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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:00 PM
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No Start, AE help

I've got a late 99 which stumbled, shut down and will not restart. Turns over fine but will not hit. No smoke, recent oil change, good oil pressure and CPS made no change. I've changed batteries and checked altenator. Appears to be getting fuel to the bowl as normal. Trying to get fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow. ICP sensor has oil in it. Any other suggestions?

Also, what specifically do I need to look for with AE? Had P0603 code stored. Buzz test was also week on 4&5.

All help is appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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Just a start but I would guess that you are not getting the proper fuel pressure. AE has an IPR monitor you could see what pressure you get when cranking anyway. Some more knowledgable AE person will chime in shortly
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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No smoke? Does your "wait to start light" come on? Might have blown the fuel heater fuse...
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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Did you try to start it with the ICP disconnected?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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Oil in the ICP tells me the sensor is bad. If there is oil on the connectors it could be affecting the 5 volt VREF signal. That can affect the other sensors too.

If you hook up AE and turn the key to run (no cranking) what PSI does Injector Control Pressure read?

After that monitor ICP, IPR DC, RPM's, and then crank. During the crank take a recording of those parameters.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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WTS light does come on. Unplugged ICP with no change. AE shows IPR climb to 64% DC and around 400 PSI at 100 rpm.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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400 psi is not enough to trigger the PCM to send the "fire" signal to the IDM. With the IPR commanded to 64% you will be hard pressed to get more pressure. Your RPM's seem to be a little low (usually I see around 140-150).

I think I would be looking at the IPR for now.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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I also need to get the batteries up to full charge as this may be causing some low numbers. Truck was running sluggish and he punched it to open it up. Truck immediatley died and hasn't ran since. He said the EBPV was closing for a longer time than normal prior to this incident. Not sure if any of this is related.

As a memory jogger, if the buzz test is accomplished, the IDM should be good?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 08:33 PM
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Check the wiring to your IPR and look to make sure the tin nut didn't come off the back of it. Like Ken said, the PCM is telling the IPR to max out but the oil pressure isn't climbing like it's supposed to.

Sometimes you can get lucky by removing and cleaning the IPR and throwing new o-rings on it. Sometimes you just need to replace it.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Thanks, I'll check a little more tomorrow. Any thoughts on the good buzz test = good IDM?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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You should also monitor vehicle power when cranking.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jsmahan
Thanks, I'll check a little more tomorrow. Any thoughts on the good buzz test = good IDM?
Most likely yes, if it will perform the buzz test, then that tells you the PCM is communicating with the IDM and the IDM is telling the injectors to fire.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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UPDATE: After getting it charged up, AE shows 11.3 volts, 138 rpm, 238 ICP PSI and 64.8 % ICP DC. Looks like ICP is bad from what I can tell. Going to order one of these and go from there.

(Note to self: put plug back in HPOP reservoir before cranking!)
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Sounds more like the IPR. Here is some info:

Originally posted by Dave (Golfer) on PSN 01-20-2010 Thanks Dave

its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.

I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.

If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...

I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...

any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jsmahan
UPDATE: After getting it charged up, AE shows 11.3 volts, 138 rpm, 238 ICP PSI and 64.8 % ICP DC. Looks like ICP is bad from what I can tell. Going to order one of these and go from there.

(Note to self: put plug back in HPOP reservoir before cranking!)
I am leaning more towards the IPR myself. If the ICP sensor was the problem, then the engine should start by unplugging the ICP sensor.

Since your ICP is leaking oil, then you might as well replace it anyway but I don't think that will cure your no start problem. My ICP was working fine even while leaking oil and it sounds like yours is working as well.

My $0.02...
 
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