First start up issues
I still need to set the initial timing.
I am having a tough time getting the idle adjusted. I think I need to adjust the choke cable as what I think is the idle adjustment screw under the choke "cam/lever" bottoms out before I can get any adjustment and I have to pull the choke out to get it to idle.
My heater valve is leaking. I rebuilt it, and it works, but where it seals at the 2 sides it is leaking. In order to be able to drive it without losing fluid I out in a plumbing ball valve until I can sort it out at a later date.
My brakes are not working properly. I have a weak pedal and they sort of come on all at once. I have to verify the front brakes are even working. I can feel the rears grab but not convincingly.
My rear is leaking at the shaft I think. See picture.
I am getting an oil drip out of the rear flywheel cover. I assume it is the rear main seal? Although it could be at the very back of the oil pan gasket. I have to take the cover off. I did take the oil pan off at one point before I put the motor in. Will check the bolts.
I have what I think is valve train noise. It's very clackety. maybe they just need adjustment? I am getting oil up top, but not much. I am not sure if that is the normal amount. I will post in that separately tonight.
My voltage regulator is holding steady at 6.3 volts and not dropping, but it is not at the 7.2 required voltage. I know there is a whole thread on that and I read the service manual but I am still not exactly sure how to adjust it. It requires bending of the contact arm I think.
Working out these start up kinks is tough. A lot to learn. I don't think it will be ready for the August 7 town car show. Still hoping I can get it sorted out by Aug 30 for the Lime Rock show.
Kluge shut off valve solution.
Oil leak at rear. Bad seal? Easy fix?
The dipstick sleeve (that you are missing or is set to deep) sticks up 3/4” above block.
Just in case the block casting was changed, I measured from bottom of block to top of casting and top of dipstick sleeve. 3-3/4” and 4-1/2” respectively.
I also learned that the sump on the '55 is in the rear, vs. on the '60 where it is in the front. I have a'55 pan on the '60 block so I need to see if the '60 pan will work with the '55 truck.
In the mean time I know I have enough oil in there and when I change my oil after the first 100 miles or so I will verify the pan and then get the correct dipstick.
I have another 223 sitting in the garage. I believe it is newer (late 50s early 60’s) it has dipstick on passenger side front half and is located in the pan. Not sure if it is out of a car or truck.









