Transmission Advice
Set up: 1954 F100,1977 Dodge Aspen clip, 1984 302, 3.03 trans side shifter with aftermarket floor shifter, Dana 44 rear end.
i was thinking about staying manual and have been looking at NP435 and T18 transmissions. Current set up does 60 mph at 2800 rpm and would like to keep my speed and lower the strain on the motor.
Truck is used for enjoyment only not a show truck. The truck had a 5 speed manual on the original 239 when I got it in 1989.Because of using the Aspen gear box my steering shaft does not have room for a on the column shifter and I want to stay away from the automatics
Had a 4 speed with over drive given to me years ago but it has a hydraulic clutch and the bell housing does not come off of the transmission. Still,use the original pedals so could not see how the hydraulic clutch would be able to work.
My apologies for the book, wanted to cover everything.
Thanks,
Will
Since you were considering T18, and somehow I ended up kinda a local trans expert I will throw out this whole big chart:
I researched this the winter of 2011 but the goal was to put a synchro trans behind a flathead not a 302 so definitely different but a bunch can be worked backwards/forwards to get to where you are headed.
I would recommend the M5OD-R2 but NOT the internal slave cylinder that was just a stupid dumb *** design choice by Ford. (they also did it on the little brother M5OD-R1 used in the Ranger, which I have one of) It requires you to drop the trans to do anything to the slave, and the slave is the weakest link - replace it every time you do a clutch or touch the trans, and they are made out of plastic. I'd either do an external slave conversion (there is a guy on youtube who shows you how to do it, and sells kits), convert it to a cable style (mustangs) or go for the T5, and since you have the SBF pattern look for a World Class T5 in a mustang - bolt right up.
With that SBF pattern the world is your oyster. My goal was to avoid cutting the crossmember, guessing you have the same issue since Ford didn't make trans super long till a bit later. The biggest issue I bet you will have is shifter setback, the T5 with the S10 style tailhousing moves it back 7" in a 1948 with a flathead, the M5OD-R2 would have been significantly further back.
here's the original thread for info gathering:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-progress.html
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I would look into how to make the hydraulic master work with the pedal you have as they do it for the brake system.
How do they work the clutch on large trucks, is it linkage or hydraulic?
I have a Ford World Class T5 (T5 WC) From a Mustang that had a 5.0 in a 70 AMC Javelin using an AMC bell housing that fits the AMC motor bolt pattern and no adapter as AMC used the T5 in it's small body cars, Hornet / Sprit / Eagle.
So you would just need to find a T5 and your bell may work without adapter. Only thing you would have to check on it the face to face distance and the trans input shaft to make sure the shaft is not too long or short to work with the bell housing you get.
The NP435 & T18 are a granny first gear good for getting heavy loads moving and 1:1 final 4th gear like your 3.03 has now so you dont gain anything for dropping the RPM at speed.
Also the NP435 & T18 are truck transmissions and shift like it, really slow and notchy.
I would not even look at any of the Ford 4sp OD transmission like the SROD and forget what the other is, 3sp where 4th is over drive, as they are weak and cant get parts for them.
Do a search in the late 70's and 80's truck area to see what others go thru with the SROD transmission.
I would look into the M5OD and work out the clutch problem. They came in 150 / 250 trucks up to the mid 90's with 302 / 351 SBF motors, the later ones do not have a opening for the speedo cable is all.
Sorry to say anything but another 3.03 will be floor shifted.
Dave ----
edit: the T5 of different makes put the shifter at different locations on the tail housing and is hard to swap housing as they have the speedo holes in different locations and you cant drill the output shaft for the speedo driven gear pin IIRC
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