Exactly! And I would add for anyone new to RV towing, the RV dealer is usually the worst place for advice on the proper setup. At best they will look up the tow ratings (GCWR) for your vehicle and say as long as you buy an RV that weighs less than that you are good to go. No consideration of passengers, payload, tongue weight, weight distribution or anything else. At worst, which I’ve found is usually the case, thy won’t even consider GCWR and will tell you that your vehicle will have no trouble hauling a certain RV. The very first camper I bought relying way too much on the dealer, and quickly learned my Expedition was not safe hauling it. I learned my lesson with that experience.

 

I disagree with your counterpoint. I stand by my comment that a properly designed and loaded trailer (travel trailer or not) should not have sway issues AND that not every tow vehicle requires either a weight distribution hitch OR any additional sway control measures. With my 176" wheelbase, heavy diesel truck and dual rear wheels along with my well designed and balanced ORV trailer (which is a very small load for my truck) I neither benefit from using a WD hitch, nor do I require any additional sway control. I've towed with this setup from Canada to Arizona and back in every possible weather and road condition possible and I'm 100% convinced. That said and as I previously mentioned my setup is, while not unique, certainly overkill as far as the TV is concerned......many, perhaps even most, RV trailer/truck combos would benefit from both WD and additional sway control.

You're right about the factory sway control being reactive; it hasn't ever engaged on my truck.....a testament to not having any sway issues.


Cheers,
Dave

 

I'm glad that you put that qualification in there. There is nothing that you can do about the trailer's design, except buy a different trailer. However, to get a properly loaded trailer, you have to load it up AND WEIGH IT! Not just once, but periodically as your load changes over time. How many of us are willing to do that? I bet that it is less than 1%. The next best thing is to use proactive sway control.

 

Some have talked about using a CAT scale to weigh the pickup and trailer.
Since I have never used a scale like this before. How is it done? Do you weigh the pickup with the added payload and then weigh the trailer (including items for camping, etc)?
Once you get the results then what?

 

1. Weigh the rig ready to tow/camp/work, with the weight distribution hitch hooked up if you use one. Get separate weights on the front axle, rear axle, combined trailer axles.
2. (If not using a weight distribution hitch, skip this step) Unhook the tension bars of the weight distribution hitch and get the same weights.
3. Park the trailer somewhere and get the front and rear axle weights of the truck alone, with no trailer hooked up.

From those numbers, you can get the true tongue weight of the trailer and the amount of weight restored to the truck's front axle by the weight distribution hitch. You can also calculate the percentage of your trailer's tongue weight.

 

I'll disagree you added 200 lbs of Payload to the bed of the truck, not on the hitch itself (even if it's right at the tailgate ) and it's proper or improper loading will possibly affect the height of the ball (not likely 200lbs will make a difference if added to a 1 ton at the last minute). Your WDH should still be configured correctly for your trailer & it's payload

 

If you have never used a truck scale like the CAT scales it’s good for you to ask.
The scale will have at least 3 scale pads, the forward one will be for the steer axle, the second is for the drive axle and the third is for the trailer axles. Try to spot your tires on the center-ish of the pads and stay away from the edges.
CAT now has an app for use of their scales, which I have not used yet. I still use the original method of pulling into the scales and then pressing the call button for the scale operator inside the store. When they answer I tell them I’m a private party weigh and give them a reference name like “Tom’s RV”, they will reply that they have your weight. Then pull off the scales and circle around to the rear of the line, if there is one. If no others are waiting to use the scale you could quickly release the tension on your WD hitch and then request your second set of weights. After the operator says they have that weight then drive off and Park in the truck lot to drop your trailer, the proceed back onto the scales for your truck only weights. After all three sets of weights are finished you can go into the store to pay and get your weight slips, the whole process should take less than 30 minutes (if there is no other traffic over the scales) and cost you about $20.
If you have any questions about the scale results once you get them stop back in here to ask and we can help explain what the various weights actually show and how to calculate the exact tongue weight and amount of weight being transferred by the WD hitch.

What he said!