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If you're sure that you have spark, before you get carried away you might try starting fluid (ether). Carb cleaner might not be volatile/flammable enough.
If it fires on starting fluid but won't stay running, consider bad gas as a possibility. Or just weak spark. Which could be caused by the PCM or power supply to the coils. You might also check injector control with noid lights, since you have spark.
Simple things to try. Not sure how a wiring diagram will help.
Color of the spark matters little
Trust me
You lean over the hood and hold the coil in your hand; it will burn your *******
A wiring diagram can be had on AllData
Some of us have EVTM's and post diagrams
I have no 03 like you need
AllData is free at your library or you can pay the heavy price for a subscription
AllData is not available at all libraries. Individual libraries have to decide whether or not to have it, I assume. It's not available at my local library, in a relatively small metro area.
good afternoon i really appreciate all of the input that has helped me so when i got home with a pin stethoscope and either used it on the injector and they are clicking so went to the either sprayed some in the throttle body turned the key and on the second revolution booooooooooooooooom out the throttle body so that is telling me that the timing chain has jumped or a leaking valve so tomorrow i am going to take the valve cover off and see what i can see and give an update might just go ahead and find a crake motor or re ring it and do the heads let me see how far it is and again thanks to everybody i will keep everyone up to date
That's a bummer. Valve timing seemed like a possibility, with 200,000 miles, but you had pretty even compression across all eight, apparently. Seems like you would have got some zeroes from a bent valve. Maybe a timing job will fix it.
well stupid me only checked the right side went to the left side cyld 5 6 a big zero cyld 7 120 lbs and cyld 8 30 so i order a timing kit with water and oil pump
so what's that old saying assumption is the root of all screw up lol
ok now that i know that it is out of time do i still have to drop the oil pan and sense it had a knock sensor code should i go ahead and change it while i am at this point and again thank for all your help
I thought someone else might chime in, but the zero compression on one cylinder implies a bent valve, not just timing chain issues. You probably need more than just timing chains and guides.
The description of how it died was a clue. Have you had the valve cover off and looked? A bore scope might confirm also. Really, it sounds like rebuilt heads along with the timing gear job, at the minimum. Not an expert...
The knock sensor code could be from the sensor detecting the piston banging off of the valve. Erroneous values from the PCM's perspective.