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400 EGR issues? causing misfire?

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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 12:48 PM
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Lightbulb 400 EGR issues? causing misfire?

Hi all would a hole in my EGR spacer cause a misfire as I am trying to figure it out 2 people have confirmed it misses? I would like to know before I start throw money at it Thank you!


Sound of it running before I fixed cylinder 5-6-7-8 that was a spark issue but seems fine now on those cylinders.

Before taking it apart it looked to firing 5-6-7-8 as I get about 300 degrees Fahrenheit on all 4 exhaust ports.

The EGR is stuck closed and was fully clogged with carbon buildup. Below is the spacer for the EGR, I am looking at replacing with 9A598-C/AC if this will fix it.

Any advice is greatly appreciated Thank you!

( This is my first project and still learning about how engines function in regards to these systems ).


 
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 02:33 PM
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EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation, it sends exhaust back into combustion chamber to give the air/fuel charge a second chance of combusting any unburned fuel. It was added, mainly, to reduce tail pipe emissions in the mid 70s.

Since yours was plugged, it wasn't doing the job as designed, which frankly I would be good with that. I would rather not have dirty exhaust recirculated back into the engine to possibly burn off any fuel that didn't combust the first time through.

Since yours is rotted out, it was likely causing a vacuum leak. That vacuum leak adds more air to the fuel/air charge, which "leans" it out. This causes the engine to run hotter and without the proper fuel/air mixture you have a tendency to experience misfire. That of course reduces power, efficiency and how smooth the engine runs.

Do you have to pass an emissions test? If you do not, I would remove it and cap whatever exhaust port is feeding it. Your engine will thank you.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mterickson
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation, it sends exhaust back into combustion chamber to give the air/fuel charge a second chance of combusting any unburned fuel. It was added, mainly, to reduce tail pipe emissions in the mid 70s.

Since yours was plugged, it wasn't doing the job as designed, which frankly I would be good with that. I would rather not have dirty exhaust recirculated back into the engine to possibly burn off any fuel that didn't combust the first time through.

Since yours is rotted out, it was likely causing a vacuum leak. That vacuum leak adds more air to the fuel/air charge, which "leans" it out. This causes the engine to run hotter and without the proper fuel/air mixture you have a tendency to experience misfire. That of course reduces power, efficiency and how smooth the engine runs.

Do you have to pass an emissions test? If you do not, I would remove it and cap whatever exhaust port is feeding it. Your engine will thank you.
Cool thank you Mterickson for the advice, Its got a nice gap and the gasket wont cover it either. Yes it also has to pass a PA visual inspection as well. Again thank you and I will update this thread if it fixes it.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomad7678
Cool thank you Mterickson for the advice, Its got a nice gap and the gasket wont cover it either. Yes it also has to pass a PA visual inspection as well. Again thank you and I will update this thread if it fixes it.
Visual inspection? No tail pipe sniffer? JB weld is your friend...

Fill the holes in the EGR plate, make sure they are smooth and flat so gaskets work properly. I would connect a vacuum line to the EGR valve but would put something like a piece of nail in the vacuum line so if the diaphragm is shot in the EGR valve it doesn't cause a vacuum leak. Visually everything would look intact, sniffer test would fail. This is all hypothetically speaking as I would never knowingly break federal law removing or modifying required emissions components...
 
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Old Jul 13, 2025 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mterickson
Visual inspection? No tail pipe sniffer? JB weld is your friend...

Fill the holes in the EGR plate, make sure they are smooth and flat so gaskets work properly. I would connect a vacuum line to the EGR valve but would put something like a piece of nail in the vacuum line so if the diaphragm is shot in the EGR valve it doesn't cause a vacuum leak. Visually everything would look intact, sniffer test would fail. This is all hypothetically speaking as I would never knowingly break federal law removing or modifying required emissions components...
Yep just visual no sniffer and I ordered a new valve and spacer. Someone just listed one in great condition for $30 incl tax + shipping so I hopped on and bought it. Might look at that last part later if the state I'm in permits it.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 08:29 AM
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The new / good EGR plate should fix it or at least help
Common, glad you found one
 
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Old Jul 14, 2025 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
The new / good EGR plate should fix it or at least help
Common, glad you found one
Thank you. Really hoping this fixes it if not will have to look at timing and other vac leaks, if there are any.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 02:29 PM
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Finally found the issue. It was the carburetor throttle blades causing a vacuum leak. Replaced the Carburetor and it's now smooth as ever and runs like a dream. Thank you all for your help!
 
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