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I have had an 8BA block down in the basement for a while and finally had it checked out and machined. Going to build this one with the boys and put it in the 50 F1 farm truck. It’s bored 40 over, merc crank ground 10/10, and EAB cam.
First step was a good primer coat and enamel to keep flash rust at bay. I am building it downstairs in a cool low humidity shop but hate flash rust!
Sounds like a great project for you and your sons. Have fun. What's in the farm truck now? The paint job looks good. Were 50 flatheads red?
Are you painting in the basement? I painted my heater box and and defroster thingy (what's it called? It goes from the heater to the left for the defrosters) in the basement while my wife was out Christmas shopping years ago. She came home late at night and she smelled the paint.
Funny story on the paint Abe, right before I painted I hit HF and bought their HVLP touch up gun. I was going to use it but it only had a 0.8mm tip. So I quickly had to break out my good gun with 1.5mm tip to spray the bill hirsch without spitting before my epoxy primer mix setup. My good gun really kicked up the fumes, especially on the epoxy primer.
so long story short, yes I got into serious trouble with my better half yesterday. Took all afternoon to air out the basement. Hated to break out the big stuff but it always lays down a good job for me. I may try to drill out that HF gun to 1.5mm to spray the accessories, if those don’t work out, easy to start over, not so much on a block.
Great project! Is it to replace the 6-banger in your first build?
I don't have a picture of the idler gear in place, but I have this pic. From this pic I'd say the teeth on the idler go on the inboard side.. As I recall, they are offset to one side? Might ask on the Barn.
Funny story on the paint Abe, right before I painted I hit HF and bought their HVLP touch up gun. I was going to use it but it only had a 0.8mm tip. I may try to drill out that HF gun to 1.5mm to spray the accessories, if those don’t work out, easy to start over, not so much on a block.
JB
Does HF offer different tips and parts for their guns? The tips consist of a needle, tip and cap set so even of you were to hog out the hole, the needle inside would no longer seal and cause paint to flow through unobstructed and run/fall all over the place.
Does HF offer different tips and parts for their guns? The tips consist of a needle, tip and cap set so even of you were to hog out the hole, the needle inside would no longer seal and cause paint to flow through unobstructed and run/fall all over the place.
no other tips!!! I guess to be able to spray Bill Hirsch, you would have to dilute it with a lot of thinner, which might impede the good quality of it.
There's no shortage of guns available on Amazon that include tips from 1.3 up to 2.0.
I bought one and did my 215 with the Bill Hirsch FM Light green and I did the chassis in the Bill Hirsch Chassis black.
Worked great...think I spent about $50 total but that included a stack of disposable paint cups with filter tops, a cleaning kit, and some other goodies.
The bill hirsch paint comes in a spray can and is more than adequate for an engine paint job , in fact it’s just as you said thinned out version of the quart sized enamel.
But if you ask me spraying an engine is totally unnecessary. I got better results and more satisfaction from a brush with their quart of enamel. It lays out beautifully and theres no real advantage to spraying it unless you’re painting 25 engines a day!
The bill hirsch paint comes in a spray can and is more than adequate for an engine paint job , in fact it’s just as you said thinned out version of the quart sized enamel.
But if you ask me spraying an engine is totally unnecessary. I got better results and more satisfaction from a brush with their quart of enamel. It lays out beautifully and theres no real advantage to spraying it unless you’re painting 25 engines a day!
I used a foam brush and CaseIH enamel right out of the can painting cast pieces on my old A. Looked great.
Ross I checked the parts drawing and it showed the idler gear direction the way you do. I installed the gear and it seems to mesh well with the oil pump. I am going to leave the cover off and make sure the cam gear meshes well before I seal it off!
Got the valve assemblies in. Little fiasco on lifters, on the new set of hollow adjustables, 7 out of 16 wouldn’t hold 60 in/lbs, and 4 of those 7 wouldn’t hold 10 in/lb. But I lucked up and found a set of NOS Johnson’s. They all hold at least 60 so ready for valve lash adjustment tomorrow.
Any tips for me on valve lash setting to keep the turns of the engine down?
I don't like the shortcut methods, even tho the manual says it is OK. Too subjective as to what "open" means. Spinning the engine over is easy on a stand and probably does some good as far as starting the break-in on the rings etc. It looks like your engine has the late-model rotators? Just be sure to use the correct specs for clearances.
Valves are set, I was able to set them with one turn with the cheater disk. Had to use the Johnson wrenches on a couple, especially #4 exhaust. They actually work pretty good, I think I like using them better than the drilled lifter bore and an Allen wrench.
On to fitting the piston rings. I have Grant rings and can tell I am going to have to use my ring grinder to get the right fitment. I only get about 0.008 gap out of the box, and Grant recommends .0035 per inch so I need 0.011.
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