Which filter do you have?

 

There's two schools of thought here on water issues in fuel. Mechanical removal, for lack of better term, by using diesel fuel water separators with a hydrophobic layer which does not pass water.

https://www.garagegurus.tech/en-eu/k...explained.html

--- OR ---

By using an additive that, I use K100D, puts any water if present in the fuel into a permanent solution with it by breaking the water down at the molecular level and encapsulating it in a burnable organic compound. K100 also adds lubricity, is a fuel cleaner and has other functions as well. It is an all-in-one additive. I just double the dose in winter time -- probably for anti-gel reasons I'd assume.

Here's a great article with a lot of info but IMO, I disagree with the use of the term "emulsification" because when you look at the definition of that, its only temporary like a salad dressing.

https://www.ezoil.com/resources-dies...emulsification

From K100s website:




My truck now has 141k miles and I use K100D religiously every tank. I only ever get under the truck, to empty the primary pump housing, when I am changing the fuel filter set on my 3rd oil change.

I never find water so one of two things; either it works or I'm just lucky. I've never been that lucky and I think it just works. I tend to overdose some so there's that as well...

I also use a combo of Pittsburgh Power's additives, along with K100D, Flashpoint and their rebranded Better Diesel FBC Max Mileage in the same bottle that doses at 2.5 oz per 25 gallons.

Original CP4 and injectors, except one on the passenger side that the Ford tech must have hit and cracked it somehow as it was leaking after the EGR cooler core replacement. All fuel system components are Original and I installed the S&S Gen 2 DPK in July 23 at about 108k miles...

Everyone here is usually in the mechanical water separation side but thats okay... I'm good being outside the box and this works for me.

That said, I do have an Air Dog pump yet to install, have had it, but want to install a Titan 50 gallon tank (yet to purchase) BUT want to retain the factory primary pump (DFCM) and feed it with the AirDog, so still have some driveway engineering yet to do with that but no time soon...

I'm not saying I'm against good and extra fuel filtration and water separation, I just do not worry about it as I'm getting good fuel from where I buy and use K100D...

Good luck moving forward...

 

I dont know if its Archoil, or summer temps, but got 18.4 yesterday on my last fill. Dash tripoliar said 18.2. Whatever, but I have no issues using peaceofmind juice at every fill. Now just trying to determine if the pricier Archoil is actually worth it. Yes it does good, but does it do it better than the same amount of EDT will, still to come as I still have half a bottle of Archoil, or 3 tanks worth left.

I do know now one thing for sure, the DPF is sooting less, its hitting 27% in 500 miles instead of 34%.

 

A 2017 with 157k on the clock, so you are paying for this out of pocket. If I were in your shoes, I WOULD NOT install another CP4 pump. NOW is the time to go DCR and never worry over it again.

 

Last Winter filed a claim for contaminated fuel in my 2016 F250. My insurance agent didn't think it would be covered but he put the claim in. The adjuster asked me if I put DEF or gas in the fuel tank and I told him no but my diesel mechanic feels it's likely caused by contaminated fuel. They sent out an adjuster who took pics of the metal on the filter screen and water separation of the fuel. He took the estimate of $12K. A week later they mailed me a check for the full repair. I had the pump upgraded to the DCR and had a 56 gallon S&B tank and S&B cab mounts installed as well as the full coolant system doctored up.

Determined to not let this happen to my 2013 and 2015 custom built 6.7's had both of those CP4's swapped out for DCR's.

 

Good for you... what insurance company you have out of curiosity?

How many miles on the 16 when the CP4 popped?

 

Thank you.
Auto-Owners, just over 200K miles.

 

I mean, I guess if you can get insurance to cover that's better than shelling out $12k from your checkbook all at once. But the thing that sucks is insurance companies DO NOT eat it. Your premiums will increase significantly at renewal time, and it is highly likely that the cost is also absorbed to some degree by other members in that area.

 

I have had a few insurance claims over the years and my rates didn't go up very much. On my own home I had a $86K insurance claim and the following year my rates actually decreased.
If contaminated fuel is a covered loss why would you not submit a claim? Do you think the rates will increase $12,000 over the following 3-5 years? I think not.

 

If my CP4 blows, I'll pay out of pocket for the DCR as that's all I'll need as the S&S Gen 2 DPK is protecting the rest of the system. But I get it for someone who has to have the whole fuel system replaced, and use their insurance to cover it.

 

More often than not when the CP4 fails it takes out the fuel system. In some cases it will also take out the engine. To avoid this I proactively upgraded to the DCR in 2 of my trucks.

GM had a recall because of the lousy Bosch CP4 and Ford will be next. Weakest link in the 6.7 trucks.

 

If there is no disaster prevention kit installed, it will take out the entire fuel system because the fuel flow through the CP4 which takes the "glitter" and sends it everywhere.

The fuel bypass block in the kits changes the fuel flow to only allow fresh fuel from the secondary filter to feed the pump and the return fuel, or in case of a CP4 failure, the contaminated fuel is back to the return line which with the kit, has a filter on it to catch the metal wear particles created from the failure.

I have zero worry about the potential failure of my CP4 taking out the engine, which does happen, because I use an additive that adds extra lubricity and controls water.

IMO I believe the cases where the CP4 took out the engine were from extreme cases where DEF or gasoline were added to really cut the lubricity of the fuel in the tank to nothing, and created a situation where the gear on the camshaft, if I'm describing this correctly but could be wrong, rotated on the camshaft causing craziness in the engine to happen taking it out. Someone more knowledgeable please correct me if I am wrong here thanks.

It is also my opinion that if you were to not use an additive religiously and want to completely eliminate any worry about the CP4 without a kit, or in your case if you're worried about it even with having a DPK, then yes do the DCR. But additives are more than just for adding lubricity to fuel, there's also anti-gel which may not apply to you, adding cetane and adding fuel cleaning capabilities to keep the injectors clean and also putting alphaltenes, that are created by fuel combustion under high pressure and heat, back into solution.

I know not all agree with me but thats what I do...

Rock on.

 

I’ve been on here since I bought my 2016 and never have I seen a CP4 taking out an engine, didn’t miss something?

 

I think the OP is referring to the warranty on the parts/labor of installing the new CP4, not the original manufacture warranty. If that's they case, they may void it if DPK is installed. However, like any other warranty claim, seems to be dealer dependent.

In terms of the newer CP4 pumps, they have pinned the roller which is actually a huge upgrade. Yes, they can still fail as there is a lot of cam lobe lift inherent to the CP4, but the fact that the lifter is pinned is actually a big deal imo. So it doesn't spin around, which causes definite failure of the pump. Glad Bosch figured this one out.

Regarding additive, pick Hot Shots every diesel (performance dose), or Archoil. Idk much about K100, but Overkill swears by it and I trust him. Additive is NOT snake oil. I'm just going to say it like it is. No need to beat around the bush on this matter as it's not really an opinion at this point. You're basically improving US spec diesel to European specs that the CP4 was designed for. If your pump fails after using good additive in every tank, then that's either wear-and-tear, or just a faulty pump to begin with. At least you did your part.

 

Since the OP brought it up, I thought I remember seeing this, not common and possibly not here. I could be wrong Dave, but it did sound familiar but I could be wrong.