When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Went back today and checked my valve work. Had to tweak just a couple that were a little tight. Made sure the intake fit ok over the breather tube and all that checked out.
Started on the Grant rings. Clamped my ring filer down to the workbench and set #1 bottom oil ring. Moved to 2nd oil ring and it had a spring with directions on orientation under the ring. Seemed really tight to compress and way too much drag in the bore. I have Hastings rings on the way and will start on those tomorrow evening. I used Hastings on the last build and those were what I am used to.
Fitted the Hastings rings over the weekend, much more consistent with less filing. Still had to tweak a few to get desired gap but happy with the outcome. A little over 30lbs to turn it over. It took about an hour per cylinder to gap the rings, set them, and plastigauge the rods. My clearances are all tight at 0.0015-0.002.
Once the pistons were in I was dying to check head clearance on the EAB heads. Sure enough they hit. Even with a gasket they hit. The shop was hesitant to redome them due to the amount needed. I guess between decking the block and skimming the heads we created an issue.
I bolted up two gaskets on each cylinder with foil ***** to see what I had. Smallest quench gap was 0.068, desired is 0.050, so I need 0.018 off my starting point of 0.110 (two gaskets compressed) or 0.092. Cometic just happens to make a 0.092 gasket with a bore size of 3.250 which should work fine with my bore size of 3.2275. Keep making progress on it it’s just slow!
Worked over the weekend getting the oil pan restored and ready to set. It was in pretty good shape but I had a few small dents to hammer/dolly and get the bolt holes straight/flat. It’s painted and ready to mount.
First step was the front timing cover rope seal. I bedded it with a large socket pretty close to the crank snout size, then cut it. I used a husky serrated blade and got a near perfect cut. Really happy with that outcome. In the past I have used a standard blade but the serrated was the trick. I did use a new blade on each side.
Timing cover is set, ready for the pan during the week.
Best gasket front ropes. The back seal cuts easy but the front can be tough and once it starts fraying on you, it’s a mess. That knife made a crisp non-frayed cut!
Got the engine off the stand finally. Got the flywheel and Centerforce pressure plate installed today after service. Worked up a crude holder for the flywheel using a pressure plate bolt, 7/16 bolt, and a wrench.
Got the pumps on and bellhousing/starter plate bolted up. Rebuilt an original fuel pump and got the pump stand and fuel line all buttoned up. The only thing interesting about the pump is that it has an H on it, no other markings on the housing.
I started rebuilding the generator and starter. Waiting on a bearing and a couple of insulators before I can finish those. I used an exhaust pipe expander and I special 5/16 square socket with my breaker bar on the press to install new field coils. Will post a few picks of this setup when I do it on the starter.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
