a Corvet and they leaked out of the box, took it back and that one also leaked.
I dont know where they stand on this as we got hit with 95*+ heat here and was bad to be working outside.
So that caliper is bad take it back.
Dave ----
I think that’s probably my next step. It’s under warranty and I might as well.
i got the thing from auto value parts.
and it seems lots of parts nowadays are bad off the bat.
But, I'm old and tend to trust major name brand auto parts like NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone.
i don’t trust any of them. I’ve gotten tons of brand new parts that were trash. A new mechanical fuel pump and ignition module were both trash last year. Those were from car quest….
But, I'm old and tend to trust major name brand auto parts like NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone.
I also have not heard of them and was thinking it was north of the border but the OP is in MI.
You forgot O'Reilly that if I had to can walk to from my house and get a club discount from.
Originally Posted by Cb85
i don’t trust any of them. I’ve gotten tons of brand new parts that were trash. A new mechanical fuel pump and ignition module were both trash last year. Those were from car quest….
tomorrow I’ll run to town and try again..
I also got a mechanical fuel pump from AZ a year or so ago and it put out 18+ psi to a carburetor out of the box.
I took it back and got a different brand and that wone was fine. Thing is I would have trusted the first one by name than the replacement go figure
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Dave ----
This problem is textbook bad hoses. They fail on the inside and restrict the fluid from moving back to the master from the caliper. Replace all rubber hoses in the system and I bet that helps your issue. Reading back it seems you did replace... in that case I would be looking for a blockedge in the hard line. Is a part of it rotted or kinked?
This problem is textbook bad hoses. They fail on the inside and restrict the fluid from moving back to the master from the caliper. Replace all rubber hoses in the system and I bet that helps your issue. Reading back it seems you did replace... in that case I would be looking for a blockedge in the hard line. Is a part of it rotted or kinked?
I thought it was posted he opened the bleeder and it was still hard to turn?
I am all for changing out all old rubber brake hoses but I also thought he did that hose 2 years ago also?
Dave ----
I thought it was posted he opened the bleeder and it was still hard to turn?
I am all for changing out all old rubber brake hoses but I also thought he did that hose 2 years ago also?
Dave ----
I did the hose and steel line 2 years ago but did the hose again this year cuz I usually start with the cheap stuff.
also brake light continues to come on turns out it stoped due to corrosion in the bulb connection. 🤦♂️
Last edited by Cb85; Jul 28, 2025 at 09:41 AM.
Reason: Added information
Yep, opening the bleeder would release the caliper if the hose was blocked. Opening the bleeder and it still being locked takes the whole hydraulic system out of the picture. There is something wrong mechanically with the caliper, either internally with the piston or externally with the slides.
also brake light continues to come on turns out it stoped due to corrosion in the bulb connection.
Making progress. You’ve identified one fault, with the caliper mechanically getting stuck.
The warning light? That’s the system trying to tell you about problem #2. Ford could have designed an animatronic arm to extend from the dashboard and slap you around to get your attention. Instead they cheaped out and went with a simple warning light instead.
The most likely root cause is air in the lines somewhere. Please see my previous post with a link showing very important details about how to bleed the system. It’s also important to make sure the rear brakes are properly adjusted. It’s all covered at that link.
Don’t drive the truck until both faults are corrected. The warning system is there for a reason.
I was missed that it was a caliper that is sticking and YES should be replaced ASAP and as I side in my other post I would do both sides.
I bet this is a rebuilt caliper, who rebuilt it?
A club member was helping another club member replace calipers and bleed brakes on a Corvet and they leaked out of the box, took it back and that one also leaked.
I dont know where they stand on this as we got hit with 95*+ heat here and was bad to be working outside.
So that caliper is bad take it back.
Dave ----
Still its possible the caliper is what is holding the bearing in place. I would think the caliper would be the first place to indicate imminent bearing failure. Smoking after ten miles indicates a very serious problem!
Still its possible the caliper is what is holding the bearing in place. I would think the caliper would be the first place to indicate imminent bearing failure. Smoking after ten miles indicates a very serious problem!
replaced on that passenger caliper again. Still jams up, if only pushing the brake lightly it’ll retract fine but push hard and it’ll retract less and less with each braking.
so I had a kid push the piston out almost completely on the caliper then used penetrating oil and regular 30 weight inside the rubber seal of the caliper piston.
pushed it out and in a few times to work it lose.
now it’s working just right.
retracts perfectly every time now. This was probably a bad idea and I’ll probably find out that I shouldn’t have f’ed around but I’ve got **** to do. I can’t afford to keep screwing around with this.
If that seems to work, you should do the brake fluid flush as in the "How Too's" Remember, these are your brakes, they could save your life when you need them.
If that seems to work, you should do the brake fluid flush as in the "How Too's" Remember, these are your brakes, they could save your life when you need them.
I believe you said, you replaced the flex hoses ?
yes flex hoses are new.
this truck gets little use but now that long standing issues are being sorted out it might get used much more frequently.
hopefuly this fixes one of many long standing issues.
next is muffler needs to go on then the crying or weeping radiator gets replaced.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.