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Transmission Advice

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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 04:08 AM
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Transmission Advice

My Ford 3.03 transmission is dying. So I was thinking of doing an upgrade instead of a rebuild.

Set up: 1954 F100,1977 Dodge Aspen clip, 1984 302, 3.03 trans side shifter with aftermarket floor shifter, Dana 44 rear end.

i was thinking about staying manual and have been looking at NP435 and T18 transmissions. Current set up does 60 mph at 2800 rpm and would like to keep my speed and lower the strain on the motor.

Truck is used for enjoyment only not a show truck. The truck had a 5 speed manual on the original 239 when I got it in 1989.Because of using the Aspen gear box my steering shaft does not have room for a on the column shifter and I want to stay away from the automatics

Had a 4 speed with over drive given to me years ago but it has a hydraulic clutch and the bell housing does not come off of the transmission. Still,use the original pedals so could not see how the hydraulic clutch would be able to work.


My apologies for the book, wanted to cover everything.

Thanks,
Will
 
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 05:05 AM
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Ford 4 speed OD has a separate bell. As do the Chrysler units which were also used by GM. They were made by NP. Check that 4 speed. If it's a Ford it could be a direct bolt in.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 07:42 AM
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I love my M5R2. 5 speed, with 5th OD, Integrated bellhousing and hydraulic clutch- have to have swing pedals though.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 85e150
Ford 4 speed OD has a separate bell. As do the Chrysler units which were also used by GM. They were made by NP. Check that 4 speed. If it's a Ford it could be a direct bolt in.
Worth a shot, I reached out to see if they can send me a photo of the transmission. I hope I missed the bel housing bolts.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers
I love my M5R2. 5 speed, with 5th OD, Integrated bellhousing and hydraulic clutch- have to have swing pedals though.
That would be nice but I have the original pedals and really like that setup.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 08:20 AM
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A t5 5 speed with the adapter plate will bolt to your 3.03 bellhousing and let you use the clutch linkage you have now.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 11:41 AM
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The 302 you have will want the "SBF" (small block ford) or "ford symmetric butterfly" bellhousing bolt pattern and behind that you can do any of a whole messload of transmissions, probably the 2nd most commonly supported by aftermarket behind the SBC (small block chevy) or "muncie 350" pattern.
Since you were considering T18, and somehow I ended up kinda a local trans expert I will throw out this whole big chart:






I researched this the winter of 2011 but the goal was to put a synchro trans behind a flathead not a 302 so definitely different but a bunch can be worked backwards/forwards to get to where you are headed.
I would recommend the M5OD-R2 but NOT the internal slave cylinder that was just a stupid dumb *** design choice by Ford. (they also did it on the little brother M5OD-R1 used in the Ranger, which I have one of) It requires you to drop the trans to do anything to the slave, and the slave is the weakest link - replace it every time you do a clutch or touch the trans, and they are made out of plastic. I'd either do an external slave conversion (there is a guy on youtube who shows you how to do it, and sells kits), convert it to a cable style (mustangs) or go for the T5, and since you have the SBF pattern look for a World Class T5 in a mustang - bolt right up.
With that SBF pattern the world is your oyster. My goal was to avoid cutting the crossmember, guessing you have the same issue since Ford didn't make trans super long till a bit later. The biggest issue I bet you will have is shifter setback, the T5 with the S10 style tailhousing moves it back 7" in a 1948 with a flathead, the M5OD-R2 would have been significantly further back.


here's the original thread for info gathering:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-progress.html
 
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers
I love my M5R2. 5 speed, with 5th OD, Integrated bellhousing and hydraulic clutch- have to have swing pedals though.
I was going to say look into a M5OD used in the 87> trucks but they have hydraulic clutch and see that could be a problem.
I would look into how to make the hydraulic master work with the pedal you have as they do it for the brake system.
How do they work the clutch on large trucks, is it linkage or hydraulic?

Originally Posted by Last chance 53
A t5 5 speed with the adapter plate will bolt to your 3.03 bellhousing and let you use the clutch linkage you have now.
The Ford / Chevy / AMC T5's have removeable bell housings at least the early ones did.
I have a Ford World Class T5 (T5 WC) From a Mustang that had a 5.0 in a 70 AMC Javelin using an AMC bell housing that fits the AMC motor bolt pattern and no adapter as AMC used the T5 in it's small body cars, Hornet / Sprit / Eagle.
So you would just need to find a T5 and your bell may work without adapter. Only thing you would have to check on it the face to face distance and the trans input shaft to make sure the shaft is not too long or short to work with the bell housing you get.

The NP435 & T18 are a granny first gear good for getting heavy loads moving and 1:1 final 4th gear like your 3.03 has now so you dont gain anything for dropping the RPM at speed.
Also the NP435 & T18 are truck transmissions and shift like it, really slow and notchy.

I would not even look at any of the Ford 4sp OD transmission like the SROD and forget what the other is, 3sp where 4th is over drive, as they are weak and cant get parts for them.
Do a search in the late 70's and 80's truck area to see what others go thru with the SROD transmission.

I would look into the M5OD and work out the clutch problem. They came in 150 / 250 trucks up to the mid 90's with 302 / 351 SBF motors, the later ones do not have a opening for the speedo cable is all.
Sorry to say anything but another 3.03 will be floor shifted.
Dave ----

edit: the T5 of different makes put the shifter at different locations on the tail housing and is hard to swap housing as they have the speedo holes in different locations and you cant drill the output shaft for the speedo driven gear pin IIRC
 
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