250* oil temps.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2025
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Likes: 8
Well, I swapped the sensors and grounded the blue wire for the fan. Drove about 15 miles to the gas station. Fan was still spinning at 400 rpm. Never heard it kick on. On the drive back truck got up to 240 before I let off. Coolant temps stayed around 194-196 for the entire 30ish mile drive.
Side note. I also pulled the egr valve and it was incredibly clean. Not sure if the shop cleaned it the other day. But it had no carbon buildup on it.
Im not ruling out a clogged cooler. And im not master mechanic by any means. But logically it doesn't sit right with me that the FIRST drive after a "flush" and cooler replacement and temps were sky high. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I have been reading that "egr delete" tunes can sometimes mess withe fan/cooling system. I just had a set of 155/30s put in and I will be flashing the tunes for those soon. Im not sure if the cornball who owned this truck before me threw some dog crap tune on here or not.
Side note. I also pulled the egr valve and it was incredibly clean. Not sure if the shop cleaned it the other day. But it had no carbon buildup on it.
Im not ruling out a clogged cooler. And im not master mechanic by any means. But logically it doesn't sit right with me that the FIRST drive after a "flush" and cooler replacement and temps were sky high. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I have been reading that "egr delete" tunes can sometimes mess withe fan/cooling system. I just had a set of 155/30s put in and I will be flashing the tunes for those soon. Im not sure if the cornball who owned this truck before me threw some dog crap tune on here or not.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2025
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Likes: 8
I haven't got a clue if the egr is deleted. Previous owner blocked me after the sale. Is there any visual inspection or FORscan data i can pull to confirm or deny?
Last edited by Molly4lyfe; Jun 15, 2025 at 02:59 PM. Reason: Typo
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
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From: Jersey Shore
The radiator has been shown to be less effective than the original equipment (OE) radiator.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
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Even if you verify that you still have an EGR cooler, you won't know if it is or isn't welded in both ends, and no PID monitoring the EGR flow.
One thing to get specific on ...... Jack mentioned it, but Mishimoto radiators don't cool as well as OEM (at least that is the opinion of some of us).
After many years of involvement w/ this engine and the forums, it is quite clear that the EC-1 ELC coolant is a superior choice. Clearly some people have made the Ford Gold coolant work, but it must be flushed out every 45k miles and a number of things must all work right to avoid problems (ie solids coming out of solution and plugging the oil cooler). You can not overheat the coolant (and internal engine temps can get quite hot), you can not expose it to ANY exhaust gasses (even small EGR cooler leaks will be an issue), and you can not mix it with other coolants (maybe even block heater operation plays a part). It is just not worth the aggravation and risk ...... when EC- rated ELC coolant does not require this stringent of a life!
One thing to get specific on ...... Jack mentioned it, but Mishimoto radiators don't cool as well as OEM (at least that is the opinion of some of us).
After many years of involvement w/ this engine and the forums, it is quite clear that the EC-1 ELC coolant is a superior choice. Clearly some people have made the Ford Gold coolant work, but it must be flushed out every 45k miles and a number of things must all work right to avoid problems (ie solids coming out of solution and plugging the oil cooler). You can not overheat the coolant (and internal engine temps can get quite hot), you can not expose it to ANY exhaust gasses (even small EGR cooler leaks will be an issue), and you can not mix it with other coolants (maybe even block heater operation plays a part). It is just not worth the aggravation and risk ...... when EC- rated ELC coolant does not require this stringent of a life!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
Likes: 3,617
As far as the OEM oil cooler goes, I installed the upgraded OEM one soon after it came out (the one with the extra coolant row). At that time I also switched to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant (Rotella Ultra ELC). 250k total miles and still have great temperature differentials, and no coolant related problems. I have yet to see a person clog an oil cooler when running this ELC coolant (assuming it wasn't clogged to begin with or already on its way to get clogged.
The BPD remote located oil coolers are great and the air-to-oil cooler is also great. They are expensive and I wanted to see what service life I got with this configuration. So far, it has been excellent.
The BPD remote located oil coolers are great and the air-to-oil cooler is also great. They are expensive and I wanted to see what service life I got with this configuration. So far, it has been excellent.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,114
From: Jersey Shore
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 28
Likes: 8
As far as the OEM oil cooler goes, I installed the upgraded OEM one soon after it came out (the one with the extra coolant row). At that time I also switched to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant (Rotella Ultra ELC). 250k total miles and still have great temperature differentials, and no coolant related problems. I have yet to see a person clog an oil cooler when running this ELC coolant (assuming it wasn't clogged to begin with or already on its way to get clogged.
The BPD remote located oil coolers are great and the air-to-oil cooler is also great. They are expensive and I wanted to see what service life I got with this configuration. So far, it has been excellent.
The BPD remote located oil coolers are great and the air-to-oil cooler is also great. They are expensive and I wanted to see what service life I got with this configuration. So far, it has been excellent.
Even if you verify that you still have an EGR cooler, you won't know if it is or isn't welded in both ends, and no PID monitoring the EGR flow.
One thing to get specific on ...... Jack mentioned it, but Mishimoto radiators don't cool as well as OEM (at least that is the opinion of some of us).
After many years of involvement w/ this engine and the forums, it is quite clear that the EC-1 ELC coolant is a superior choice. Clearly some people have made the Ford Gold coolant work, but it must be flushed out every 45k miles and a number of things must all work right to avoid problems (ie solids coming out of solution and plugging the oil cooler). You can not overheat the coolant (and internal engine temps can get quite hot), you can not expose it to ANY exhaust gasses (even small EGR cooler leaks will be an issue), and you can not mix it with other coolants (maybe even block heater operation plays a part). It is just not worth the aggravation and risk ...... when EC- rated ELC coolant does not require this stringent of a life!
One thing to get specific on ...... Jack mentioned it, but Mishimoto radiators don't cool as well as OEM (at least that is the opinion of some of us).
After many years of involvement w/ this engine and the forums, it is quite clear that the EC-1 ELC coolant is a superior choice. Clearly some people have made the Ford Gold coolant work, but it must be flushed out every 45k miles and a number of things must all work right to avoid problems (ie solids coming out of solution and plugging the oil cooler). You can not overheat the coolant (and internal engine temps can get quite hot), you can not expose it to ANY exhaust gasses (even small EGR cooler leaks will be an issue), and you can not mix it with other coolants (maybe even block heater operation plays a part). It is just not worth the aggravation and risk ...... when EC- rated ELC coolant does not require this stringent of a life!
Side note. These are about 100 times easier to work on than my old duramax. I've been working alot of 60 hour weeks so bringing it to a shop just made sense to me. But after being in the engine bay for an hour or 2 this morning I kind of regret it.
Also, iN regards to the fan not not spinning at a high rpm even when grounded. Could the fan clutch be the issue with that? Or does that sound more like a wiring issue?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
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From: West by God Virginyuh
I believe he installed a Mishimoto oil cooler, not radiator
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 161
From: West by God Virginyuh
And yep…if they didn’t do a proper flush (either at the first shop or the one you took it to) it’s quite possible it clogged the cooler again. It took me a day and a half to flush mine. And the coolant that came out after the VC-9 and Restore cycles was absolutely disgusting.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 28
Likes: 8
I know the fan not ramping up is an issue, but that would be a coolant temp issue vs an oil temp issue. If the coolant is at 200…and flowing through the oil cooler…the oil shouldn’t get to 240-250.
And yep…if they didn’t do a proper flush (either at the first shop or the one you took it to) it’s quite possible it clogged the cooler again. It took me a day and a half to flush mine. And the coolant that came out after the VC-9 and Restore cycles was absolutely disgusting.
And yep…if they didn’t do a proper flush (either at the first shop or the one you took it to) it’s quite possible it clogged the cooler again. It took me a day and a half to flush mine. And the coolant that came out after the VC-9 and Restore cycles was absolutely disgusting.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,532
Likes: 495
From: NC
The only time my oil temps got to 245 and coolant 235 on a long desert pull with trailer in tow my cooling fan was a jet engine, fan speed sensor was maxed out,. All temps dropped to normal once I crested the pass.
At 250 shouldn't the truck be defueling?
At 250 shouldn't the truck be defueling?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 28
Likes: 8
Coolant never gets above 202. I did not notice any defueling when i was at 253.