Be done with wasting your time, chasing your tail and hitting that same wall over and over.

Some guys swear by their OEM heat exchanger and they're great, UNTIL THEY'RE NOT

For around 3k (or less) you get their HD air to oil cooler and the fan clutch/adapter setup, a little more if you want the engine oil t/stat which I did not get.

Install took me a few days including disassembly, and I took my time. Get rid of the OEM oil filter and move to the larger truck filter setup that sits within the left front wheel well.

Your tail chasing days are over in regards to the oil temp debacle you're going through.

PM me if you need more details

 

The (2006) PCED manual states that the engine will begin to de-fuel at 253*F oil temperature. Not sure how noticeable it is at first though.

AND, the de-fueling may be for later year models only - I could never get that 100% confirmed for '03 and '04.

 

Have you checked the oil cooler bypass valve? I believe you can pull the filter and take it out thru the top of the filter housing. Simple thing to check.

 

I will look into this, this week. What goes bad? The spring?

 

Full Coolant flush with block plugs pulled and oil cooler number 3 installed in the last 10k miles. And we still have 250* oil temps. I might wrap this thing around a tree on the way to work tomorrow. What a miserable time

 

I think the choice is clear.

 

this truck is sucking me dry joe. Another 3k for the bpd upgrade and im sure it will still manage to run like **** lol. Im losing patience lol. Cant even take my boat to the lake because this thing just gets too hot if I drive fater than like 50mph

 

Sorry for your troubles for sure!

Your situation is why I put the thread together on "How to buy a used 6.0L". A buyer simply MUST get educated, and then assess a half dozen (or so) critical parameters before even making an offer on a used 6.0L. Assessing the coolant system and the health of the oil cooler is one of the very first things that must be done. This is because the cooling system is where most owners make the most mistakes, and mistakes in engine cooling almost always becomes very costly to rectify. Another one is fuel pressure and injector health (injectors are expensive). There are more, but to complete the "big three", evaluating fluid filtration (oil, fuel, air) is critical. I wouldn't buy a used 6.0L that had an aftermarket oil filter on it!

Unfortunately, finding these forums (and NOT Facebook) seems to mostly occur after the vehicle purchase has been made. Even when/if people find the forum before buying the vehicle, most of them simply can not be convinced of the fact that a scan tool and a test drive (maybe even more than one test drive) is a REQUIREMENT (around $100 investment) before making an offer/purchase.

It is hard for me to imagine that in this day-and-age, the forums aren't being used at (near) 100% to learn of a specific vehicles flaws and weak points before buying.

 

That is terrible and I hate to see good people battle with their trucks like this.

It sounds like you've done your due diligence for sure. If you have done everything, which is sounds like you have, taking the next step of ridding the engine of the problem is sure to solve your issue.

Expensive? Absolutely, but if you plan on keeping the truck and using it for towing on a daily basis you're better parking it and saving up for the kit.

I promise you will not regret it.

Good Luck

 

Sounds like the original seller lied, mis-represented, and withheld information. Sad there are people like that, but it is probably very common.

If you do anything with the oil cooler, you also need to find out about the EGR cooler. In other words, determine if it is it still active or not. As stated earlier, a really clean EGR valve isn't necessarily a good thing.

 

would you happen to know, if the egr cooler is not welded shut. But the egr valve is tuned out. Would that give me issues?

 

No. I've run with the EGR valve shut for a long time without oil temps being high.

 

You could still have issues. A small leak in the EGR cooler could result in coolant getting back into the intake because even when tuned out, the EGR valve can open up some.

 

Did you ever check the oil cooler bypass valve? I've not taken mine apart, but I believe it's as simple as remove (2) screws at the bottom of the oil filter housing and remove/check the valve. Make sure the spring isn't broken and the valve itself is intact, etc.

If you look in the 6.0 bible they have a picture showing what is what in the oil filter housing. Sorry, my work firewall won't let me post or see images or I'd show it to you.

 

Does the egr cooler happen to sit right above the passenger exhaust manifold by some degree? Was taking a peek at lunch today and noticed some white droplet stains on it.